Matt1821

Hey everyone, Its me, Matt, again. And of course, as always, I have another problem, and need your help once again to fix it!

Dont you just love when you walk out to your car, open the door, sit down, get situated, turn the key, and it just keeps cranking and cranking and cranking, so you give it a little gas to start it up and it stumbles onto its face!? I sure DONT!

I got it to start but it Idles incredibly ROUGH, so bad that it was on the very BRINK of cutting out. I went around to the motor and maunally opened the EGR, to ensure it wasnt stuck, sure enough. . . It wasnt, as soon as it opened it killed the engine. I pulled codes and got a TON! 23, 32, 33, 34, 44, and 54.

This sucks so bad. I just replaced the MAP sensor the day before this happened (it was running a little rough from sitting so long) So I figured the new MAP sensor and some De-carb, and I would be good to go. Guess Not!

I Can fix pretty much anything, but the problem for me is diagnosing. I went out and bought a book that tells me the possibilitys for the codes to happen. Still doesnt really help me, just points me in a direction and thats it.

Here they are:

-23
MAT sensor {Voltage High/Low}
or
TPS error
or
Mixture Control (M/C) Solenoid open or short

-32
BARO sensor faillure
or
EGR stuck closed or open
or
EGR

-33
MAF sensor (voltage high/low)
or
MAP sensor (voltage high during idle)
^has a side not that said (Note: Engine mis-fire or unstable idle may cause this code) <<<<I HAVE THAT! ! !

-34
MAF (voltage low during engine "cruise"?) Didnt get THAT far!
or
MAP sensor voltage low during ignition on {possibly}
or
Pressure sensor voltage (high/low) (carburator engines)

-44
Lean exhaust indication-O2 sensor voltage stays low after one or two minutes of engine run

-54
Low fuel pump voltage
or
Fuel pump relay
or
EGR sol. No. 2 Failure
or
Quad-driver Module Failure
or
Mixture Control (m/c) sol. voltage (too high)

I dont know guys, This isnt lookin good. I dont even know where to start, and I feel a bit over-whelmed. Any help would be appreciated.

OH! And dont let me forget. For some reason, there are large pools of fuel in my injection cylenders under the butterfly valves. Also, theres fuel leaking from somewhere on the tbi, its on the left side, and puddling up in the grooves on the block. DAMN IT! If its not one thing its another!

Thanks guys
-Matt

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

You won the jackpot
See that you have been fiddling with things ,disconnect the battery to clear the codes and see what comes up again

rgarcia63

You are flooding, remove injector fuse(s.) crank for a minute to blow out fuel in intake and cylinders.
Soak up leaked fuel on manifold, and let sit for a few hours to dry out.
In the mean time take battery to parts store to test and recharge if needed.
Codes will be erased when battery is removed, reconnect battery. Install injector fuse(s), turn key on, but do not start, and check injectors for leakage, if none try starting engine. Do not press accelerator for any reason unless to rev when engine starts. Allow to warm up.
Post back before doing anything else, list codes if any.

Matt1821

Where are the injector fuses at? Couldn't I just unplug the injectors themselves?

rgarcia63

Yes you can.

Matt1821

Ok, looks like my passenger side injector is leaking alot! I disconnected both injectors and the car still runs fine. So I'm going to take them out to get cleaned. That might help. Hopefully

And all this time, I was wondering how I ran out of gas so fast!

rgarcia63

If they're the originals, don't you think it's about time to replace them? Just a suggestion.

I know they're expensive, but so is gasoline these days.

Matt1821

The one that was replaced was the one that is leaking. They don't look the same though. The new one looks different than the oem.