TRSCobra

Well, I decided on getting a lunati voodoo cam. But I want the one that will work best with my application. (mods in my sig) and I plan on getting a 2400-2800 stall converter by the end of the summer.

Here's directly off of their website:
60102 60102LK 262/268 219/227 .468"/.489" 112/108 Hyd/Hyd 1400-5800
60102 Description- Hydraulic: Mid-level performance street cam with excellent drivability. Exceptional replacement for "muscle car type cams" with automatic transmissions. Works well with stock type exhaust Manifolds and dual plane intake with mild 4 bbl carb. This is an Awesome 4X4 and performance marine cam where "Dry" exhaust is used. Improved valve springs and roller rockers recommended.
60103 60103LK 268/276 227/233 .489"/.504" 110/106 Hyd/Hyd 1800-6200
60103 Description- Hydraulic: The most awesome "268" cam ever produced Out-powers all others This High Performance street cam likes 2400 RPM stall, 700 cfm carb, dual plane intake and headers. Makes un-equaled power to 6200 RPM with proper valve springs. If you're looking for a Very Strong cam with great street manners for your "Crate Motor" this is it Factory EFI motors need custom chips/tuning.

1989GTATransAm

iTrader: (3)

The 2nd one for a 350. I have to agree that is quite a cam. A cam advertised at 268 duration is not large and considered a medium cam. However it is 227 degrees at .050". That is pretty fast on the opening. Looks like you get the best of both worlds. A big cam in a small package. Your best bet would be to use the valve springs they recomend to control that beast.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

I have the 60103. I'm just tuning the engine now (first fire up last night), and i've got a performer RPM manifold, headers, 3" exhaust, q-jet, ported 416s etc.
I think it's a good cam for your application.

TRSCobra

If I get the 60103, and I don't get a higher stall converter, will my 1/4 times suffer? Also, will my 600 cfm carb be enough for it (for now at least)??

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

What heads have you got? You need to have your heads flowed and use the results to choose a cam. Not to mention compression comes into play, which you didn't mention.

The second of those two cams is way too big for that cheesy converter. You'll want at least 3k for it.

Jim85IROC

iTrader: (2)

Hmm... I wonder how that 2nd cam would work on a 10:1 350 with an HSR and some SDPC Vortec heads with screw-in studs.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

if you're good at tuning.... It's a 110LSA...
motorwise it would rock, tuning might be tricky.

TRSCobra

The engine's a recon rebuilt engine with 67-70 327-350 heads. i know nothing about compression ratio or how the heads flow.

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

In that case, both of those cams would run like crap. Recon engines really aren't a good base for a performance build and those heads would just hold up progress.

If you're looking to build a mild bracket car that you can race on saturday nights, then you should start with a converter, gears, some suspension work and a good tire. Which is the way I would go. You'd have a pretty consistent little bracket car if you went that route.

TRSCobra

A recon engine is just like any other rebuilt engine. Explain why putting a cam into it would make it run like crap?

I'm sure people have put performance cams into engines with the same heads as mine and seen a difference.

I'm not trying to build the engine for performance. I just want a cam that'll work best with my rear end gears and a decent stall converter. Someday I'll buy aluminum heads and put them on.

...unless aftermarket heads wont bolt onto my recon block, that is