matthufham

iTrader: (5)

wanted to make this topic for future searches

got some new 3 wire heated oxygen sensors. 1 for me 1 for my friend. we both have v8's with headers. headers don't heat the o2 sensor as much as stock manifolds. a heated (3 wire) o2 sensor heats the o2 itself, this way it won't produce the wrong reading to the computer. it should help idle and fuel mileage.

you can get bosch 13077, denso 234-3094, delco afs-74 and many other brands and universals. these fit a lot of cars so the plug is generic and you can find the female side of the plug from many suppliers and junkyards.

these run 50 bucks or so, the install is easy, the fuel mileage gets increased, the cold idle is much better, plus new a part prevents code 44 (o2 sensor) from bugging you for a long time.

this is my main point of the post. all these topics on here about 3 wires, "how do i wire it" are simply explained. all universal 3 wire o2 sensors will have 2 wires one color, the other wire a different color. the 2 that are the same color are ground and power for the heater and it doens't matter which one is which. so ground to the motor, power from the gray wire on the fuel pump, or anywhere you want to pull 12 volts while the car is running. i have a dedicated fan relay that doesn't use the ecm and runs off the key, so thats where i went. the different color wire goes to the stock sensor wire, it's the signal.

here's a small comparison list, i know Ford and Chrysler products use 3 wire o2 sensors but if you stick with the gm ones you can get a gm plug to fit and keep the mixed breeding down.
BUICK REGAL CUSTOM 1993
BUICK REGAL LIMITED 1993
CHEVROLET ASTRO (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET BLAZER (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET C1500 PICKUP 1992
CHEVROLET C1500 SUBURBAN (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET C2500 PICKUP 1992
CHEVROLET C2500 SUBURBAN (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET CAPRICE 1992
CHEVROLET CAPRICE CLASSIC 1993
CHEVROLET CORVETTE ZR-1 (1990 - 1995)
CHEVROLET G10 VAN (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET G10 VAN SPORTVAN (1992 - 1993)
CHEVROLET G20 VAN (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET G20 VAN SPORTVAN (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET G30 VAN (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET K1500 PICKUP 1992
CHEVROLET K1500 SUBURBAN (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET K2500 PICKUP 1992
CHEVROLET K2500 SUBURBAN (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET LUMINA 1993
CHEVROLET LUMINA EURO 1993
CHEVROLET S10 BLAZER (1992 - 1994)
CHEVROLET S10 PICKUP (1992 - 1995)
GMC C1500 PICKUP SIERRA (1992 - 1994)
GMC C1500 PICKUP SIERRA XC (1992 - 1994)
GMC C1500 SUBURBAN (1992 - 1994)
GMC C2500 PICKUP SIERRA (1992 - 1994)
GMC C2500 PICKUP SIERRA XC (1992 - 1994)
GMC C2500 SUBURBAN (1992 - 1994)
GMC C3500 PICKUP SIERRA (1992 - 1994)
GMC C3500 PICKUP SIERRA XC (1992 - 1994)
GMC G15/G1500 VAN RALLY (1992 - 1993)
GMC G15/G1500 VAN VANDURA (1992 - 1994)
GMC G25/G2500 VAN RALLY (1992 - 1994)
GMC G25/G2500 VAN VANDURA (1992 - 1994)
GMC G35/G3500 VAN VANDURA (1992 - 1994)
GMC K1500 PICKUP SIERRA (1992 - 1994)
GMC K1500 PICKUP SIERRA XC (1992 - 1994)
GMC K1500 SUBURBAN (1992 - 1994)
GMC K2500 PICKUP SIERRA (1992 - 1994)
GMC K2500 PICKUP SIERRA XC (1992 - 1994)
GMC K2500 SUBURBAN (1992 - 1994)
GMC K3500 PICKUP SIERRA (1992 - 1994)
GMC K3500 PICKUP SIERRA XC (1992 - 1994)
GMC S15 JIMMY (1992 - 1994)
GMC SAFARI (1992 - 1994)
GMC SAFARI XT (1992 - 1994)
GMC SONOMA (1992 - 1995)
GMC SONOMA GT 1992
GMC YUKON (1992 - 1994)
OLDSMOBILE BRAVADA (1992 - 1994)
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME 1993
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME INTERNATIONAL 1993
OLDSMOBILE CUTLASS SUPREME S 1993
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX GT 1993
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX LE 1993
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX SE 1993
PONTIAC GRAND PRIX STE 1993

aammcc

What about actually connecting? There are discussions about whether you solder or crimp. Some say you should only crimp the signal wire and not solder because it will increase resistance and reduce voltage which is the same as an inaccurate signal. Some say that you can't get a good connection if you don't solder, etc, etc. It's probably more criticle for the signal wire going to the ECM then the ground or power wire. Which did you do, solder or crimp? I mean if you reuse an old plug from the single wire O2 sensor, you might still have to solder it to for it to stay right?

matthufham

iTrader: (5)

from a bosch article i read once about their universal series, they claimed you shouldn't solder the wires. i used butt connectors and removed the original disconnect. i didn't use a harness plug, it's just all butt connections. no problems yet

Rayzor32

iTrader: (1)

Interested in how this is working, in OBDII cars the HO2S heater is duty cycled by the pcm to prevent it from overheating and failing. If it fails it sets a code.
If you just hook it up to battery voltage it seems to me it would overheat and fail and you would never know if the heater circuit was working or not.

matthufham

iTrader: (5)

um, not sure actually about that. can you feel it from the outside to tell if the heater's working?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Umm, no its not. 4 wires sensors have two signal wires, and two wires for the heater. IGN and grd. The entire time the IGN is on, the sensor heater is going

Yes, flick the IGN on and come back in 5 minutes. It should be very hot

Awesome-X

So Pocket, would the sensor be hooked up correctly if its hooked to an ignition source? It wouldn't burn out or anything?

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Thats right. Fused or unprotected is fine. Ive spiked quite a bit of amps through some and they're still kept right on working. OEM uses a 10A fuse per pair if you're ****. For my harnesses, I hook them to the old emissions common wire at the C100. The stock 10A fuse is plenty to run them

LVZ2881

Funny, I was just talking to a buddy yesterday about this...

could switching to a heated 02 help my car?? It seems to run rich @ idle, have Hooker shorties installed, and with the fuel pressure down to 40psi with the key on, its still running rich to the point where the plugs smell like fuel and are still wet??

rgarcia63

It seems that if you have headers a heated O2 is a given. I had similar problems that were solved when I converted to a heated one, especially idle quality.

lo-z

Yes, I would do the heated sensor for sure, you need that. That should fix it.
Here is what I used. It's a little more expensive but it's already adapted to fit a single wire setup, just slap it in.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CEI-103025/

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

That looks really expensive until you see it comes with the HO2. JY shoppers can do the same for under $10, but for new stuff thats a good deal

lo-z

If you prefer to do your own wiring, you can get this one. Fits alot of GM cars. I think it's the same as mentioned in the top post.
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...zer&vi=1050703

Jeff383z

Just an FYI to an old post... The heater IS controlled by the PCM on obdII cars including GM. One of the heater wires is connected directly to ign+ the second runs to PCM which supplies ground when needed (@ idle and upon start up for predesignated amount of time.) This is required by the obd 2 spec to be able to self test the functionality of the heater, and why p0053,p0054, and subsequent heater malfunction codes exist.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

3 wire sensor used by 3rd gens are not included in this. You're describing the newer 4 wire white connector isolated ground HO2s. None of the 4 wire HO2s are compatible, case grounded or isolated

More info on them
http://www.lt1swap.com/vortec_o2_sensors.htm

If you move up to a OBDII PCM control on your TPI, then you need to think about which type of O2 to use. I generally default to the early case grounded for everything because they're cheap, common, efficient and less complex to wire in

srtmedic

if you have replaced the o2 sensor, is it still possible that one of the 3 wires from the truck side of the connector going to the computer and the other 2 components are bad causing rough idling issues and not really wanting to run during rain.

Pocket

iTrader: (24)

Probably not. Moisture in the air causing idle problems sounds like a MAF or IAT issue

The ECM wire for oxygen sensors doesnt change with the heater on or off. The heater brings the sensor tip up to operating temp ASAP for quicker closed loop operation

hellz_wings

iTrader: (2)

Ok.. I've had a 3 wire oxygen sensor since June and it was working fine, and the car was running fine until last week, my fans stopped turning on so I brought it in to the garage.. I also decided to install a non-AIR catalytic converter (I had a gutted cat prior to this) as well as a TUFF power steering pump at the same time (probably not related, but just mentioning for the sake of mentioning all possible problems).

They changed the fan relay and the pigtail for the wiring and they said that was the problem.. Upon leaving the garage, the car idled a bit difference but I figured the ECM was getting used to have a cat in the system, but I noticed check engine light go on temporarily and then it went away.. I didn't have my tuning stuff plugged in so I just made nothing of it, drove away and all was good as I drove on the highway right away and to work.

When I got to work I let the car idle until the fans are usually supposed to kick in (they don't kick in on the highway because it's cold here, around 10 degrees celcius now) and they don't turn on! The temps went up to 220 then I shut it off and got really pissed but drive the car home after letting it cool off and then plugged in my tuning stuff to see what that odd check engine light was.. I don't know if it's related to the fans but there was a "CODE 44" which Tuner PRO calls a "O2 LEAN" code..

I googled this code and found this thread and it's just as I thought, related to the O2 sensor.. I already checked the wiring and it's grounded properly, plugged in.. It seems.. Is there something I'm missing here? Could a relay have gone bad for this? Could installing new fan relay/pigtail mess up the O2? Or does the new non-AIR cat have something to do with it?

EDIT: Just to note, Tuner PRO registered my BLM's around 145 and up at IDLE and it seemed to be just stuck there until I pressed on the gas which then lowered it to 137 or so but as soon as I let off the gas, back up to 145 (in the red). The mv were low as well (I think around 0.008 or so which is extremely lean?)

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the list Matt!