Tech / General EngineWhy is my car making that sound? My car won't start! Combination questions? Don't see a board for your problem or have other technical or engine specific questions? Post them here!
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Water boils at 212F. A pressurized cooling system increases the boiling point depending on the pressure the cap is rated at. It's usually 15 psi. At 240, the coolant is probably right around that boiling point.
All engines operate in the 160-195F range. A cool engine makes more power but also makes a lot more emissions. EFI engines operate at 195F mainly to lower the emissions. They're usually allowed to run up to 205 before cooling fans kick in. An average, all around operating temperature for all engines is 180F. Doesn't matter if it's a tiny 4 cylinder or a monster big block.
A thermostat circulates coolant inside the engine until it reaches operating temperature. It then opens allowing the coolant to circulate through the rad where the temperature is maintained. If the thermostat doesn't open the engine will overheat. Once at operating temperature and the thermostat is open, if it still overheats there can be any number of reasons why such as;
Plugged circulation system including the rad
Electric fans not working
Fuel system running lean
Bad head gasket
Water boils at 212F. A pressurized cooling system increases the boiling point depending on the pressure the cap is rated at. It's usually 15 psi. At 240, the coolant is probably right around that boiling point.
All engines operate in the 160-195F range. A cool engine makes more power but also makes a lot more emissions. EFI engines operate at 195F mainly to lower the emissions. They're usually allowed to run up to 205 before cooling fans kick in. An average, all around operating temperature for all engines is 180F. Doesn't matter if it's a tiny 4 cylinder or a monster big block.
A thermostat circulates coolant inside the engine until it reaches operating temperature. It then opens allowing the coolant to circulate through the rad where the temperature is maintained. If the thermostat doesn't open the engine will overheat. Once at operating temperature and the thermostat is open, if it still overheats there can be any number of reasons why such as;
Plugged circulation system including the rad
Electric fans not working
Fuel system running lean
Bad head gasket
Thank you for your response.
My whole cooling system is basically new: water pump (heavy duty), hoses, radiator, rad cap, flused heater core (good flow now), fail safe thermostat (180), coolant. now one thing that may not be correct is that my left fan is always running, hot or cold, the same speed, and the right one never comes on. Any ideas if this is wrong or what else? Also its got a new fuel system: pump, strainer, filter, injectors, o rings.. so that probably isn't the issue.. also plugs wires cap rotor module coil. I get good coolant flow all the way through judging from squeezing the hoses
When the engine is cold/cool, take the rad cap off and fire the engine up letting it warm up. Lots of bubbles usually indicates a bad head gasket or a cracked head feeding compression into the cooling system. Rev up the engine a couple of times, the coolant level shouldn't fluctuate very much and it shouldn't blow coolant out the rad.
If the temperature is too hot the one fan will stay running because it can't bring the temperature down. The second fan will also automatically kick in at a higher temperature. Somewhere in the 230-250 range.
Do you have the "chin spoiler" bolted up underneath the radiator support? It's a block plastic air dam, basically. It makes a big difference in cooling at highway speeds and even some difference in low speed light-to-light driving.
i agree on the air dam, when my formula didn't have one on it it would run hot all the time. i thought i had shot my head gaskets but after i put the air damn () back on it was all fine..
__________________ '84 T/A HO 5speed, freshly rebuilt L69
'89 Formula, somewhat modded L03 and soon T56+3.73
do not confuse a lack of traction with an excess of torque
i agree on the air dam, when my formula didn't have one on it it would run hot all the time. i thought i had shot my head gaskets but after i put the air damn () back on it was all fine..
I have my air dam on, and when the gauge indicates 240 the other fan still isn't on.. so if the switch for the second fan is working perhaps the gauge is faulty.
Agreed. At 240 you should be close to showing signs of actual boiling-over. Buy a new sender (the gagues is run by the sender in the cylincer head between the #1 and #3 spark plugs) and see if there is any difference.
Also, if you have access to a scan tool see what the ECM temp reading is and compare it to your dash temp gagues (they use different sensors to get theor reading).
Agreed. At 240 you should be close to showing signs of actual boiling-over. Buy a new sender (the gagues is run by the sender in the cylincer head between the #1 and #3 spark plugs) and see if there is any difference.
Also, if you have access to a scan tool see what the ECM temp reading is and compare it to your dash temp gagues (they use different sensors to get theor reading).
3rd gen gagues are notiriously inaccurate.
The sender is already new, but i'll check into the ecm temp reading. Thank you
) back on it was all fine.. 
