closer

I just replaced my injectors and the car runs great! Now I'm on to the task of figuring out why it runs hot (over 220). But it runs over 220 at idle sitting still with the fan on.
Here's what's got me questioning a BHG. I have none of the cooling system hooked up. I flushed everything while I had it apart for the injector swap. Everything flows well. But I have the thermostat housing off of the car. And I started the car to check for fuel leaks. And within 30 seconds of the car running I could see steam/smoke(?) coming from where the thermostat goes. Could it just be leftover water in the engine steaming? Or possibly exhaust gas leaking by the headgaskets?
I understand your not susposed to run a motor without the cooling system hooked up. But I let it run no longer that a minute or so. What do you guys think? Anyone else seen this?

transam85dudeman

did it smell sweet? or like gas. id run it again. maybe even take blower to the engine to help evaporate the possibility of water. . just a tip feel pro make a reusable gasket the tstat called perma-dry no sealant needed. ..oh if its going to blow,.shes going to blow. might want to try copper head gaskets.

SpitotRs305

i am not sure i see the problem.


figuring your car is stock as you havent made any hint to it being otherwise 220 is not out of the question... as stock the fans only turn on around 238 or something close especailly sitting still idling that temp wouldnt scar me...

now for some reason you decided to check for a fuel leak while you had the cooling system dismantled by starting the engine... it ran for some unknown amount of time and you started to see what you believed to be exhaust gases when the possiblity of it just being steam is much greater...


BTW there is NO reason to run copper head gaskets on anything stock like this

closer

(SpitoRs305) Yea, the car is stock. And the wirings all hacked up so I actually have a fuse under the hood to turn the fan on before i start the car. Until I get that part of the wiring figured out.
And the second statment is what I'm talking about. I figured it was steam. But was worried (It seems like it has been no end to this car).
And I've had a turbo supra for awhile before this car. And I know copper gaskets are overkill for a stock car. I guess that's why I was worried too... That damn car was a pain to keep a headgasket in.

SpitotRs305

the fans in the car are real simple and generally people see the temp up around 220 and get nervous as they know WATER boils at 212

now first we aren't dealing with straight water but a mix so that will affect boiling point also the system is pressurized at 15lbs which further raises the boiling point of the coolant

but when people see that 220-240 they start getting scared and create all sorts of way to keep that fan on when it isn't needed..

the system is simple there is a sensor in the passenger side head i believe it turns the fan on when the engine reaches the right temp it needs to be intact and connected for the fans to turn on second there is a relay by the brake booster that is needed for the fans to work properly

my suggestion is to reconnect the fans the proper way get rid of that fuse then run the car if a problem crops up after the fans are wired correctly trouble shoot that problem as what you have now is most likely a band aid or completely unnecessary

transam85dudeman

actaully the fan sensor is under the 6th and 8th cylinder spark plugs passenger block, above the knock sensor. typically the connector's plastic cracks and seperates. the connector is same as the knock sensor. Napa sells them both same ##'s. Theres three coolant sensors(1.fan switch passenger block, 2.engine coolant sensor front block, 3. dash sensor drivers side block. I got an IR thermometer great for engine diagnosing.

SpitotRs305

the only one that has anything to do with the fans it the one on the pass side head

closer

I have changed both sensors. And somone before me literally cut the wiring harness out of the car for the fans. I don't know why... I just know it's not in the compartment anymore. But when I say hot. It does go over the 220 mark at a stand still. And I don't drive it on the road. Because of all the other underlying problems that I have been sorting out on the car.
And I have also read and understand that our cars run around 220 normally. But mine will go up into the red if I'm not watching it close. I still don't think I got the right temp sensor from the parts store. Because it doesn't feel overheated in the engine compartment.
Anyways... Has anybody ever pulled the back cover off of their water pump to look at the fins? I'm trying to make sure the idiot before me put the right direction flow water pump on it. I pulled mine off and it was really rusty. Probably because the car sat in a barn for 3 years. Is there any additives you can run throught the block to dissolve the rust? Something like CalciumLimeRust work?

SpitotRs305

well the water pump rotation depends on whether it is a serp of V belt set up

and there are a lot of things that can cause the car to get that hot...

radiator cap
low coolant flow/no coolant flow
sediment in the radiator/rust from the block
fan wired backwards
bad thermostat/no thermostat

closer

The cars and '85 iroc with a 305. And it has a v-belt to the power sterring pump and a serpintine belt to the alt. And I have read that the '85 and older were a clockwise rotation pump and the serpintine system was counter-clockwise. But I know my belt runs the pump clockwise. But I don't know which way the pump is pumping?... even if that matters I guess. I'll just put my new pump on and see where the car stands.
Anyone know what to flush the motor out with to help git rid of rust and other poop in there?

closer

Well... I got the new water pump on and most of the wiring back in wire looms today. I also flushed out the block, radiator, and heater core with "CLR" and got alot more crap out of all of it. I fired her up and she didn't get hot. She ran normal temp without the fan even on. She's a mosquito killer because of the bad valve seals. But at least I think I can finally get plates and registration on it.
And I think I was just too cautious of a blown headgasket. Hopefully the motor will last until I can get my 350 rebuilt this winter. YAY!!!!!