Snowblind

iTrader: (1)

It all started when my radiator started leaking, i replaced it with a new one and had no problem, nothing to remove except the air intake ducting. I put it all back together within an hour only to turn the key and nothing happen, no crank and the fuel pump wouldnt go on. Everything works on the car except the fuel pump electrically. Lights, dash, and solenoid are all in good shape. I have been tracking all the wires to see if one wasnt getting juice to see if that would be causing it not to ground but thats not the case, there are quite a few grounds near the radiator but there all still connected and in good shape, i have no clue what i did to it! So for the past 3 days ive put a new ignition switch in it just because the fuel pump and anti theft for crank wires go off the ignition but to no avail. Then i removed the anti theft feature for the key pellot system under the dash and have ordered a new one. Ive bypassed the feature and it now cranks...

When i put it back it doesnt work, the ignition switch is soldered like it is supposed to be so i dont think its a faulty pellot.

-I havent checked all the grounds yet but im working on it.

-Could it be the Mass Airflow Sensor? that was the only thing i disconnected to put the new radiator in

-Checked spark and juice, all good.

-fuel pump in good shape, so is fuel filter.

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

does it turn over but not start or do nothing when you try to start it?

Snowblind

iTrader: (1)

does nothing when i try to start it. No crank, but everything electrical in the car works, fuel pump, headlights, interior lights, etc.

SpitotRs305

on the passenger side of the rad. there is a power post between the battery and the rad with a bunch of whires on it i believe you should check those out

Dialed_In

iTrader: (3)

sounds like the starter relay took a dump. Look behind the drivers side kick panel. Don't ask me why they put it there, but that's where to find it. Try jumping the terminals. That's the relay that sends 12v to the switch on the solenoid.

Snowblind

iTrader: (1)

we have a new relay ordered, its supposed to come in tommorow. We found the relay like where u said about 3 days ago and bypassed it nd jumped the terminals and got it to crank, BUT it only starts for a second, once u let off the key to run it dies. Does your relay have 4 wires coming into it?

smithtc

iTrader: (5)

When you remove VATS equipment...you have to disable it in the computer...otherwise, it sorta still works. You have bypassed the Vats equipment and possibly get it to start to run because of some leaking fuel injectors, or whatever...but the signal to the injectors is still disabled due to the VATS in the actual computer.

Just a thought.

Snowblind

iTrader: (1)

how would i go about disabling VATS in the computer(ECM)?

fire350tpi

New chip with it eliminated

Snowblind

iTrader: (1)

hmm. well the part is due in today so ill pass on that for now. How do i check to see if the injectors are leaking? Since that could be something i need to fix after i get her running again.

Snowblind

iTrader: (1)

new starter relay didnt do it. I feel like my brain has been tenderized, i dont know what to do except check the mass airflow sensor

SpitotRs305

the car will run without a MAF might not run beautiful but it will run

you NEED to check the power post on the passenger side of the radiator support and make sure there is power there and to all of the wires that mount to it...

again NO it is not the MAF

Snowblind

iTrader: (1)

checked the power post and grounds, even sanded them down. No luck. :/

Snowblind

iTrader: (1)

CODE 46!! its the VATS, but i dont know what in the VATS it is?

- Poor electrical connection
- Open or short in circuit
- Incorrect ignition key or starting procedure.
- Defective VATS module
- Defective ECM

fire350tpi

The Most Comon Problem i see with vats/ and or Passkey II is that the contacts in the ignition cylinder wear out and dont show the right resistance or dont even contact it making the vats module/box disable fuel

Easiest Fix, Find the ( i believe) 2 white wires (check wiring diagrams though could be wrong on colors!) surround by a orange tube under the dash heading towards the steering column ( forgot what connector) cut the orange tube and then cut the white wire's and find the resistance of the resistor in the key, Get a resister from wherever and solder it from one white wire to the other.
Then wrap it with some electrical tape and shuv it somewhere safe and secure it.

then Start her up!

Snowblind

iTrader: (1)

just did it using the thirdgn tech article section on the VATS system. my resistance is 886-889. Didnt do the trick, Have to look at the VATS module and check the connecters their according to the article.

https://www.thirdgen.org/vats_passkey_system

SpitotRs305

i find it a little unlikely that the same moment you were changing your radiator your vats system broke down.... and that the new ignition didnt solve the problem with it so having put the resistor in you have only proven again that there is nothing physically wrong with the vats...i would be looking at your wiring of the ignition and anything around the radiator as the explenation

snakeskinner

I'm not sure this is your problem but an easy inspection.. On the driver's side of the radiator there is a large two wire connector on the core support that is a fuse holder.. I can't remember what all years had this but my cousin's 89 Formula had a problem with this being corroded.. I believe this was the fuel pump fuse (could be wrong, it's been awhile).. this is the only thing I can think of that you might have messed up doing a radiator.. Kyle