Trans_AM_88

has anyone ever heard of Powerhouse? they make engine kits among other things. here is their site: http://www.enginekits.com/catalog.pdf

they have a 383 stroker kit (2 pc seal) for $669 that i was looking at.

it includes:

Powerhouse flat top stroker pistons
Pro Street style rings
Pro Street cr1 5.7 connecting rods
main and rod bearings
full gasket set
new balancer
new flexplate
*balanced*

what do you guys think? is this kit any good and does this kit work with a stock L98 (carb'd)?

Stekman

For a 100 or so more, you can get a balanced kit off Ebay. Same parts (crank, rods, pistons, bearings, balancer, flexplate). But, they use Eagle and KB components. Ive never heard of those parts in the catalog you posted. Granted im pretty young and dont know all the various companies, but, i do know that in this world, you get what you pay for.

And the rotating assembly has very little to do with the top end choice. Heads, cam, intake, carb, whatever.

Trans_AM_88

this kit is balanced at that price ($669)

Trans_AM_88

how about Samperformance?

http://www.samperformance.com/Mercha...egory_Code=CSK

Silvolite Claimer Pistons H3426
Hastings Moly Rings 2M139
Clevite 77 Rod Bearings CB663P
Clevite 77 Main Bearings MS909P
Melling High Volume Oil Pump M55
PBM Gasket Kit 92600
PBM Camshaft 10042 290/300 222/231 .468 .480 110 Lobe
PBM Lifters HA817
Durabond Cam Bearings CH8
Pioneer Brass Expansion Plugs PE100BR
PBM Dual Row Timing 700
PBM Hydraulic Valve Springs 3000
PBM Chrome Moly Retainers 501S
PBM 7deg HD Keepers 205
Scat Crankshaft 3.750 Stroke 2 Piece Seal 5.7 Rod

i really dont know anything about rotating assembly parts manufacturers so i dont know if Silvolite Claimer Pistons or Scat Crankshafts etc...are good.

Trans_AM_88

well, setting kits aside...i have around $1000 to build up my engine. right now i have an L98 bone stock (except its carbureted)

i like the thought of a 383...but i know its not that streetable. but my cars in the past have had horrible gas milage anyway (4-8mpg), so i wouldnt really notice. i either see a 383 or some new heads and valvetrain or a super charger. i would do a s/c BUT i'd need a new 4" cowl hood with the weiand 142 (which just adds to the cost)


anyway, with about a grand or so to work with, whats a good way to spend it on the engine?

ljnowell

Whats not streetable about a 383?

RB83L69

Keep it in your pocket and keep putting more in your fund until you have about $1500 more than that.

The parts you order in that lump are just the bare beginnings of a motor. You still need a new cam, heads, fluids, all the usual might-as-well items like water pump and so on, any unexpected things you find broken, head work, cam, ignition parts, cherry picker rental, cam, head work, block machine works such as boring, hooning, decking, clean-up, clearance grinding, etc. ....

Oh, and did I mention the 2 things in addititon to cubic inches that make an engine run better than stock... head work or replacement, and a new cam?

I strongly recommend against taking your 1 large and ordering that kit and disabling your daily driver (if that's what it is), because you'll find yourself riding the bus for a while, and then most probably putting something back together that's far less than what you hallucinate you're going to end up with, just to get the car back on the road.

Trans_AM_88

interesting....i didnt actually realize how much work there was actually involved.

well then...back to what i said before

MasterEvilAce

... my question exactly.

Also, what's the average gas mileage on a 383? and what kinda torque / HP can you expect from a "Decent" engine, i suppose?

in comparison to a 350...

ljnowell

Gas mileage ad torque are all relative to the specific engine that is being built. I've seen some 383's that get a lot better gas mileage than any 305 or 350, and vice versa. It all comes down to heads, cam, and carb, or induction system. But anywho, if gas mileage is a concern, I wouldnt build anything hipo, I would just stick with a stock motor.

Trans_AM_88

ok guys i didnt mean to make it sound like gas milage was my main concer here...it definatly is NOT. i really dont care what it is...

but again,

i definatly see that a 383 is way out of my reach. at my very maximum i'd have about $1500.

the weiand 142 s/c kit is within that price range, BUT theres no way i can have a 4" cowl hood. it's just too much. so what else is there to do? new heads/cam/maybe some valve train? i really really do not want to have the machine the block in any sort of way...this is my daily driver and i cant take not having no car (mainly id dont have time to pull the engine). so a 383 and machining the block is out of the question.

can i slap on heads with a matching cam shaft? this motor only has 18k miles on it so the parts should still be strong i hope. what do you guys think?

ljnowell

I would spend the money on heads and induction. If you already have a reasonably strong engine that is. If your engine is in good shape, it WILL benefit from a better set of heads. However, that doesnt mean that you need to spend 800 bucks on them either. Sometimes you can pick up a set of heads for as little as 25 bucks. Take em to a machine shop and have em done. In my area you would be looking at around 400 bucks to do something like that. Also there is a company called aerohead, they are based in indianapolis. They sell some really decent heads for 359 a pair in Chevy Hi performance. I ordered some and they ended up running 423 with tax and shipping, and they were there the next day. These were 60cc 434 castings that are hogged out to 65cc. THey put 2.02 1.60 stainless valves, can put whatever size lift up to .525 springs for you for no charge. Screw in studs are also standard on these heads for that price. With a little at home portwork, they perform pretty well. IF you went that route you could still stick another 500 into Cam, intake, etc. Thats what I would do.

ljnowell

Sorry, almost forgot, as for the 383, There is a lot of money involved with machine work. I was able to purchase a rebuilt short block for what the machine work alone would have cost me for a 383. In my area, for a bore, hone, flux, hottank and 383 clearencing it runs around 450 dollars, I bought an assembled short block for 500.

Trans_AM_88

ljnowell, thanks for the advice (by the way i edited my post ...i dunno if you saw it heh)

anyway....im not too up on heads and related equipment so i dont think i'd be able to choose my own specific parts..i can see that there is a lot of specs that have to be looked at. and also, all i have is a stock L98 that is carbed. are there any parts in the l98 that would be bottle necking if i put on some heads and a cam?

ljnowell

Well, As far as a bottleneck, If you were to replace cam, heads, intake, and carb, there isnt much room for a bottleneck. Basically, the only thing that you are going to leave "stock" is the rotating assembly, and as long as it is solid it is good. I wouldnt expect ot be doing very much 6500 RPM revving on a stock rotating assembly. Beware of the hidden costs though. Gasket sets, sealer, timing set, etc. They all add up. I dont see why though, with 1k-1500 you cant pull off a buildup. good luck man.

Trans_AM_88

thanks man. but i really dont know what to get...i'm looking for a nice kick in power. pushing 250 - 300 horse at the wheels will definatly satisfy me

right now i have a holly double pumper 750cfm mech secondary carb so i should be good there. but can you guys shoot me in a good direction as in what to get? heads/cam wise. i'll most likely have a shop do it so i dont want to spend too much more that about $800 on parts cuz i know labor will cost


edit: sorry i guess it would make it easier if i would give you guys some more specs on my car

ok...

stock L98 carb'd. 750cfm holly double pump mech sec.
edel performer intake

t-5 tranny

10 bolt BW 2.77 rear (it will be changed to 3.73's most likely)

ljnowell

open up any month of Chevy Hi Performance and look in the back where the ads are. You'll find the advertisement for Aerohead. THey have small block chevy heads as stated above. Order the 65CC heads, you can get guideplates if thats your thing. As far as a cam, thats a whole nother story. I think that the Comp Cams Magnum Cams are nice. So are the extreme energy cams. Look for something with around .500 lift and 230-240 duration (at .050). YOu'll need various other parts, but these are the big ones. Thats just my recommendation, I bet it'll get you where you want to be. Maybe even have a little money left over

MasterEvilAce

a little offtopic.. but .. i have a 350 TPI.. i guess doing a 383 is a hell of a lot of money..

what if i went with a 355... would i have to change the crankshaft, pistons and such, or not? how much would a rebuild kit be for a 355, machine work to the block, new heads, and machine work to the TPI plenum, throttlebody, and such be?

Is it also easy to get atleast 20mpg, and 300 hp/tq to the wheels, without spending a crap load? Also, would stock heads be enough for 20mpg 300 hp/tq?

has anyone already done this?

Trans_AM_88

what are guide plates? and does aerohead have a site? i'd like to look at their stuff. and how come you got the 60cc heads? how did you figure that out

ljnowell

many people put guideplates on heads to help keep pushrods aligned, etc. I have seen many 400-450 horse motors without. My current engine is going without. No big deal really. THe casting on my heads is a 434. When you check this it is a 60cc. After final machine work it comes out to a 65CC chamber. Gives a nice boost to compression. If i would have went with the 76CC heads, i would have had a lower compression ratio, and well basically a stock head with bigger valves. IT would have outperformed a stock head but not by a whole lot. With the right compression ratio, cam, and intake match you can make a whole lot of power for not a lot of $$$. I cant find the website for aerohead right now but the phone number is 317-862-0223. Give em a call.

Stekman

Dont jump the gun. Picking a cam is a lot more in depth than "oh a lot of duration with decent lift should be good." Lift and duration dont mean anything if your heads wont support it. Or your compression ratio is too low. Youve got a manual, so you dont need to worry about stall speeds. Decide this: How much money can i spend on the valve train ALONE? Where do i want my powerband to be? How important is streetability? Decide all of that, and THEN pick a cam to suit your needs. When it DOES come down to picking a cam, i would suggest an Xtreme Energy over a Magnum grind. Magnum grinds are a bit more dated than the XE series. The XE series use more aggressive ramp rates. I also think that for SBC heads, the dual pattern design is very beneficial.

Do you want hydra. flat tappet? Hyrda. roller? How about either of those in a solid form, rather than hydraulic?

ljnowell

stekman- I agree entirely, that is why i recomended what Idid. This is very similar to an engine that I had built before. It performed very well. Lets not start arguments about cams, because everyone has a different opinion.

Stekman

No fights intended. I apologize if thats how it came accross. It was not inteded as such. Im merely pointing out that picking out a cam is more in depth than just picking figures. Im also working at the fact that while one cam may work for one person, it may not as well for another.

Lets let him answer a few of the questions, then we can recommend a cam

ljnowell

Sounds good to me. Id like to know more about what he is expecting out of the engine too.

Trans_AM_88

ok guys here's the scoop. yep, i have a manual. im planning for 3.73's in the rear, so i guess im shooting for a mid to high rpm range for the cam, right? say up to 5000rpm? i dont know why, but i just dont like revving my engine any higher than that. streetability? anything above 5-6mpg is ok for me. i also need this thing to run in the winter since its my daily driver. so lets say i want it to run at 20F which is the lowest ill drive in my car on a cold *** day here in NJ. what else is streetability?

im looking for a nice kick in power. right now im probably pushing like 180 at the wheels (stock L98 that's carbed and a manual 5 speed) so if i could hit 250rwhp that would be nice. this aint no race car or anything, but i'll definatly be taking it to the track this summer. so 13's would be sweet (i know E/T's depend on a LOT more than just heads and a cam though) hmmm what else? a nice lopey exhaust sound would be cool, and chirping 3rd too

Clemson327

iTrader: (4)

I have a cam you might like Trans_Am. It is a Comp Cams 280H (Magnum grind) cam and lifter set. It will give you a nice lopey idle and has an operating range from 2000-6000. I can't think of many cams that have an rpm range only up to 5000 (which I think you said was your max?) that will also have a lopey idle. You will have to get something that has a larger rpm range. What does everybody else think about this cam for his setup? If you are interested shoot me an email. I bought it to build a 350 but then decided to build a 400 so I'm not using it. A new set of heads that flows better than stock should be ok for a single pattern cam.

Adam

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

For the $1000 (going back to what RB has already said):

Forget the cam. I see cast iron exaust manifold logs in the pic. Hooker 2055 headers (Summit HOK-2055) - $360.

I don't like the supplied Hooker gaskets, so FelPro (Summit FPP-1404), $15.

Assuming you need a cat, Catco (Summit CTO-9118) direct-fit cat, $117.

3.73 gears: RMG-4900071 (2-series), $194.

Gear install kit: RMG-8310161, $90.

Labor for gear install: $150.

2 quarts AMSOIL 75W-90 Series 2000 Gear Lube (no posi additive needed): $20.

The left-over $30 or so (remember shipping & handling) you can use for pizza delivery while you're installing the headers.

Trans_AM_88

so what are you saying five7kid, forget about heads?

with about $1500 i was planning on getting hedman shorties and a custom y-pipe with no cat (should be under $300 installed). i planned on putting aside $400 for the gear change. and then the rest for the engine...about $800 - $900 (i know that's more than $1500 but by the time i do this stuff ill have a bit more saved up)

ME Leigh

You L98 heads are better then anything you will get from Aerohead. Its just idiotic to me to pay money to get worse stuff. I agree though replace all of the exaust first. Then if you have money spend it on a comp Xe268.

Trans_AM_88

oh really?...so do you think 250rwhp+ is possible with a stock L98 that is carbed with only exhaust and a camshaft? and now, what should i be looking for with the cam?

Trans_AM_88

so what do you guys think...will the 268 comp cam, free flowing exhaust and 3.73's get my close to 250 rwhp?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

Don't forget about heads, improve what you've got.

With 1.5:1 rockers a XE264HR cam will have .487"/.495" lift at the valves. That's too much for stock valves and press-in rocker studs.

Pull the heads, do a basic porting job on them (at least bowls and gasket match), machine the spring pockets for 986 springs (and the guides for positive type seals while you're at it), replace the studs with screw-in.

Now you're ready for the cam. The upgraded exhaust will support the package and get you the power (the gears don't affect RWHP).

ljnowell

I dotn see the stock l98 head being a better head than the ones from aerohead, but hey, whatever you think is fine with me. I know what I think is idiotic.

Trans_AM_88

i dunno...im really not sure if i'd be interested in pulling the heads. i've realised that since this is my daily driver, i cant have it out of operation for that long. that, and half of what five7kid just said i dont know exactly what he's taking about. are you suggesting i do porting work myself? i thought you needed special tools for that

ME Leigh

Exaust is a must so do that first, no matter what. The Aeroheads heads are nothing special just stock "crap" smog heads with a little work done to them. You could get the same thing from any machine shop for the same price.

ME Leigh

Then do gears, it will make the car feel fast as ****.

ME Leigh

Yes the GM Goodwrench replacement 350 is rated at 250hp and it is crap. Crap cam, crap heads, crap compression. Your L98 with a Xe268 would kill it.


Engine Name: 350 LM1
Horsepower: 249 HP @ 5,000 RPM
Torque: 304 Ft/Lbs @ 3,500 RPM
Compression Ratio: 8.50 to 1
Block: 4 – Bolt, 2 Piece Rear Seal, 4.000” Bore
Crankshaft: Cast Nodular 3.480” Stroke
Heads: Cast Iron, 76cc
Valves: 1.940” / 1.500”
Camshaft lift: 0.390” / 0.410” Hydraulic
Duration @ 0.050”: 195° / 202°
Intake: Not Included

Trans_AM_88

ok so straight up....with a full, free flowing exhaust system (no cat) the comp Xe268 cam (EVERYTHING else stock in the L98) and 3.73 gears in the rear, and i will *probably* pushing 250rwhp? i will also tune the carb again after the cam and exhaust install of course...

in any case, this should be a decently nice setup right?



edit:

i found a 268h comp cam kit that comes with lifters too for $170.00. or i could just get the cam for $93.99. is the kit worth it?

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

First, I'd stay with a roller cam like your engine has now. More expensive, but you reuse your current lifters. If you go with a older-school flat-tappet cam, you need new pushrods, too.

Second, putting in that big of a cam with unmodified heads is a receipe for disaster. You've got to do something about the springs, check guide-to-retainer clearance, and, unless you like pulling valve covers regularly, replace the pull-out (aka: press-in) rocker studs.

ljnowell

Which would be the reason I made the IDIOTIC suggestion of a cheap set of cast heads that already have these changes made. Of course some people know it all.........(not directed at you five7)

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

I don't have the mag with one of their ads in front of me, but as I recall the changes are add-on upgrades. Also, you need to make sure you get 083 castings and not 882's or one of their smog/swirl-port cousins.

ljnowell

the add is for 359 dollars, you get 434 castings, 65cc (after machine work) with valve size of your choice, up to 2.02 1.60, they come standard with screw in studs and any size springs you want up to .525 lift. They also come with stainless one piece valves. I run a set on my engine, and they rn GREAT. I find it hard to believe that the stock heads are gonna out perform them, but I dont like to argue, know what i mean?

ljnowell

ME Leigh, you should investigate before you offer advice. You can buy some stock replacement heads from Aerohead, and they will be less than good performers, however, I think you jsut like to have something to attack. Aerohead has a full line of Cylinder heads. I guess because aerohead sells Dart heads, these are crap too. This is the reason why people have problems building engines. Trans_AM_88, take care when taking advice on these pages. Many of the people here have absolutely no idea what they are talking about, just plain talking out of thier ***.

pre

What I would do is get
cowl hood $400
aircleaner$40
Comp roller cam XR264 110 lobe $240
headers and y pipe $300
cat back $300
aluminum roller rocker arms $200

This is around $1500 but you will need more money for other small parts, stuff for the tune up after, and shipping. If you are going to spend all that money for power you gotta get better air induction than that ri ce cake sitting on your carb.

five7kid

iTrader: (14)

ljnowell: "434 castings" - as in, "354434.....75-79...262/267/305...60cc chambers"?

I've seen Aerohead's ads, considered them 3 years ago before going with the Worlds, have seen people ask about them here, but don't recall anyone who'd actually used them until now. (Finally found their website www.aeroheadracing.com )

pre: "Comp roller cam XR264 110 lobe" - again, too much cam for unmodified stock heads.

ljnowell

yep, that would be the same head. After final machining they come in at 65CC. No problems out em, good Comp ratio. If anyone asks I'll recommend them.

Trans_AM_88

five7kid, are you and ljnowell on the same page now? Are you both leaning towards the aeroheads?

From what I understand right now...I can use my stock L98 heads but I’d have to do a lot of machining to get the valve components to work properly and safely. By using the aeroheads, ill have a lot less machining to do (but still some?) and they flow better. Correct?

But honestly, I'm really confused now . I realize that when you get in depth to parts like heads, cams, and valve train components that there are many personal opinions. It would seem that the choice could be simple if you just look at the numbers, but it just isn’t. The downside is that I don’t have my own educated opinions about these things because I lack the experience. So basically what I’m trying to say is that all I have is the opinions on this board. Either that, or I just go to a local shop and tell them what I am looking for (but we all know that it’s so hard to find a shop that you can really trust).

Anyway, I think I have to set a budget here: $1000 for parts, and $500 for labor. I can’t do this work fast enough on my own time. I won’t include the rear end gears into the budget though, so that frees up some cash (but I know I really need to do them anyway)

ME Leigh

Ok dude, all i am saying is that if you want to spend money on crappy smog heads go ahead. They flowed crap stock and with there awesome stage 1 port job( blending the seats) and bigger valves, they should flow about the same. Or about as good a stock L98 head.

I wouldn't ever pay money for work on stock heads, or worked stock heads, especially smog heads! That is if i was going for performance and the most bang for the buck.

ME Leigh

I have to admit that $359 bucks for a set of heads is a pretty good deal. That is if your not looking for a performance increase, just a new replacement head.

ME Leigh

You shouldn't need any machine work. You just need to upgrade and replace the valve springs to accept the higher lift cam.