Synful

I want to make that fuel pump access hatch panel thing that I've read a ton about during searches. I think I can do a good job. We have a welder and various cutting tools to use. I have one concern though.

In all of the jobs I have seen, they cut the hard fuel lines it order to replace the fuel pump. Has anyone done this where they did not have to cut the fuel lines? I really really do not want to be messing with cutting hard fuel lines especially near the tank. Call it superstition, or misinformed, but it just doesn't seem appealing to me.

I have problems with my car when its considered 'cold'. It hesitates a ton, just the other morning, I have the throttle half open and the car was not responding AT ALL. The previous owner acknowledged this and said he usually just replaces the fuel filter every month or so, but I've done that and it hasn't really helped. It's good practice, but you really shouldn't have to replace that filter every month. So I'm wanting to replace the fuel pump and I'm getting the injectors serviced too so those will be good.

Thanks for any help

Red Devil

If you "think" you'll do a good job you have no chance of doing any such thing.

No, you have to cut the lines unless you do it the right way and drop the tank.

Diagnose the problem instead of changing parts randomly.

Synful

thanks for the help buddy.

anyone else got tips?

slackett1

tip...

Unless your pump is dead....why on earth would your wish to change your fuel pump. If it's running leave it alone. Change it when it finally does die...and change it the right way.

Another tip, what Red Devil said. If you want to cut an access panel and still be able to properly disconnect the fuel lines, your gonna have to cut a massive hole...probably one that covers the same area as the back drivers side seat

Synful

okay, thank you, someone actually answered a question. ;\

If I have to cut the fuel lines, then I don't want to do the access panel. I was hoping for only doing a 6"x6" hole and using a summit hatch panel door to fill it but forget that. I will now have to figure out what is involved in dropping the tank.

I want to change my fuel pump because I think it's almost dead. I'm getting low PSI at the schrader valve. Why don't I wait until its 100% dead? The same reason you don't wait for other things on your car to completely stop working. Why on earth would you want to be stranded somewhere without a replacement part, and without tools, possibly blocking traffic and being a big pain in the *** to everyone else, when you can do some preventative work?

Besides, dunno about you, but I enjoy working on cars on the weekend, all weekend, whenever I get the chance to do something to it. I cringe at the thought of having to completely remove the rear end of the car, as I just did that almost by changing out the springs and struts, but I'm going to do it.

Hell....I need new exhaust anyways, this might be a double purpose project, who knows.

TPI

My L98 car had a hatch cut out by the previous
owner, And I happen to find that out the hard way.

Upon finding the hatch though, my hardlines were still
intact much to my surprise.

Since I ended up dropping the rear end alittle bit to
get to the tank, due to the fact I didnt know I had
the fuel pump access cut out already.

I dont know why people think they have to remove
the rear axle from the car...

Get the car on some tall jack stands and drop that
rear low with a nice hydraulic floor jack, lay down & use
that sucker as a headrest and start unbolting brake and
fuel hardlines, a few hoses and remove the tank straps
completely.. and YANK!

Tank was almost 1/2 full and It still slid out.

Thats what I did.. I left the shocks hanging, and
pushed the exhaust over as far as it could. Pretty
much everything else in place.

It helps to be a small fella though

Installing was easier, the tank was empty!

slackett1

TPI...I dont believe it...

Exhaust is in the way, driveshaft is in the way, rear frame brace is in the way, heat shields are in the way, ebrake cables.....

Synful

alright cool,

so all i have to do is let the rear hang all the way, unbolt some lines and hoses, push the exhaust out of the way, and i can pull it out?

maybe i should just replace the whole friggen tank with a new one since i'm doing all of this.

TPI

Its alittle trickier than that, but simple enough.


Get that exhaust as far over as you can, and
the jack in the center.


See all that room? plenty! my pictures are
mirrored by a cell phone so everything is
backwards looking.

The biggest trick is the tank neck. It needs to
be bent down in order to snake the tank out..
Use a long pipe of some sort.

Like this one! ..a jack pipe works

And push down as far as you can with breaking
the filler neck.

You should be good after that.

Get a buddy to help installing, it goes by quicker

TPI

Dont forget to unbolt the rear TQ arm above the
rear end assembly, Let the bottom arm dangle and
remove the top arm (seen vaguely in Pic #2)

*I should credit Supervisor42 & Five7Kid
for all of the pump removal info*

Oh, the heat shields were too removed! everyone
of them.

Driveshaft does NOT have to be pulled..
Nor does the E-brake cable! That rear-end
aint that far down..

slackett1

I'll be danged...

The only concerning part is...just how much do you bend the neck before you break the solder joint.

If I figure that picture right, the only thing you didnt do was disconnect the LCA's and the ebrake cables.

Is that a gunmetal grey?

TPI

Yea, My filler neck was just about broken previously. I had
to be very careful.. It only needs to come down a inch or so for it to to angle itself out.

Yea it's a gun metal grey with smoke grey GFX.

Its going in for paint in a month for more metal flake!

slackett1

Ah...same as mine. Cept I have the 305 TPI...

Mine has ~300k miles, original motor and tranny. Everything in it is factory, and works, nothing has been molested. Lookin a bit rough inside, needs paint but still kicking.

Its been my daily driver for 7 years

TPI

Sorry to steal your colors

I wanted to go artic white.. but It must remain as
the high school "relic" it is.

Everything factory but.. the engine. I need interior too!

Paint is alittle rough but, she still looks good

Daily driver as well, gotta love the TPI!

TPI

I should warn you, You have to either unbolt
or sawzall your exhaust before or after the cat
in order to position the exhaust..like shown in
the picture.

Since you want a new exhaust, I wouldnt
hesitate cutting the muffler down just to
get it out of the way.. frees up alot of room.

I wouldnt reccomend so if your going
to drive the car soon after the swap.

The muffler/pipe has to be able to move around quite a bit.

Also before you do the filler neck trick.. Remove the plastic shroud around the filler before you push..

Whence you get under the car, it is common
sense what needs to be done to get the tank out.

Just dont hurry yourself, stuff can and will break!

..And dont let that car fall on you!

Ive heard some fuel pump swap horror stories.

Apeiron

You're sure it's not the FPR?

Red Devil

You may not like it, but your wants do not change the facts. I gave you exactly the advice you asked for. The fact that you didn't want to hear it does not concern me. Hell, considering what you paid for the advice you shouldn't complain.

As for the pump dying, I've seen far too many people take readings incorrectly, find weak grounds, faulty relays, clogged filters, etc. that fudge their readings. Unless you have truly diagnosed it, you really are just swapping parts and may be giving yourself a headache for no reason, but hey, it's not my time nor money.

slackett1

For the second time in this thread.

My pump was deader than a doornail. But...

I spent more time tracing wires with a voltage tester than it took me to unbolt my rearend and swap the pump. I had to be 100 percent sure it wasn't something simple before I took the plunge and unbolted my rear end.

Too many risks involved, especially if you have limited tools, money and time. A 75 dollar DIY pump swap can quickly turn into a several hundred dollar job.

Lets see:
-will ya have to cut your exhaust, gonna have to pay to replace that
-break your tank fill neck solder joint...another unnecessary repair
-break a bolt, fuel line...nickle and dime you to death
-mess up the sending unit...that'll cost ya
-every knuckle on both your hands...busted
-not to mention the 15+ years of road grime you will have to eat while under there

Synful

okay buddy thanks for the help...


anyways back to pressing matters

Seeing how much brand new tanks cost I think I will just attempt to clean my old one. How should I go about this? I don't want any residual cleaner leftover inside. Anyone know good cleaning solution?

I have tons of tools and I know how to use them. I am small and can manuever very easily working on the car I've found. I'm very relieved that this will be easier than I thought to drop the tank. Now I just need to figure out how to do this all at once. Probably will remove the tank, clean it, and reinstall on a friday. I will weld back on the exhaust I chop off, and drive it to a custom exhaust shop on a saturday for cat back exhaust. Maybe I should just go ahead and get a full new exhaust setup, headers back. Hmm hmm hmm.

TPI

You are absolutely correct on the first statement. Things can and often do go sour, which ends up costing you coin.

However, the last two statements are misleading..

You wont break the filler neck if you easily nudge
it into position, it will bend back..

You dont have to mutilate the exhaust to get it
done. If done correctly, one clean MIG bead or a
exhaust compression clamp patches it right up.

Guest

I didnt cut my exhaust, and didnt bend my filler neck either. I did, however, bend a brace on the car behind the plastic shroud for the gas cap. Get the right twist on the tank, comes right out (as if any of that was easy. lol).

If you're set on replacing the pump, I'd advise taking off the clip for the rear brake line from the body side otherwise you may overstress the rubber line and damage it. If its your first time in there, its going to take a while to do the job. If your car is rusty, my condolences. Use lots of your favorite stuff in advance to make the rusted stuff a little easier to deal with.

What do you plan on cleaning the tank with, and why? Wash it out with some gas then you dont have to worry about whats left in there. If its so bad it needs some other type of cleaner, maybe you should get a new/good used tank.

Synful

california car, only surface rust.

i don't know what I plan on cleaning the tank with, i was wondering if anyone knew of some stuff to use. I found new tanks for 700$ but i don't want to spend that much on a new one. Fuel filter gets clogged often, so I think the tank is dirty or something I dunno. I ran seafoam through the tank once and replaced the filter a while after that and it still clogs up.

Red Devil

Precisley why you got the answers I gave, every place I check have the new tanks listed for about a third of what you quoted. Big surprise. You're welcome.

Synful

okay bro thanks for the help.

anyone know of anything other than seafoam I can clean the tank with?