Help with Vortec intake gaskets
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Kingston, NH
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 2004 Wrangler Rubicon
Engine: 4.0
Transmission: NV3550
Axle/Gears: Dana 44s with 4.10 and air lockers
Help with Vortec intake gaskets
I just built a Vortec headed 350 and put it in my Trans Am, fired it up yesterday. Ran for about 3 minutes and had to shut it down because it was leaking coolant BADLY, both internally and externally. When I put the intake on I used the stock GM gaskets, and didn't use any sealer on the ports because they have the rubber o-rings built in. Apparently this was a bad idea.
Pulled the intake, cleaned it all up, applied RTV to the gasket around the coolant ports. Let it sit over night. Fired it up, and got about five minutes before coolant started dribbling down the front of the block. Apparently this doesn't work either.
What am I doing wrong? Neither method seems to want to seal my coolant passages. I don't want to keep putting the intake on just to have coolant leak into my oil again. I get the feeling the bearings and cam don't like it very much. Would switching to a Felpro gasket and gluing it to the heads and intake work better?
Pulled the intake, cleaned it all up, applied RTV to the gasket around the coolant ports. Let it sit over night. Fired it up, and got about five minutes before coolant started dribbling down the front of the block. Apparently this doesn't work either.
What am I doing wrong? Neither method seems to want to seal my coolant passages. I don't want to keep putting the intake on just to have coolant leak into my oil again. I get the feeling the bearings and cam don't like it very much. Would switching to a Felpro gasket and gluing it to the heads and intake work better?
#2
Senior Member
iTrader: (5)
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Richlands N.C.
Posts: 574
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: '92 RS
Engine: 350 carb'd
Transmission: T-5
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Ive worked on alot of Vortec motors and you dont need sealer around the ports. Thats why they have the o-ring type seal. Inspect the gaskets for cuts in the seals. How tight are you torking the intake bolts.
#3
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Kingston, NH
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 2004 Wrangler Rubicon
Engine: 4.0
Transmission: NV3550
Axle/Gears: Dana 44s with 4.10 and air lockers
I'm only using a 3/8 wrench on them. But I'm wondering if they may have been overtightened.
#5
Senior Member
Join Date: Jun 2001
Location: Saskatchewan
Posts: 920
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1986 Iroc
Engine: 454 Demon 850DP
Transmission: TH350, 3500 stall
Axle/Gears: 3.73
You may be over tightening the intake bolts. They are a very low torque 11ft lbs.
#6
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: Kingston, NH
Posts: 341
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 2004 Wrangler Rubicon
Engine: 4.0
Transmission: NV3550
Axle/Gears: Dana 44s with 4.10 and air lockers
Yeah, they're definitely tighter than that. But would tightening them to about 30 cause the oil to look like a milkshake after literally 2 minutes of run time?
#7
Supreme Member
Join Date: May 2003
Location: Toledo, OH
Posts: 1,995
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Car: 1992 Firebird
Engine: forged 357
Transmission: 700r4, 2200-2400 stall, vette servo
Axle/Gears: stock pegleg 2.73 drum (temp)
Originally Posted by ChevyGuy87
Yeah, they're definitely tighter than that. But would tightening them to about 30 cause the oil to look like a milkshake after literally 2 minutes of run time?
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
1992 Trans Am
History / Originality
27
05-10-2023 07:19 PM
Fast355
DFI and ECM
14
12-02-2016 06:33 PM
355tpipickup
Alternative Port EFI Intakes
3
08-29-2015 10:47 PM