del91_305

Im am thinking about purchasing a timing recurve kit for the 91. As in my sig i swapped from TBI to Carb. When ever i stomp the gas right off the line, it takes it a minute to get going, i have the timing set at 18 base with a total of 36 at WOT. I do not completey understand what the recurve kit does, Does it make the total timing kick in at a lower RPM's? If so then i think thats what i need. Also are they hard to install?

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

I believe that little sag can be attributed to several things. centrifical advance rate, Carb Tuning(Especially the Pumpshot), and the fact you have TOO MUCH STALL for your cam.

85z28guy

I agree with fast, it probably has very little to do with your timing advance. Basically these advance kits are just a thing you tinker with after you get it setup. They come the new weights, and usually 3 different colour springs. You pick a spring based on how fast you want to reach your total timing, at what rpm, etc. So technically yes it could make your total timing kick in at a lower rpm. Pop your cap, remove the rotor, and look at the weights and springs. If there all corroded or worn I guess it could be your problem, but again I doubt it. If you want to put your mind to ease pick one up (there like $5), and try it.

F-BIRD'88

You do not have too much stall. 18 degree initial timing at idle should be enough. You want to get a degreed balancer tape or a advance timing light and verify total timing thou.
Should be 32 to 36deg. usually you need to limit the travel of the mechanical advance by welding up and regrinding the advance pin slot . requires dissassembleing the distributor.
this will allow a shorter curve with more initial advance but 32 to 36 total by 3000rpm. usually medium weight springs.
Then the typical 20-25 deg vacuum advacne is too much. Limit it to 15 to 20degrees at high cruise manifold vacuum.
(highway cruising)

the accelerator pump needs tuning. larger shooters, more pump shot (linkage) Be sure the squirters shoot fuel as soon as the throttle begins to move. ( linkage slack, pump plunger diapharam condition)
Install new fresh properly gapped sparkplugs. Old plugs will have poor throttle response.

A 2800stall lockup converter is a good match for the cam u have. this cam acts much bigger effectivly in a 305 motor than if it was in a 350. You could use even more rear gear.

del91_305

Well, when i change the pump shot to the smaller stroke it goes lean, then when i set it on the middle stroke, it seems to work the best. I just found out that a had a pretty bad problem that i just fixed, had the rockers too tight and i bent the pushrods, so i fixed that and it is doing a whole lot better now. I have a tuning kit for the carb and i have played around with some different rods, then i emailed edelbrock and they said the 1406 should be ideal for my setup right out of the box, although im not gonna leave it at that, i will still mess with it some more, Ill check the linkage and stuff too, but i have been fooling with this thing for 2 or 3 months now, getting kind of frustrating, oh and plugs are brand new too

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

TOO MUCH STALL, but then again I have a 5,300 lbs truck running 15.9s @ 88 with a 305 and 3.73 gears. I have a 305 and a cam that is BIGGER than the one above. 224/224 @ .050 or the L82 cam. I can literally boil the tires with a 2,000 RPM stall. 2,000 was more than enough stall for this combination and he has less cam than me. The 214/224 cam in a 305 isn't much hotter in the 305 than it is in a 350. My L82 cam in my 305 peaks right were it should when it is compared to a 350 L82.

If you have decent compression, which you should have about 9.3:1 your engine will like about 32* total advance at 2,800 RPM.

F-BIRD'88

Get some tires that actually have some bite.

15.9 is slow. 13's are not out of the question with the right tires converter and gearing.

The stall is right. the tires need to bite for a car to launch and et. Not boil the tread off the tires.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

15.9 is in his gigantic van.... No idea why you drive a van, like geez, do you have a "free candy" sign on it




I like the MSD recurve kit. Easy to install. I used it on my stock GM non-cc dist, and I also shimmed the distributor gear for more consistent spark, and also put on an MSD timing tape on the balancer ($5.) I'm buying a balancer with the lines on it after this.

The kit I got had an adjustable vacuum can, (rate, and total amount of vacuum) as well as a handful of springs. No weights though, but you can use springs OR weights to do the same thing, it sets WHEN you get your mechanical advance in. You can't control the amount of mechanical advance, unless you modify the slots. I'm thinking of doing that, and using a set screw or something to make it adjustable.
I don't think you have enough cam to need that much initial advance, but that's just a thought.

Are you running ported or manifold vacuum on your vacuum advance?

Optimizing your timing can give great rewards, power, economy, and bragging rights that you've "dialed in" your car.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

link

If you want to know more about timing and vacuum etc, download, read, and enjoy the info in this directory.

Fast355

iTrader: (2)

First off 15.9s are not slow for what this is. IT IS NOT A CAR!!!! I would think that my tires have some bite since after all they a 29" tall tire. Its a sticky 275/60/R15 tire with 2,500 lbs and good weight transfer over them. BY lighting them boiling them I am meaning Powerbraking. It pulls a 2.19 second 60' time.

del91_305

I do not completely understand the concept of the stall convertor. Execpt for that when i powerbrake it the tires wont break loose right away, how does it effect anything other than that? People tell me that it should make some sort of noise but i have never heard it.

del91_305

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