KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Without having my converter lock-up and having no O2 sensor?
It's a CCC Q-jet.

The reason for the converter not locking up is the speedocable is bad and the two replacements didn't reach. Still looking.
The O2 needs the bung put on.

Gas mileage has been miserable.
Performance, also, has been miserable.

camaronewbie

No O2 sensor is making the performance and mileage suck. No locking TC will affect mileage to a small degree on the highway, but little effect in town at speeds below 45mph, and will have nothing to do with performance.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Dammit. I was hoping it was the other way around. I'm mostly driving highway at the moment. Figured I could do the cable myself and hold off till it's warmer to do the bung at a shop.
That last sentence doesn't make sense. I need to find a shop ASAP that doesn't charge 75 bux for a simple weld job.

camaronewbie

If it's a cc-carb, why is the TC not locking? The ECM controls that function.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

It is based on the speedometer. The box behind the gauge. It's one of the codes for the service light. It doesn't "know" how fast it's going so it doesn't know when to lock it.

Air_Adam

If you have no O2 sensor, then the computer will be in 'limp home mode'... with the CC carb system, it will pull timing and dump in fuel like crazy, both of which on their own will ruin gas mileage.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

That would make so much sense. I'll try to get it done ASAP.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

These are my headers.


If I put the bung on the collector on the driver's side, would the 3 wire heated oxygen sensor be necessary? Or can I get away using the 1 wire?
I know people have issues when using headers with the O2 not heating up.

Air_Adam

You should be ok to use the 1-wire sensor in those headers, though the 3-wire will still work better. The stories you hear about O2 sensors not heating up enough, are generally from guys using long tube headers, which put the O2 sensor quite far away from the cylinder head. Your headers are shorties, which will keep the O2 sensor close enough to the head to build up enough heat that it shouldn't be an issue.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Thanks for the answer! I will debate on which one I'll go with since either won't hurt. If I feel like wiring, I'll go 3 wire. I'll see.

Just one last question. I wanted to check if the car was in limp mode, open loop or closed loop. So I turned the car on. Let it sit a bit for 1 min. Jumped A and B, idle dropped a little, the check engine went straight to flashing code 13 three times, then code 24 three times, and repeat. I tapped the gas and the idle dropped a lot. Jumpering did the same as before.
The check engine light is not solid when the car is started. Only after driving highway speeds it turns the light on.
What mode am I in? Just to be sure.

Reference:https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/tech...y-tell-if.html

Air_Adam

If its in limp home mode, the light will be on solid all the time.

Usually when the SES light comes on after cruising on the highway, it suggests an EGR problem. Not always, but usually. Thats where I would start looking. EGR issues can cause all kinds of running problems... rough idle, lack of power, poor mileage, etc etc...

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

EGR is all removed. I have to sort out my vac hoses. I will do that after O2 sensor and speedocable. Should be done tuesday. I'll post up on how it turns out.

Air_Adam

If the EGR is all removed, and it wasn't programmed out of the computer, it will set a check engine light. A non-existent O2 sensor will also turn on the check engine light when the engine is warm enough to start taking info from the O2 sensor, and it doesn't get any.

naf

iTrader: (7)

24 should be a fault in the vehicle speed sensor. Although some have claimed a SES when unplugging the EGR, my '87 has never set that code. Can't answer for other years as I've never tested.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Did 83s have programming for EGR? Neither of the codes are for it.
I know why both codes are on and should be fixing them soon. I think it's the second part of your post for code 13.

Haven't had one for it yet. 83 LG4 ECU/M

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

I'll just continue this post with another efficiency question:
How wrong are my vaccum lines?



I don't know what that thermal switch is supposed to connect to.
I have no emmissions stuff. Also, the line from the canister is just sitting there.

naf

iTrader: (7)

The TVS on the water neck controls the EFE valve that was in the pass side exhaust. You don't need it now and can plug the opening. No reason not to reconnect the charcoal canister, in fact I'd recommend it.

Oh and get a proper pigtail for that choke connection and a new one for your CTS.

Sparkytfl

Theres a sticker under the hod showing the proper routing of the hoses. Its hard for us to tell much from a couple pictures.

I dont like the look of that spring hose clamp on the gas line. Even if it is only 5-8psi on a carbed car, you should still have a proper screw type.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Ok, I'll leave the EFE there to plug it.
I don't know where to connect the charcoal canister. It has 1 tube coming out and on the end of it has like a second tube attached to it.
The choke connection is the proper spade. The green wire is my temporary rigged fan relay power. The CTS is a new pigtail, just that my stock carb cover hits it due to tilting from hitting the distributor. Rotating the dist is a project for another day.
I don't have a sticker anymore. The fan shroud is from the later serp model electric fan. The stick on the metal was painted over and destroyed.
I don't know why, but I trust the spring clamp more. I've had bad luck with screw ons loosening. I'll leave it at the moment, if it gives problems, I'll know why.
I can describe what is connected to what from this:

J: goes to the TVS, third pic
B: capped with yellow cap in first pic, supposed to be air cleaner? also separated to choke thing
L: PCV on pass valve cover
T: open, nothing connected
H: capped with tube and screws

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

More pics:

That's the one tube coming from "to carb".

Thats from the fuel tank, no pipe on that little nipple.


My tach pegs out when the car is on. With the key going from: car on - off - on(no start), the tach reads 0.
I found this coming off the distributor. It's the tach filter. I'm guessing that little wire thing is broken as it's just floating in air. Where do I get a replacement?

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Just an update.
Got the bung installed and wired a 1 wire O2 sensor. I have a replacment speedo cable that I'll do friday when it's good weather.
Driving to school today, the light turned on later than usual. Before it took 5mins on the highway to pop on. Now it went off 30mins of driving. Checking the codes gives the same 13, 24. When I jumper it with the car on, codes 13 and 24 flash and the idle goes down.
I'll try reseting everything by disconnecting the battery for a while.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Your Idle Air Bleed may need to be tweaked some in order to reset it to proper dwell after your header installation. Looks like the tamper proof cap is still on it. This could be causing your lean O2 readings.

If you have a dwell meter or scanner it would be helpful to observe the dwell to ensure it's going into closed loop. This is a 350(?) with headers and you're running the qjet still set up for the 305 it used to sit on. A little tweaking may be required.

Appears to be running better, anyway, with the O2 installed.

Air_Adam

Now that you mention it... I'm not sure if a non-functioning EGR system would set an SES light or not? I had an L69 at one point, but I can't remember if EGR function was in any way tied into the computer now?

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Ok, driving home from school, the light did NOT turn on. Before I left, I disconnected the negative lead for ~5 minutes. I did not read the codes after this point as the light didn't pop on. It should still be going off for not being able to tell vehicle speed (codes 24) since the speedo cable is disconnected. Weird. I'll still be installing the cable.

I really have to look into carb tuning. I don't have a clue as to how tweak the Idle Air Bleed. I know someone who has a dwell meter I can borrow. I'll have to learn how to use it though. Yes it is a 350 with headers running on the stock 305 setup carb.
I hope it's running better, it was making me fill up every 3 days. Pretty costly.
-Edit: If the Idle Air Bleed is the screw on top, then yeah I've spun it around. I just turned it to when it was a decent idle. Haven't touched it in a while. Didn't know the name fore it. The security cover is off of it.

So far, nothing is throwing a code pretaining to EGR. I hope it never does. This is the first time in like 20 years the car hasn't had a check engine light!

naf

iTrader: (7)

Check out the carb sticky on the E4ME and some older threads like this one:

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/carb...its-greek.html

Post back with any Q's and we'll walk you through it.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Yup, that's what I was looking at when I corrected myself. I have a couple of other links too. Gonna take a shot this Friday. Although I don't have those special carb tools.

naf

iTrader: (7)

Only special tool you may need is the driver for the idle mixture screws. Saw one at AZ not long ago for maybe $10. Has a flexible shaft and a handful of different shaped bits.

Don't worry about lean/rich stop settings. Measure the travel to ensure it's 1/8" (and that it's clicking up and down properly) then go to the IAB.

AND cap those vac lines before going any further..make sure none leak.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Ok, here's the down low. Got some things done today and a little update on before.

When I said back on the 16th that it was still giving code 13, well it stopped giving the code later that day. At that point only code 24 was popping up. I decided not to mess around with the carb just yet.

I had a long break between classes today, so I started working on the car in the lot. Took my Pioneer CD player out and hooked up an aux cable (finally!).
I also fixed a burned turn signal bulb. Popped the fuse while testing leads. When I looked at the fuse block, there were 2 other fuses blown. One was ctsy 20a, another inst light 5a, and the other was closest towards you, pass side 10a. The 5a wasn't blown, just melted. Strange.

I had the old speedo cable out laying in the engine bay only disconnected from the dash. I fed in the new cable through the firewall and connected it from under, through the hush panel (saves sooo much time vs taking gauges out). I spun the tranny end of the new cable and the speedo/odom/trip were moving. Awesome.

I come home and put the car on ramps. Removed the old cable. Found out it was still working. Spinning one end, spun the other. Although it did have a gash in it. There was tranny fluid on it. I popped the new cable on and took it for a spin. No luck.
Couple of things I noticed. I was able to spin the transmission socket where the cable hooks up. Is this supposed to happen? Also, the square on the transmission was a lot bigger than the speedo cable square. Is that right? The transmission was an electric speedo, I put the speedo gear stuff from my original tranny onto it. The tailshaft gear was red on my original tranny which I am pretty sure is the same as my current. What do you guys think it is?

After that, I rechecked my timing. I realized every time I was checking it, I had the 4-wire EST connected. Popped it off and checked where it was. 0*. Awesome. I capped any vaccuum port that wasn't being used. Had my brother help and we bumped it to 12* BTDC. Too much? Throttle response seems to be better, but I can't compare as I haven't driven my regular route. I don't know if starting will be a problem as it did hard start once.

I've noticed better gas mileage (before timing adjustment, don't know after timing). The gauge seems to be dropping slower. It was all going well, till today when I had a fuel leak from my mechanical block fuel pump. I'm running the bigger stlye that came with the 350 engine. The steering linkage hits the fuel line and tears it. I have the smaller original style Airtex to put on tomorrow.

Almost there...
Thanks a lot for all your help fellas.
Any suggestions/corrrectins for my speedo/timing?

Sparkytfl

12 with the wire unplugged is too much. Yes the factory 0 is too little, but only by about 4-6

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Just another update.
Smaller fuel pump installed.
Timing is down to 6* unplugged as of yesterday.
MPGs were up when it was 0*. When I had it at 12* for a week, MPGs seemed to go down. I'll be tracking how it goes now.
I'll be checking the speedo gear once exams are over.
Keep on keepin on....

Kingtal0n

#1 If you run the converter without lockup on the highway you risk overheating the transmission fluid and damaging the transmission

#2 I love the carb but honestly if you ever intend to get some real fuel economy you need to think about multiport fuel injection. even a fouth-hand tpi system with a stock ecu would be a nice upgrade.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

I have a new aux cooler for the tranny fluid inline with the radiator. I figure if it's overheating, I would notice the temp gauge go up as the tranny fluid would heat the coolant. But it's normal, I run with the gauge from 190-220*.
I need the carb to work out for the next ~2 years till I graduate. Thought about, but didn't want to spend money on FI just yet. Just going with what I have that's reliable, then spending some real money.

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Fixed the speedo. Had to remove the gear housing and reseat the gear. It reads high, so it'll have to be swapped down the road.
Fixed my air buldge solenoid. Works with vac now!
Have to see if my converter locks up now, see if the right voltages are going to the 4pin connector.
Mileage has been mediocre so far.
Gauges are almost all operational, just the damn tach left.
Going to add electric hatch release, wire in my courtesy rearview lights, tighten my steering, fix my fan switch and fix my heater vaccum controls.

Step by step!

naf

iTrader: (7)

Outstanding.

You can get the steering wheel puller and lock plate remover from AZ or one of the other chains as a loan for your steering.

oamhmad

iTrader: (1)

I'm just about to replace the speedometer cable on my car. Do you remember what brand you got and how long it was? Were you able to install it without lowering the tranny, and how exactly did you reseat the gear?

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

I got the one from Autozone. It was Pioneer brand. My car is an automatic and the one on there system is WRONG. It is listed as being 60 something inches.

If you have an auto, you need 80 INCHES! Part #: CA-3001. I don't have cruise. You can install without lowering very easily. I'm pretty skinny and I am able to reach under the car, not jacked, and unscrew it off. Having a jack or ramps is a plus.

At first, I just unscrewed the old and screwed on the new. That didn't work. Took off the gear housing by unscrewing that one hex bolt and pulled it out. I slid the new cable through the housing/gear and made sure spinning the gear spun the speedo. Then reinstalled. Simple and straightforward stuff.

And naf, I don't think I'll be pulling the wheel. I don't have tilt so there's nothing to tight right? I meant tightening the steering box.

Tobias05

Have you tried bypassing the tach filter?

I've haven't had much luck with the factory tach, but i finally got it right once I replaced my cheapo china ignition module with a MSD box.

Come to find out my "NOS" tachometer my wife installed for me had the capacitor replaced. Not so NOS anymore...

So that makes it my 3rd tachometer in the car, and its pretty accurate with my autometer, for the most part.

Hope you have better luck than I did!

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

I'll give that a shot bypassing the filter.
By ignition module you mean ICM in the dist right? I have a new duralast one in there. Hopefully it's not that as I don't want to put in a $200 separate box. I'll try looking up the capacitor fix you mentioned. Thanks!

KnightmareCS

iTrader: (7)

Just another update and more questions I've got.

Haven't gotten to the list of stuff to do I last posted. Still looking for free time.
The car has been driving fine without a check engine light (after like 2 decades!).

Now just a couple of questions.

First question: (Recall: changed fuel pump 2/28, if this has anything to do with it)
On 3/23, driving to school, I noticed really low oil pressure. Like close to 0. I stopped off at an autoparts store and dropped a quart in. Before this the car was driving at around the white mark after 30 on the gauge. After I added the quart, it was ~30. A couple of days later. I checked the oil and nothing was showing up on the stick. I added ~4.5 quarts and the dipstick read a 1/4" past full. I know it consumes oil, just didn't know it was THAT much. I changed the oil in january. Right now it is running at 30 while cruising and right under 30 at idle. When cold, it reads at the mark after 30. Does this seem right? I am sure it was higher before. Have I damaged something? Oil pump? I don't see blue smoke in the rear. Just the same wattery/black stuff coming out the tails. Sure hope it's alright. Oil is dark. Rings/valve guides?

Second question, the tranny OD isn't locking I am pretty sure. No lights. Fluid level is fine. Is it the NO/NC switch difference? Car's an 83, trannys from 84.

Third question, not really a question, but I feel like the car's running really rich.