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#1
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Okay, I am going to be buying a block and building an engine for my new Camaro. I have an LS1 for my 87, and I just bought a 88 and want to put a 400 small block in it. I am just curious, would i be better off buying a crate 400 from an engine builder, or would i be better off buying the block and building it from scratch? Ive never built an engine b4 but i have family and friends who said theeyd help. I want to find the cheapest way out to get a running engine. I want a NEW engine, not used, whether i build or buy it. Also, i want a lot of upgradibilty. Like if i build one i can replace some core components to get more HP/TQ. So what do you think my best bet is? and what do you think the cost will be?? Thanks guys
#2
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
Well if you wanted to go fairly cheap grab a crate, then you also get the almighty warranty.
If you build one you could potentially make it alot more potent than the crate engine but then you have no warranty for about the same price as a crate engine.
If you build one you could potentially make it alot more potent than the crate engine but then you have no warranty for about the same price as a crate engine.
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Car: 1991 GTA
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23
You could also try getting a short block. That way, the bottom end is already put together for you. All you would need to do it bolt up the heads, intake, oil pan, etc.
These guys have a pretty nice 400 small block I'd buy if I were going that route:
http://www.coasthigh.com/
These guys have a pretty nice 400 small block I'd buy if I were going that route:
http://www.coasthigh.com/
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Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
If you're on a budget, a crate motor is the way to go. Keep in mind however that crate motors are made for the masses. Most places that build them take the time to blueprint the motor, most aren't internally balanced, and they're just kinda slammed together. They're not going to make the same power that a custom built motor would. There are exceptions to the rule but in the end you'll pay for it so if you can afford it you might as well have a local REPUTABLE shop build you a nice motor. It will be built better and suit your needs perfectly.
#5
Okay awesome. Now the new car has a v6 in it, just like my LS1 car had. I am thinking about a t350 trans. So how much am i looking at to get the motor and trans in? I wanna go Carb'd not FI. Will I need to replace the rear end? These are questions im asking for both the 400 and the ls1
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 357
Transmission: TH-350C
Axle/Gears: 3.43
The rear end should be fine unless you plan on putting some big numbers through it. The driveshaft will have to be made up for the length of the trans.
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Car: '88 IROC-Z medium orange metallic
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.27
Originally posted by tomsa
Okay awesome. Now the new car has a v6 in it, just like my LS1 car had. I am thinking about a t350 trans. So how much am i looking at to get the motor and trans in? I wanna go Carb'd not FI. Will I need to replace the rear end? These are questions im asking for both the 400 and the ls1
Okay awesome. Now the new car has a v6 in it, just like my LS1 car had. I am thinking about a t350 trans. So how much am i looking at to get the motor and trans in? I wanna go Carb'd not FI. Will I need to replace the rear end? These are questions im asking for both the 400 and the ls1
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#8
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You should realize that your objectives - new or rebuilt, low cost, upgradeability - do not go well together. If you consider $3500 for a shortblock "low cost", never mind.
Factory 400 blocks aren't particularly well known for high performance reliability. Most can only handle .030" overbore. I had a stock 400 with over a quarter of a million miles on it, but it didn't have as much power as my 305 did.
I haven't seen many 400 crates out there, either. Typically, when you upgrade to an aftermarket 400 block, the next step of a stroker crank is also taken, getting you something like 414, 427, or 434. For about the same cost as a 400.
3rd gen rears are identical to 4th gen rears, except the 4th gens have longer axles. I've seen more than one guy break his 4th gen rear at the track. They can be strengthened, but if you really plan on abusing it, talk to Moser about a 12 bolt made for your car.
Factory 400 blocks aren't particularly well known for high performance reliability. Most can only handle .030" overbore. I had a stock 400 with over a quarter of a million miles on it, but it didn't have as much power as my 305 did.
I haven't seen many 400 crates out there, either. Typically, when you upgrade to an aftermarket 400 block, the next step of a stroker crank is also taken, getting you something like 414, 427, or 434. For about the same cost as a 400.
3rd gen rears are identical to 4th gen rears, except the 4th gens have longer axles. I've seen more than one guy break his 4th gen rear at the track. They can be strengthened, but if you really plan on abusing it, talk to Moser about a 12 bolt made for your car.
#9
I was looking at a 434 in particular. I am just going to do a budget build on that short block i think, with a weiand blower and a th350 or th400. Then later on i can replace the heads etc when i get the money. Also, does anyone know anything about the steam holes on the 400 blocks?
#11
Well do any heads come with these predrilled to match the block? or is it something i am going to have to do no matter what? Also, will I have to get a special headgasket?
#12
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
You'll need a 400 head gasket, and use it as a template to drill the holes in the heads.
I've only seen instructions from the manufacturer about how to drill them, I haven't seen 400-specific heads offered.
I've only seen instructions from the manufacturer about how to drill them, I haven't seen 400-specific heads offered.