dustinxix

iTrader: (1)

okay so here goes. recently, i just replaced my head gasket because it blew on me. so after a few days, got it back together, but runs rough, just figured it was because of a vacuum leak or something.(im assuming vac leak because i couldnt re use the lower runner gaskets so instead i used rtv silicone for the time being). anyways, the problem is, if you go out and start the car first thing in the morning, or cold even, it will fire right up, run for about half a second, and shut off, unless you play with the gas pedal to keep it running, and it will have a very bouncy idle, it only slightly smooths out when it warms up. now as for diving the vehicle, its an even worse story. it drives fairly smooth, but the second you use ANY electrical device or accessory (not counting the aftermarket radio) the tach will instantly drop to zero and the car stalls or bogs out reeeeal bad. same scenario applies when using the brakes. use of the brake pedal will cause same exact thing.driving at night is practically impossible, because the lights are on. at night if driving with lights on, it acts as if its got a multiple cylinder misfire, and the second you shut off the lights it smooths right out.im so lost as to what to look for or do. list of things Ive replaced/done so far:

spark plugs
wires
cap
rotor
alternator
starter
ignition module
head gasket, intake manifold, exhaust, and valve cover gasket.
deleted air injection

(there was a black pump looking thing that had two connectors going to it, i removed this device because i went to the air injection set up and no longer "needed" it.) possibly the two connectors left unplugged is related to my problem?

at first i was thinking it was a short somewhere, but then i figured if that was the case then it should do it all the time, and not just when i use any electrical device?

anyways, thanks in advance for looking and any help. if it helps, i have an 88 firebird with a 350 tpi. if any other infor is needed please ask. and if it helps payday is this friday, so whoever can offer the solution to my problem i will send through paypal $40 this friday.not trying to bribe anyone lol just desperate for help asap. thanks!!!

dustinxix

iTrader: (1)

ntrider1991

uh sounds like you need to adjust your timing turn your cap 1/8 or so to the right or left if still crap than check oil pressure and fuel pressure and compression could be the cam

camaronewbie

Did you re-attach the ground strap on the pass side head to the firewall when you did the head gaskets?

dustinxix

iTrader: (1)

yes i did reattatch it. your saying it could be something as simple as a ground strap like that causing my problems?

dustinxix

iTrader: (1)

oil pressure is fine, timing is spot on, and i dont think it would be any of those that you suggested because it only happens when you use an electrical accessory such as windows, lights, hvac controls, etc. not all the time. its like the engine itself is using almost all of my electrical capacity and then as soon as i use something electrical,. that device robs the engine of the electricity. thanks for the suggestions though!! much appreciated

bjn

So, check the alternator and battery. If the tac is dropping out, it sounds electrical. Double check all your connectors and make sure everything is grounded correctly.

dustinxix

iTrader: (1)

it definately does seem electrical to me. i just checked my grounds, i guess ill re check them, and the alternator has just been replaced with a brand new one. theres only two connections on my alternator, the single wire which gets bolted on it and the 4 pin connector and there on securely.

camaronewbie

Starter wiring - you have all your fusible links attached to the large starter terminal, along with pos battery cable, and only the purple wire all by itself on the smaller terminal right? Battery neg cable connected to engine block right?

ASE doc

I'll direct you back to the ground wires on the back of the cylinder heads. Aside from the ground strap, there are several small ground wires that attach to both the driver's side and passenger side head. Double check that you have all these wires in place. It's very likely that you have manifold air leaks where you used RTV to seal your runners. The runner gaskets are cheap, replace them. A vaccum leak will cause unstable idle and certainly wont help this problem.

dustinxix

iTrader: (1)

i just picked up the gaskets tonight, ill install them and see if that helps any.thanks for all the insight guys, really appreciate it

dustinxix

iTrader: (1)

well got my gaskets replaced, runs sooo much better. it mustve been just the gaskets because now i can use my accessorys like windows an such no problem. i think i do have a short somewhere however because for the hvac controls, the fuse blows instantly when you turn it on any setting. i only had 30 amp fuses on me and it was blowing those so im guessing a short somewhere?

ASE doc

Check the blower motor, blower resistor, and high speed relay for short to ground. Try unplugging the AC compressor and see if the fuse holds then. The clutch coils short out.

dustinxix

iTrader: (1)

unplugged ac compressor and still blowing fuses. ill have to check the other things you mentioned. thanks!

dustinxix

iTrader: (1)

found my problem. there was a wire going through the firewall, wore through the casing and was shorting out. thanks guys!

ASE doc

Wires through the firewall are not cool. Ideally, you would purchase the necessary terminals and use a vacant spot in connector C100 for any circuit going from the cockpit to the engine bay. Otherwise, purchase a grommet. An easy jippo way to get by is to split a piece of fuel hose, use fuel hose because it's heavy and reinforced with cords, and slip it over the wire. Fix it in place with zip ties on each side of the firewall. This will last for several years without chafing through the hose.

dustinxix

iTrader: (1)

yeah i dont get how it could rub through, but it did. anyways, electrical tape for now, ill pickup a grommet tomorrow.