Doom86

finnally my 305 has bit the dust

as the subject says im wanting to build a budget 350 to make around 325-350 hp at the crank. heres what i have now to use;

cc quadrajet all new sensors for computer (wont ditch the cc setup)
350 engine with, im assuming, truck heads (block casting 010)
Performer RPM intake manifold
416 58cc heads
Hedman shorties w/ y pipe
3" catback w/ test pipe and 3" in/out dynomax


die grinder, hottank, and welder also availble.

My plan is:
have the 416's cut for 1.94 valves and fully port and deshroud them.

Since i'm on a tight budget im going for a Crane 284, or Blue Racer 280 cam. i've considered Comp's XE cams and Cranes Zcams, but can save a lot of cash here. apporpriet valve springs also

Use the exsiting cc carb, intake and full exhaust.

What do you all think??

ChevyRacer

well on a budget, thats a great start.


But in your opinion what is a budget? I see a budget build as $700 max. I built my 350, on nothing more then $500, but i ws given many good graces.

But the stock carb, will hold you bac, stock exhaust, dont even want to go there, the intake, ummm did you mean like filter or what, you said performer RPM manifold? The plastic stuff should be fine. Not a real biggie.

But with exhaust and carb being stock, 325-350hp is not as easily attainable.

But get the engine done, then work on this stuff. That way afterwards, you still have power to look forward to.

327_TPI_77_Maro

iTrader: (8)

350 hp with a CC Quadrajet and 305 heads? Yikes. I am running the 416 heads on my 327 as an experiment to see just how bad they will hold me back flow wise, but at the same time giving me almost true 10:1 compression. I would not bother cutting these heads for bigger valves -- the regular 350 TPI "083" heads already have them and are not rare or expensive heads.

Doom86

ChevyRacer, in the original post i said i was going to be using a edelbrock RPM intake manifold, and my stock exhaust is long gone, its a 3" stainless steel catback.

The CC setup is easily capable of handling this much power, i know some of the people on this board have done it too.

I dont know my budget, its being put together "check to check", im trying to get away with spending as little as possible with-out going "cheap" and building a clunker. As a guess i'd say 400-500$ total, thats with all the odds and ends as well.

from what i read 416 heads are quiet nice when fully ported. desktop dyno seems to think so too, using some flow numbers i found for "mildly ported w/ 1.84 intake valves" it preditcts 360 HP with the Crane 284. I dont plan on doing a mild job my self, so i dont see how i couldnt get 350 HP with bigger valves.. I know DDyno isnt even close to 100% accurate but it should be atleast in the ballpark give or take 30hp, or so.

I once considered using the 083 casting, but i dont want to have to mutilate my intake manifold to get them to work. They would need just as much porting to reach the goal though too.

327_TPI_77_Maro

iTrader: (8)

You can get 083 heads with the old style center bolt angle, but I wouldn't be so worried about drilling your manifold if you are trying to build a cheap motor. The only flow numbers I've seen on the 416s (081s) are peak flow numbers, I have never seen flow at specific lifts. It sounds like you are using the peak flow #s, I know what TGO post you got them from. You will not see anywhere near these at low lifts, so the HP #s you got are elevated.

Doom86

Try not to assume too much. You cannot just plug in max flow #'s into desktopdyno, it needs the whole lift range.

Heres one thread i found; https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...416+flow+stock

Heres what you'll find there;

From Kitch:

More 416 flow numbers
I've just finished reflowing my 416 heads with a 1.9" intake valve ( turned down manley 1.94" race flow valve).

Stock 1.84" valve in ported intake
Lift........CFM@ 28"
.05...........29.4
.10...........57.4
.15...........88.3
.20.........122.1
.25.........152.2
.30.........172.9
.35.........188.7
.40.........201.8
.45.........213.3
.50.........217.8
.55.........220.7

Modified 1.9" valve in ported intake
Lift.........CFM@ 28"
.05...........33.0.........+3.6
.10...........65.3.........+7.9
.15...........98.2.........+9.9
.20.........129.8.........+7.7
.25.........158.5.........+6.3
.30.........181.3.........+8.4
.35.........200.4.......+11.7
.40.........217.2.......+15.4
.45.........230.0.......+16.7
.50.........227.2.........+9.4
.55.........221.4.........+0.7



Theres a few more threads out there if you search, im kinda busy at the moment.

decent flow numbers from .45-.5 lift, mixed with a .480 lift cam, sounds logical to me. now if you do a full port job, you could probably see more flow.

sellmanb

the CC-QJet is capable of 500hp, it is not going to be a HP blocker. You need to get some new rods and hangars for it, and grind off the restrictor tab so it can flow the 795CFM it's supposed to. This is espescially a good choice for a racer on a budget... grinding = free rods and hangers = 20 dollars..... as compared to new carb = 230, the hours upon hours you spend tweeking it = priceless.



I'm not well versed in which intake manifolds are single plane, and which are dual sorry.


The 416 heads are a great head to port. Look up "Sitting Bull" he has a great detailed post about how to port the stock heads. 88FBird (I think that's his username?) posted flow numbers from .05 to after it stopped making power, you can see his numbers there.


Grinding on your stock heads is basically free after you get the porting equipment. I spent roughly 200 max on all of mine (The porting bits, the electric die grinder from Sears with a 2 year warrantee, and the pieces from Home Depot to make it adjustable).

The machine shop charges for the valve size increases will probably be the most. At the same time you should be pulling out those push-in rocker arm studs and having them drill it for screw ins.... this is a little expensive now, but will save you a lot of money down the road when you are trying to diagnose weird problems with performance and idle and such, and then find you have a few studs pulling out, so then you have to take off both heads, new intake manifold gasket and head gaskets there.... see what I mean about doing it right the first time? lol.

You'll also need to have it hot tanked and magnafluxed before you port it, as well as afterwards (dont want metal shavings in there). Then you can get new valves for not too much, manley makes some great valves... probably best to splurge a little here and get their stuff instead of some no-name chinesium valves.

350hp at the flywheel should be easily attainable according to how much time and effort you put into the head work. 350RWHP isnt too far away either, you'll just need to upgrade other parts along the way, like the ignition, but that isnt too big of a deal now, and you can get away just fine with the stock ignition, it wont hold you back too much at all really.

I am rather fond of the Comp's XE line of cams, but I hear Lunati makes some great cams as well... I jst like the XE line because it helps with idle quality while not sacraficing power.

Doom86

thanks for some input Sellmanb

my carb has the restricter filled down so that the secondaries open up what looks like 75-80', much more then the factory rescrition. I was going to try and go a bit further, but the tabs almost gone already, just a little stump left.

I have a good selection of rods and hangers, right now, though, it has a G hanger with DR rods, it also likes CK rods, but havent tested them against each other at the track yet.

i have an air compressor and die grinder at my disposal, dont know the size of the compresor, but its about 5' tall, should be sufficant. The Standard abraisives deluxe porting kit is 42$ over at jegs, thats what i planned to use, though my uncle says he already has the burs, i could probably get a lesser kit.

Theres lots of good information on this site, and on the Standard Abraisives web site, about porting and polishing. I have spent a loooong time reading about it, enough that im confident in doing this.

The machine shop right up the street quoted me 12$ a valve to cut them for larger valves. I'm going to shop around some more though. My plan was to use Manley racing valves.

Is pinning the studs going to be cheaper then machining for screw-in studs?

Check out Cranes Zcams, they are a lot like the Comps XE grinds. I can save around 70$ here though by going with the older grinds. Unless i can get a steal on Ebay or something. This is my only car so i cant have it down for too long while i save cash.

Thanks again for helping out, im just trying to make sure im on the right track!!

BTW: the Performer RPM is a high rise dual plane, supposedly good to 7000RPM's..

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

yes, pinning the studs is cheaper... buy 5 drill bits (in case some break), =$10, and the roll pins = $5.... do the math eh...

I think it's not *quite* as good as using threaded studs though... remember, you can have a shop mill down the stud bosses, and tap, then you need guide plates, push rods, pricey studs... or just use the mr-gasket ones that require no boss milling, just the tapping (if you have a tap, and are careful you can do this yourself... althought I just made a jig to line the tap up myself...), and the studs are pretty cheap... Then you don't need guide plates, just reuse the stock pushrods etc....


You're doing essentially the exact same build i'm doing this winter, except i'll be using a non-cc q-jet, and a lunati voodoo cam (or a comp xe268...)....

Doom86

Thanks Sonix.. good luck with your build

I wish i had time to save some cash, id by a better cam no doubt. Maybe if i get lucky i'll find something different, though i'm not too worried about that lesser bottom end of the old grinds because i'm switching to a 3.73 gear.

i'll have to talk to my uncle about the tap, hes got a nice garage he works out of (his home garage).

For compression i was wanting something gas friendly like 9:3, if i open up the compression chambers is this possible with 416's? My plan was to lay the head gasket on the head and trace an outline of the cylinder walls and use that as a guide.. Any chance of hitting water this way??

Thanks for all your help everyone, i'm intrested in some more suggestions!!

Doom86

Heres the cost i have on paper for the heads;

96$ = Cutting for 1.94 valves
80$ = Race-Flo 1.94 manley valves
35$ = Blue Racer springs 0.487 max lift
43$ = porting kit
12$ = stud pinning kit

266$ = total
i'm going to put in the factory pushrods and i have a valve stem seal kit so i'm putting them in too.

Am i wasting my money on valves? should i even consider getting better exhaust valves?

Can i reuse the stock retainers??

This is my first SBC build so feal free to help!! I've done a lot of research but short of bolt ons all my work has been done with hondas.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I highly HIGHLY recommend you read sitting bulls thread (you can't miss it, it's got like 300 posts or more... probably the biggest ever...)

That's pretty cheap to cut for those valves... You may need new valve guides, just something to think about...maybe the need the guides to be cut down for the extra lift... speaking of, aren't those springs cutting it close for the max lift of the cam? I don't know what the max lift of that cam is, but if I guessed it to be .480 range, springs with .487 max is a little close for comfort...

The valves will be a sound investment, don't worry about the exhausts... (again, read sitting bulls thread, seriously, every question you've already asked and are thinking about asking is discussed in great detail...)


hondas? gasp! why???



yea, i'm doing 416 heads on a 350, I already have the 1.94 valves from some old 993 heads I had lying around... A lunati voodoo "268" cam, performer RPM q-jet intake, custom cold air intake, hedmann headers, single 3" exhaust (already on)....
well that's the plan at least. Shouldn't be too pricey, but it's the little things that kill ya... (like new valve guides, or cutting bigger spring pockets, stuff that you don't think about until you find out you need it...)

not sure about the retainers, i'd guess yes...?

Doom86

i've read his thread a few times and a few others out here. theres great information around here if you know how to use the search engine.. another good read is the DIY guide to porting on the standard abraisives website, good stuff there.

Thanks for the information on the springs i wasnt sure if it would be a problem or not, having the max lifts so close together (your right its .480), i'll get a some stiffer springs then.

The truck heads on the 350 probably have 1.94 valves, would the undercut racing valves still be worth the extra $$. i've seen stainless steel undercut Elgin 1.94's on ebay for half the cost of the manley valves. Infact i can get the intake and exhaust valves for less then the cost of the manleys.

my old honda CRX was pretty quick (for a honda mind you), had it when i was a late teen (8-10 years ago probably). There was only 2 cars to beat me on the street, both were 4th gen fbody's not sure all that was done to it, i handed my uncle money at the time and said "make it faster" and he did, i helped him put the motor back together, i think it was head work, cam and induction. now i do my own work at his garage.

Our build-ups sound a lot alike, Sonix, hopefully we both have equal success

sellmanb

When you get bigger springs, try and find some that will fit the stock sized valve pockets... otherwise you'll need to have that machine work done as well.


The machine shop is what milks most of your funds, not really the parts lol... I'm basically in the same boat as you though... I'm going a similar but slightly different route though... Home ported 416 heads (have experience porting 4 banger heads, so I guess it's better than none, eh?) with 1.94 manley street-flow intake valves, 1.6 manley street-flow exhaust valves, Comp XE268h cam, and a ZZ4 intake manifold with a CCQ-jet.

I've got everything basically except the cam and headwork for my swap

once I get the cam and headwork done, and put in the appropriate rods and hangars I expect to .... well.... have traction problems

I think your setup will probably make more ponies than mine, who knows

Keep us updated on your progress, I love to hear about a project from start to finish!

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

oh right, there was a point to mentioning my build (and now sellmans), as we both have 268 grinds, and you're thinking about a 280... Wouldn't that be not very street friendly?

yea, i'm just taking the 1.94 valves out of the 993 heads, and having them back cut.... I think that'll be fine, but i'm not sure how it compares to getting manley race valves, with an undercut... someone on here would know...

Doom86

perhaps it is too much for a street driven car, or daily driver. that is what i want to know my self.

according to desktop dyno that crane 284 cam in a 350 would be making 20 less torque @ 2000 rpms then my 305 was, which may be a bit too little for the factory stall. As is the 305 would break the tires loose no problem on the street, but at the same time it DIDNT have any tractions problems at the track on a peg leg and street tires.

there was another cam i was considering based on the power curve that DD predicted. The cam is Crane's 278 H10, a single patern, with dur 222 @.5 and .467 lift.

in the attached image the XE268 is the dotted line and the 278H10 is the solid line.

Doom86

cmon TGO help a brother out!!

Are undercut manley racing valves worth the extra cash??

Does anyone have any expeirence with Elgin stainless steel undercut valves? You can get both intake and exhaust for less then just the Manley intakes.

Does my cam choice look ok?? (Crane 278H)

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

How are you dudes doing a complete motor for under $1000? I don't see anything mentioned about new pistons, rings, bearings, etc. Are you using an old low-mileage shortblock and just adding heads, cam, headers and carb, or building from the ground up?

Just with pistons-rings-$350, rod bolts-$60, having the rods re-sized and hung on the pistons-$96+64, having the block line honed-$150, gaskets-$100, and bearings-$100, I'm already at $900+. That doesn't even include a new oil pump and pickup, roller rockers, lifters, etc. I am assuming that you will be re-using all the stock parts, correct?

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

looking at that graph, the comp 268 seems to be superior in all aspects..? I guess if the one you're getting is significantly cheaper then...


Someone should have an opinion on undercut valves.... If you're not using it for pure race, exotic materials (SS, titanium), shouldn't be needed.... JMHO

Doom86

superior, yes, but we're talking about 3-6 HP per RPM. Above 3500 the difference isnt even notable. the only problem i see is the lower-end torque (again we're talkinga bout 10). And even then, according to DD, it will have more power the 305 does out of the whole, which is plenty IMO. I'll also probably pick up a stall down the road too.

I can save 50$ going to the, "lesser", 278h cam, and that 50$ could be better spent on performance valves IMO. remeber budget! i'm broke and wasnt prepaired for my engine to give out.

89gta383, i'll be using all the exsisting parts i can get away with here. If the bottom end is in sound working order i wont be touching it, we'll see about that once i get these heads off (probably tonight) and pull the oil pan. Not every engine you find is in bad shape, and we're not all made of money.

Even then your prices are very exagerated IMO. You could pick up the pistons (hyper flat tops), rings, bearings, and gaskets for 170$ on ebay, new peices too.. if im not mistaken theres even a oil pump in the bundle.. Think budget!

Stekman

https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...&highlight=350

There's my input on a budget 350. Find my posts, you can't miss them.

Doom86

thanks Stekman

i've actaully read that thread before, it comes up if you do a search for, exact phrase, "budget 350"..

i guess my build is an "extreme budget 350", compared to the one you were describing. but it'll get my car back on the road. If i had money falling out of my ears, trust me i would do it right!!

hopefully the bottom end checks out so i can save some $$ and time. I hate not having a car!

someone, anyone must have information on valves;

""Are undercut manley racing valves worth the extra cash??

Does anyone have any expeirence with Elgin stainless steel undercut valves? You can get both intake and exhaust for less then just the Manley intakes.""

Also, in regards to the pistons and rings and so forth, heres a kit that is on ebay for buy it now 176$ shipped;

""Here is a nice kit consisting of Speed Pro Hyperutetic Flat Top race Pistons part # H345NP in all popular sizes, Sealed Poiwer Cast Rings and Clevite 77 rod and main bearings, and a Fel Pro full overhaul gasket set containing Permatorque head and intake gaskets and their new Blue rear main seal. all oversizes available. Upgrade to coated skirts for $15 or Moly rings $10""

89gta383

iTrader: (5)

I was thinking of the trw L2256 forged pistons instead of cast or hypers and all separate high-performance pieces for the supporting cast, like head gaskets, etc. instead of a bundled set. I guess I need to shop around more.

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

This is a looooong thread,lol. To answer your question about the valves. I don't think they are justified for your particular set up. They will increase flow on ported heads, but I just can't bring myself to tell you to get them. The smaller cam Sonix and Sellmanb are using is probably the best idea for you. The performer RPM intake will give you power up to around 6-6500 RPM's which is nice, but I doubt you'll use it all unless you experiment with spacers to get a better flow path for the fuel into the intake ports. The head flow numbers you posted look like they're from a set of ported heads. I could be wrong, but I don't think a set of production heads ever flowed that good. I'm not knocking your heads, they are good starting points, but the numbers are up there with A.F.R. heads. About you head gasket, most gaskets come in sizes larger than your bore, this way they can be used on various applications. It makes it easier on the gasket manufacturers. The Q-Jet your using will be perfect for the power range you want. Q-Jet's are excellent carbs for daily drivers. You won't have to mod it very much either. The factory Q-Jets are actually better than the Edelbrock aftermarket ones in my opinion because the factory wet flowed their numbers, but Edelbrock didn't. Wet flowing introduces fuel into the test arena and gives much more realistic numbers since fuel particals displace air particles to arrive at the flow number. Dry flowing doesn't do that, therefore a dry flowed carb will appear to have much higher flow than it actually does when mixed with fuel particles. Don't worry about getting any forged parts. You probably don't even need to get Hypereutectic pistons either. With a little preparation on your part, you can have a really cheap bottom end that will live for a long time and is able to stand up to power levels in the 420-450 horsepower arena. It sounds like you've got a lot of help with Sonix and Sellmanb building a motor similar to yours. I hope this helped you all out.

Stekman

One thing you are not counting is the valve lift. At roughly .480", on factory 416 castings and similar, the bottom of the retainer hits the top of the guide boss. Any lift over this amount is pointless (and guaranteed detrimental) for you. The lifts you see advertised in the cam manufactures catalogs, are listed for the factory rocker ratio of 1.5, so even with factory rocker boats, you can do the math.

When I made my budgeted engine, I used a cam with just shy of .480" of valve lift, so to accommodate for the safety clearance, I used a set of +.050" valve locks (basically moves the bottom of the retainer, ther part that has the clearance issues, up .050".).

Cranes 278 you list looks good. You don't need a big cam, nor would you want one. Over-camming an engine isn't exactly the best thing in the world. Sure it sounds cool, but cylinder pressures, lift, RPM range, blah blah blah blah........

I also agree on the forementioned part of not needing hypereutectic pistons. I used cast and my engine runs fine. Take care of your stuff and your stuff will take care of you. However, again, if price shopping yields a better deal otherwise, take it.

sellmanb

Doom86.

This is what I'd do assuming you've got a good short block already.

Take your 416 heads, port them out all you want, this is where most of your power will be. Get them made for bigger valves. The manley undercut valves give you an extra 2% flow or so. Whether or not you're willing to sacrafice that 2% of power or not is up to you and your budget (but I know I wouldnt want to have to take the heads off again to upgrade the valves later down the road)

Use your stock intake manifold until later, this is the money saver!

Dont cheap out on the cam!!! The cam determines how the motor reacts, and all motor characteristics...

The cheaper cam that you want will give you less gas mileage, less horsepower, less idle quality, and less streetability when in comparison to the Comp's XE268...


Get a intake manifold when you can afford more mods and dont "just need to drive it again!".

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Just wanted to say thanks to stekman, for that other post that was linked... Very helpful, thanks for taking the time to do all that typing!
Speaking of, could I use my 416 castings, with a 268 lunati cam, (504 max lift on exhaust), with .050 retainers? Safe idea?
Or would it be easier for me to cut down my guides, and re-use stock retainers?
Looking at the valve guides on the 993 heads in my garage now (my practice heads), it has a huge amount of valve guide at the top, couldn't I just angle grinder those down? Or I suppose I could mill it, if it needs to be very precise...

Stekman

Uh, not a problem!

As far as the clearance, for numbers like that, it would probably be wise to have them milled down professionally. Yes, the +.050" pushes it to over .500" clearance, however, keep in mind, you need the added .050-.060" or so for safety clearance.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

well, I have access to a mill at work, so I could probably get it done, it doesn't seem like the type of thing that requires a ton of accuracy, since i'm just gaining clearance... We shall see...

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

Sellmanb said you should port your heads and keep your intake. I only want to add one thing to that. Port the intake manifold ports to match the intake ports in the head. This is a small step, but worth the increase in flow from matched ports. Another thing you could do that might be worth some power on the stock intake is to put a piece of sheetmetal under the intake that's secured with screws. The area between the sheetmetal and the bottom of the manifold can be packed with silicone or some other non-flamable insulation. This will protect the bottom of the intake manifold from having oil splashed on the bottom of it, which in turn should keep the intake air/fuel coming in cooler. Don't expect major gains here. It's usually worth 5-10 H.P. I've heard some people claim they got 20 H.P. with this mod, but I seriously doubt it made that much of a difference. With the port work and this mod, you might wind up deciding to keep your stock intake,lol.

Doom86

first i want to thank you guys for taking the time to help me out. your probably helping out many other people who read this later too.

last night i got the old 305 tore down and ready to be pulled. hopefully today we'll get it out so i can start taking it apart. I never got a chance to check out the "new" 350 last night.

Sellmanb i have a great intake manifold right now, im taking it off of the 305, its a Edelbrock Performer RPM (qjet version).

I'm going to go with the Crane 278H cam, it seems like the best bang per buck here. As far as overlap is concerned, just as a guide, DD predicts an overlap rating of 54 for the XE268, and 58 for the 278H (which is less then the XE274). So it shouldnt be too street unfriendly..

The 278H only has .467 lift so the heads shouldnt need any machining to accomodate this? Other then pinning the studs of course.

Now my next task is to talk my uncle out of the t-10 he has sitting, collecting dust, in his shop.. He keeps telling me that he can build up a th350 that'll "snap your head back when it shifts" and it'll be faster then the T10 at the track.. hrmm.. hes been doing this for 25 years so i hate to argue with the man.. lol..

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

Just remember to remind your uncle that the TH350 with the shift kit will also like better gears in the rearend. Unless you've changed them, most 305's have a rear gear ratio of 2.73:1. Great for the highway, but bad for the strip. The Iroc 3.42:1 gears would probably be pretty decent. You can go higher if you want, but I wouldn't go over 3.73:1 gears for a daily driven street machine that might see the freeway or a distance race with your buddy. You might kill him in the 1/4 but he'll get you on the top speed. As I said, you can have a higher ratio if you want, I just like the 3.42-3.73 ratio for a street car that's driven regularly.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I have 3.23 with a T-10, it's brutal. Fun in the strip maybe, but a top speed of a whopping 80MPH when i'm at 4500RPM? BS! I can't pass someone on the highway without redlining, and having to slow right back down. I'd never go over 3.08 unless I had overdrive, or if I never drove the car on a highway....


anyway, good luck with your build, but I think that cam, since it's only $50 cheaper, yet seems to be inferior in many ways, will be a thorn in your side soon. That $50 isn't much now, but boy it'd be a pain to re-replace the cam again alter (since you'd need new lifters again, plus having to get at the damn thing...) Cam and heads i'd get as good as you can now, then cheap out on the things that are easy to replace later, headers, intake, carb, easy stuff.... anywho, we'll let you go to it, and start turning some wrenches.

iroczracer07

iTrader: (2)

I don't know if Sonix thought I meant to use those high ratio gears with the T-10, but I meant for them to be used with the TH-350. A stick doesn't experience much RPM drop off when you shift the gears as an automatic does. That's why you need higher ratio gears for an automatic. For the T-10, I'd stick with the highway gears you've got. It saves money and you won't suffer Sonix's dilema of topping out at 80 MPH. Like I said, 305 powered camaros usually had a 2.73 gear ratio, which will keep a stick-shift camaro very happyon the highway.

Doom86

well i got the 305 tore down tonight to just the block and heads. i was staying to late as is so i called it a night. as soon as i get the heads off i'm sending them out to have them cut for bigger valves, they'll be 1.94, 1.5 with undercut valves.

iroczracer07, if you read back youll see where i was talking about changing to a 3.73 gear for the 700r (i know its a long thread!l). if i were to go with a th350 it would be a 3.23-3.42. my uncle knows his ****, i wont be needing to remind him of anything drivetrain related.

i never knew the t10 had such short gears, sonix. id have to swap that thing out!

im also going to buy a electric die grinder so i can work on the heads at home. harbor frieght has one that isnt too costly, and they are just up the road so i can always take it back if it breaks.

the xe268 sounds tempting, sonix, but it wouldnt end up being only 50$ more in the end. because then id need better springs and probably machining for higher lift. the budget cam will do good i think.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I think you'll need the machining for higher lift anyway... you'll find out soon, you don't have to buy the cam until later down the road anyway, time will tell...

what I meant with the T-10 was the 1:1 final drive, same as the TH-350... I wish I had overdrive.... but hey, apparently the t-10 is bulletproof, better then a T-5 so...