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figured out why the car wasnt starting...now which fuel pump to buy?

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Old 11-30-2001, 07:36 PM
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figured out why the car wasnt starting...now which fuel pump to buy?

just like the subject says, except for the gritty little details that i had to spend 120 bucks for the dealer to diagnose it.

so the question is, what pump should i get? im looking thru the summit catalog right now and im wondering what would go best for my combo? the Carter is the most cost effictive, anyone have one on their car? Opinions would be nice.

also, i have a limited tool supply here at home, not to mention no help to call here at school( all my roomattes are academically sound, not camaro savvy)

i was looking thru the manual and it seems like a pretty direct swap, and i watched my dad pull out the old pump a few years back. should i attempt it, or pay to have it installed? BTW, whats the going labor rate a fuel pump install for a carb'd 86 camaro?

thanks

daniel

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86 camaro cpe(dont laugh)has 92z28 body kit with GTS covers, new red paint and a killer stereo. 2 amps, 8 speakers, disc changer, custom install with subs coming by the end of the summer. gm 350,TES headers, flowmaster cat back, performer manifold, TCI converter, jet chip, kn with dual snorkel cleaner. and she still passed the sniffer!

"Cal Poly SLO is the shi#"
Old 11-30-2001, 07:57 PM
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Car: 82 Berlinetta/57 Bel Air
Engine: LS1/LQ4
Transmission: 4L60E/4L80E
Axle/Gears: 12B-3.73/9"-3.89
The Summit pumps don't have the return line feature. You might miss that in the summer if you just plug the return line and use one of their performance pumps.

I've just got an AC replacement pump on mine, and it feeds my steroided 305 just fine.

The two trickiest parts about replacing the pump are:
1) Getting to it, since it is behind the smog pump, and;
2) Keeping the pump push rod (that runs off the cam) up out of the way while you put the new pump on. That is best accomplished by pulling out the bolt in the front of the block (holds the smog pump bracket on), pushing the rod up as far as it will go, TEMPORARILY and LIGHTLY installing a longer bolt in that hole to hold the rod in place, mounting the pump, then removing the long bolt and putting the original bolt back in.

It isn't an impossible task, even for a beginner, but can get a bit frustrating if the "tricks" of the job aren't understood. Don't know what a shop would charge to do it, but another $120 wouldn't surprise me.

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82 Berlinetta, orig V-6 car, now w/86 LG4/TH700R4, 2300 stall TC. Ported World 305 heads, Crane PowerMax 2050 cam. ZZ3/4 intake, oil pump, pan & baffle. Accel HEI SuperCoil & module. Hooker 2055 headers, 3" Catco cat & 3" catback w/dual-opposite Flowmaster 80. 2.93 limited slip. Spohn SFCs waiting to be installed. AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Daily year-round driver. Best ET, speed TBD...
57 Bel Air, my 1st car. '66 396, 9.7:1 forged TRWs, Weiand Action+, Holley 750VS w/4150 conversion, GK 270 cam, Magnum rockers, Jacobs Omnipack, 1-3/4" Hedders & 3" Warlocks, TH400 w/TCI Sat Night Special conv & Trans-Scat shift kit, MegaShifter, 3.08 8.2" 10-bolt w/Powertrax, AMSOIL syn lubes bumper-to-bumper. Idles smooth @ 700 RPM in D. Best 15.02/95.06 @ 5800' Bandimere (corrected 13.93/102.4 @ sea level).
Old 12-06-2001, 11:42 AM
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i think ill just go with the delco, seems like an appropraite buy. thx for the tip, i had the local auto parts guy explain to me a little more about that screw deal.

daniel
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