smnitWS6TA

Just wondering what u guys think the best oil is? I have always used Castrol GTX and had no problems, but I was curious if there is a better oil to use. What oil do u use and which do think is best?

RB83L69

This topic comes up every couple of weeks, and usually starts an argument. Most of the knowledgeable people here prefer some sort of synthetic, no thicker than necessary to maintain acceptable oil pressure. Any kind of clean fresh oil and filter is better than any kind of old dirty oil with a stopped-up filter. Speaking of filters, the consensus is, stay away from Fram; AC, Mobil1, Purolator's more expensive product line, and K&N seem to be the favorites.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

ede

here's soemthing vader posted on the subject. i like it because it's not as subjective as a lot you'll read on it. i like pennzoil for dino oil and amsoil for synthetic.

now what vader said a few months back:

Amsoil is a very good synthetic engine lubricant. Mobil 1 is also a very good lubricant. Each has some minor advantages over the other in a few categories. Amsoil 10W30 has a slightly lower pour point than Mobil 1. That's very important if you drive around at -60°F. Mobil has a better (tighter) viscosity index (more stable at higher temps). Amsoil has a slightly higher flash point, but creates a little ash when exposed to combustion. Mobil 1 has a flash point slightly lower than Amsoil, but creates zero ash when burned. Neither oil contains zinc as an EP additive, since the molecules are so stable at such high temperatures and loads.
------------------Mobil 15W50 has a better pour point than Amsoil 15W40, but the Amsoil still has a slightly higher flash point and slightly tighter viscosity index.

Valvoline synthetics have a much higher ash content and pour points, and Castrol Syntec is probably the least desireable synthetic, since it performs about the same as a well-engineered mineral oil. The specs on Syntec are really no better than Pennzoil Performax 5W30 mineral oil.

None of the synthetics of any brand are much better in an SAE viscosity less than 10W. In other words, the 10W30 synthetics have pour points around -70°F, while the 5W oils only pour down to -76

ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd
MM Black Diamond 538 F&AM

[This message has been edited by ede (edited October 08, 2001).]

smnitWS6TA

Thanx for the info. I think I'm gonna try out a synthetic next time I change my oil, I'm trying to get a little more oil pressure out of the car. I don't think it will make much difference but if you get a bunch of little things right it'll make the big mods go smoother.

camaro6spd

Let me tell you this, My father changes the car in our cars right around 3000 miles +- 200 miles, he uses the cheapest brand name motor oil on sale at Wal-Mart. Now I look at the heads on these car and there is very little if at all dirt on them(throught the oil filler and PVC holes). My brother lumina as over 100,000 miles and my dad Contour has over 70,000 both spotless, altho I will use 10w30 Modle 1 just because i don't need to change the oil too much b/c my car does not accumulate miles and the wear factor.

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1987 Black 305 TPI 5spd IROC, seems to be fully loaded, but can't find RPO codes.

AIM: IROC 5spd
http://www.geocities.com/chevy5spdiroc/87Roc.htm

Vader

WS6,

As RB and 6-Speed mentioned, it is probably far more important to change the oil and filter on a regular schedule than to try to stretch out oil changes on a premium or synthetic lubricant. The synthetics will lubricate better and longer, but either choice will accumlate dirt and contaminants in a short time in severe driving conditions. Read your owner's manual and you'll probably discover that the way you drive (like most everyone) is classified in the "severe" category.

Religious oil and filter changes at 5,000 km (3,000 mile) intervals will provide better service than 10,000 mile changes on synthetic, unless you do nothing but highway driving.

It is also important to remember that all the oil in the engine is pumped through the filter, so changing it is as important as changing the oil, if not more so. I've seen countless people over the years that would try to economize by changing the oil filter at every other oil change. The little that might be saved by keeping a portion of the dirty oil in an ever-shrinking filter is usually paid back many times over from early failure and the repair bills that go with it. Regular maintenance is the easiest and least expensive way to maintain your equipment in the long run.

Therefore, if the higher price of synthetics means you won't be changing your oil at regular intervals, do yourself a favor and buy a good quality mineral oil and change it more often. You'll be better off in the long run. If you don't mind spending the extra cash for synthetics, but still plan to change regularly, then go for the extra protection. Just don't stretch out the intervals more than 20% over mineral oils, and then only under the right conditions.

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Later,
Vader
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Justice and Freedom will Prevail
Adobe Acrobat Reader

82camaro

CLEAN oil is the best oil.


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350 with stealth intake, holley carb, 470 lift cam. 700r4 with .5 boost valve, vette servo, tci lock-up kit, B&M megashifter. Richmond 3.73 gears, powertrax locker, timkin bearings, synthetic lube. Custom 3 inch single into 2 2.5 pipes. 1 1/2 drop springs, 1 5/16 solid front sway bar, 1 inch rear bar, custom subframe connectors, custom LCA relocation brackets. Kobel ground FX, currant red metallic paint. Lots of other stuff...
82camaro

soulbounder

Okay, I could have sworn I saw 0w30 or something like that. And yes, it was "0w30". What is that?

mcconahay37

iTrader: (3)

Really, really thin oil.

I always use Castrol GTX.

JETHROIROC

Rubbing alcohol, or perhaps oil for the north pole. I'd steer away from anything thinner than 5W-30 or 10W-30 in a synthetic. If you live in a REALLY cold climate (-30 for days on end), and use conventional oil, you may need 0W-30. But probably only 0.01% of the population needs oil this thin. If I were in really cold conditions I would just run synthetic and be done with it. Just my $0.02.

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1990 IROC 350
Mods: Too busy trying to make it run right to mod it.
Airfoil, Dynomax cat-back, MSD coil, 180 t-stat, Bald Eagle tires,
Hypertech fan switch, Accel 23# injectors, Holley module, ported plenum,
Ported Daytona Yellow stock base, Moroso valve covers, other stuff,
Streetdampr, Ruger P95DC, hot wife, new oil filter, !cats, !TBC, !AIR.
18.0 @ 85MPH since I'm one big-a$$ MF
"It's better to have and not need than to need and not have."

JETHROIROC

Damn, they sell 0W-30 down in dat dare bayou . LOL!

RB83L69

The only brand of 0W-30 I know of that's commonly available is Mobil1... I've run it quite a bit, can't tell very much difference between that and their 5W-30 or 10W-30 to be honest. My oil pressure was about the same, 55 or so cruising and around 30-35 idling, with any of them. And that was even in the summer when I lived in west TN, where it gets over 100° regularly, running the A/C 5 months non-stop.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

JETHROIROC

Be prepared for Vader's spiel about oils thinner than 10W-30 .

I went to school with some guys from Shelby county, and for some reason they thought 95*F and 95% humidity was a cold front!

Tremo

OK, I read above the recommendation to avoid FRAM oil filters. Please enlighten me as to why. What's wrong with them? Thanks.

Dan87IROC-Z

I use Mobil 1 10W30 synthetic and an AC Delco filter, I buy both from Wal-Mart.

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1987 Chevy Camaro IROC-Z
L98 TPI 350 (5.7L)
TH 700R-4 Transmission
Borg Warner 7.75" 9 Bolt Rear End with 2.77:1 Gears.

Current Mods: LT4 HOT Cam, Comp Cams 1.52:1 Roller Rocker Arms, Accel High Flow TPI Baseplate, Edelbrock TES 1 5/8" Headers, Catco 3" High-Flow Catalytic Converter, Hooker 3" Aerochamber Cat-Back System, Transgo Shift Kit, Performance Resource Chip, Accel Ignition, K&N Filters, Jet TPI Air Foil, All Free Mods, Falken ZIEX Z-Rated Tires.

Best ET: 14.32 @ 97.7mph
(corrected for elevation)

u r sofa king we tah did

just keep it changed regularly and youll be fine. most people who go synthetic go with mobil 1 due to the fact that it readily avalible so much. mobil 1 is a great oil, and it doesnt break down as quick as dino oil. you can easily go a few thousand miles over on mobil 1 without having a problem. if you constantly go over with dino oil, you will have buildup, but with synthetic you will not get buildup.