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fuel pump, or sending unit?

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Old 06-05-2012, 09:06 AM
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Car: 1989 Trans am GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
fuel pump, or sending unit?

My 89 GTA 305 has been acting up after starting it up after sitting for several hours each time. The idle is high in park, if I throw it in gear in jumps around, and it's stalled a couple of times the week. I did the fuel filter in hopes it was just that, and it helped, but I'm still getting the idle problem. Not really sure if its the sending unit or pump now. Or maybe something else, like an injector? Like I said, the issue is only really after starting it in the morning, or after work. I'm sure there's a another thread like this, sorry for the double post, but I'm just on the blackberry, so searching is rough. Thatnks thirdgen.
Old 06-05-2012, 10:28 AM
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Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 91 L98 long block with Pro-jection
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 91 10bolt w/ 3.42s and T2R
Re: fuel pump, or sending unit?

The "sending unit" is only for the fuel gauge.

Generally, fuel pumps don't show up so much at idle, as at high RPM, or as a no-start condition.

I'd start checking for vacuum leaks. What you're describing sounds a lot like a vac leak, or possibly a sensor issue (TPS proba bly if anything, since you don't have a MAP sensor). I'd do the visual checks for obvious disconnections or cracks, and use your ears as well. Sometimes, if you move hoses that are just cracked while the engine is running, it'll change RPM, and that can help narrow it down.

Hope that helps.
Old 06-05-2012, 10:42 AM
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Car: 1987 T/A WS6 T-Tops/92 RS
Engine: LB9/3.1
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73/3.23
Re: fuel pump, or sending unit?

I just had to replace the fuel pump on my 87 TA and what is going on with your car is not what mine was doing. Mine would start fine, idle fine and when cold would run fine, but once the pump warmed up the engine would buck, cut out, make no power, back fire, and overall just ran like crap if you gave it gas. You could always put a fuel PSI gauge on it just to be sure, but I don't think you have a bad fuel pump.
Old 06-05-2012, 11:13 AM
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Car: 1989 Trans am GTA
Engine: 305 TPI
Re: fuel pump, or sending unit?

Originally Posted by SCCAjunkie
The "sending unit" is only for the fuel gauge.

Generally, fuel pumps don't show up so much at idle, as at high RPM, or as a no-start condition.

I'd start checking for vacuum leaks. What you're describing sounds a lot like a vac leak, or possibly a sensor issue (TPS proba bly if anything, since you don't have a MAP sensor). I'd do the visual checks for obvious disconnections or cracks, and use your ears as well. Sometimes, if you move hoses that are just cracked while the engine is running, it'll change RPM, and that can help narrow it down.

Hope that helps.
Thanks! I was just thinking the same thing. I just moved across the country, and posted in the local forum here asking about junkyards and parts guys locally.

I had almost the same exact issue when I got my caddy a few years ago. I did a tune up the day I got it, and the idle was rough and gas mileage was way lower from the first cruise I took it on. I starting replacing everything I could think of, fixing this and that, and nothing helped. Turned out the wireset I put in when I did the tune up had a faulty wire. Problem solved.

I have the edelbrock exhaust manifold, and 2 of the wires are a very tight fit. I'll probably replace those in a few days and hope that helps. But that wouldnt really explain why it goes away after the engine warms up.
Old 06-06-2012, 07:58 AM
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Car: 1987 T/A WS6 T-Tops/92 RS
Engine: LB9/3.1
Transmission: 700R4/700R4
Axle/Gears: 2.73/3.23
Re: fuel pump, or sending unit?

Alot of times if an issue goes away after the engine warms up it's a vac leak. when the leaking vac line or say intake gasket is cold it let a leak happen, but when it all warms up the rubber contracts and seals off the leak for the time being. I'm not saying you have a vac leak, but just trying to help you diag the issue better. I would do a cold enrichment test. you can do this with with a cheap can of carb cleaner. With the engine running cold since that is when you have the problem spay around the lower intake gasket area and see if the RPM's increase, do the same for the vac lines. If The RPM's go up with the spay then you know there is a leak there-if the RPM's say the same then there should be no leak there.
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