Fronzizzle

My car is a 1985 Camaro. I have a 383 with a HSR and a '730 ECM from a 1990-1992. The memcal was burned by a fellow board member, but I also have available a chip I purchased through an online vendor.

I tried starting the car for the first time a couple of weeks ago, it wouldn't idle but would stay running if you kept your foot on the gas. My brother (a mechanic for 30+ years with his own shop) helped me and verified that I had the #1 cyclinder at TDC, was running the correct firing order, etc.

After verifying everything again, I'm still running into the same issue. The car won't start unless you have your foot to the floor, and after starting it won't idle. We've tried playing with the timing, but I'm still not 100% certain where it is because I can't keep it running without my foot on the gas.

I've also checked fuel pressure (53 psi) and set the TPS (0.60 volts).

I'm taking half of the day off tomorrow to work on the car again and I'm hoping to get some suggestions and ideas. I plan on adding more gas to the tank (I started with 3.5 gallons, should still be plenty left but just in case). I was also thinking about trying the other chip just to see if it'll make a difference.

The first thing I'm going to do is try and check/set the timing. It will probably be hard as I'll have to be on the gas, not sure how accurate that will be but I need to find a base point. Wondering if I need to do anything special to set check and/or set the timing? Is it possible that the computer is trying to adjust it as I'm manually trying to adjust it?

If there is anything else I should check or adjust, please let me know. Thanks.

Fronzizzle

After doing some more research, it sounds like my new harness comes with a EST jumper - I'm guessing I need to disconnect this to set the timing?

This is the harness I purchased: Wiring Harness

Not sure what the connector looks like on the harness or where it will be located and I don't remember seeing this. If someone can point me in the right direction, I would appreciate it. Thanks.

JaBoT

Disconnect the jumper and set the timing. It doesn't matter if someone is revving the engine to keep it running because when the jumper is disconnected it stops the ecu from advancing the timing.
So it will be the same at any rpm.
If this isn't already set. Its a good chance this is the problem. And if its not. You cant find any other problems till it's right.

Fronzizzle

Does it matter when the jumper is unplugged? Can I unplug it and then start the car or does the car need to be running before I unplug it?

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I disconnect it before I start the car. I don't think disconnecting it with power applied is a good idea.

fervernt

Don't quote me on it, but I'm pretty sure the shop manual says to disconnect it while its running... ill verify when I get to my place this morning

Fronzizzle

That's what I thought, too, from looking online. Not sure how easy it's going to be to do that, though, as I have to have a foot on the gas to keep the car running...also not sure if it would cause any issues by holding the gas down and having the RPM up a bit while unplugging.

Fronzizzle

So a quick update...

Started the car, disconnected the connector and checked the timing - and I'm pretty sure what I was reading can't be right. When the car ran best, I was getting a reading of 35 degrees advanced. As we slowly moved it, the car ran less and less well, at 15 advanced it would barely run even with pressure on the throttle.

Also, with the connector disconnected, the timing was moving by itself as the car was revved up. Not sure if this is right or not?

And finally...this might be a topic for a new post but last week, I used my brothers top of the line Snap-On scanner and it was reading data from the car just fine. Today, I keep getting a No Data Error Message. Triple checked all connections, verified the key was on, ran the scanner on another car just to make sure it was working fine (it was)...no luck. So, for some reason between last Wednesday and today, the ALDL stopped communicating. Any idea what could cause this?

JaBoT

You must set the timing to what ever the chip maker told you to. Which is usually the stock setting regardless of how bad it runs!!!
Until you reconnect the connector the timing is not even close to what its supposed to be so you can not set it to what runs best with the connector disconnected.
As far as the timing moving. It is normal for there to be a couple of degrees of movement when rpm increases with the connector disconnected. This is common with magnetic pickups in distributors.
You probably have other problems, but you can not diag or fix anything until the timing is set properly.
Also what cam are you running?

mmadden55

I'll assume since your mech friend helped you, your distributor is in right. The other possibility is that your cam was improperly installed. Set the timing with the wire disc to TDC or 0. Try it there with the wire connected . If it doesn't run halfway decent, your distributor may be 180 out or the cam improperly installed. To find TDC on compression take the plug out of #1 and put your thumb over thehole and watch the timing marks while some one bumps the engine. When you feel pressure on the cylinder and the timing mark is on zero you are at TDC. Then look at the distributor rotor should point to #1 on the cap. If it points the opposite way you are 180 out.

grumpyvette

Fronzizzle, Did you verify TDC and degree in the cam with a degree wheel and dial indicator? 9it sure sounds like the cams not indexed correctly

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/....php?f=52&t=90

http://forum.grumpysperformance.com/...hp?f=52&t=5520

Fronzizzle

Ugh. No, I didn't verify anything. I paid an engine builder, he put the entire thing together. Of course, that doesn't mean he did it right...however, he's built hundreds of engines including for some friends and they turned out fine. Again, doesn't mean mine is but I sure hope he knew to do this.

Based on the links you sent, it doesn't seem like something real easy and/or quick to do. If that's what I need to do then so be it, but I'd really like to check anything easier first.

Regarding not being able to get data from the ECM, is this something to be concerned about? Is it possible that the ECM I bought (it was a rebuilt one purchased through Ebay) went bad? If so, can this be affecting the running as well?

Thanks to all for the replies, ideas and suggestions.

Ryan3834me

I just changed my distributor. Get engine to TDC 1. Remove dist cap. Mark were rotor is pointing. There's your no 1. Should be close enough to fire. Base timing should be around 0-6. Usually base is 6. But if I have a problem motor, I'll go to zero, until tuning. The base timing should be set with ESC jumper unplugged. The ECM, and code on chip, rely on base to be a certain value. The ECM adds or subtracts based on parameters and reduces advance based on knock.

FYI. Both, 305 and 350 knock sensors and Electronic Spark Control modules are displacement specific.

I've recently experienced a TPS which tested perfectly, cause stalling. Luckily I had a spare new in box. Through it in, stalling gone. I adjust it to .49 and make sure I get about 4.8 with pedal to floor, not just moving blades by hand.

Fronzizzle

If my timing is so far off (was reading around 35 yesterday), will it even be possible to get it to zero? Seems like the closer I got, the worse the car ran and at 15 it was tough to keep it running.

Is that 6 BTDC?

The memcal I had burned for me and am using has the knock disabled.

JaBoT

What cam are you running?

Fronzizzle

I'll have to dig up that information...I know it's a mild Comp Cam but I don't have any of the exact information in front of me.

grumpyvette

what city and state are you located in, any chance your near west palm bch fla. so I can help you out?

Fronzizzle

Unfortunately, no...pretty much the opposite of that. I'm up in Detroit, MI. I do greatly appreciate the offer, though.

SumDumbGuy

What RPM are you saying it's running bad when changing the timing? I'd recommend letting off the throttle some if you can. An SBC engine over ~3500 RPMs will run best with timing 34-38 deg. advanced. That's why it's probably why it's running so good with base timing that high, you've essentially "locked in" full advance with the ECM disconnected. I haven't done much with CC dizzys, but even with vac/mech advanced dizzys, setting base time at idle makes the car sound like it wants to die and the faster the motor is running at base timing only, the worse it runs. There wouldn't be a point to timing advance if it ran great without it! Good luck

Fronzizzle

Thanks for the advice...and yeah, I'm not 100% positive but we were probably a little over 3,000 RPM. Anything less than that and the car wanted to die. Going back to it today.

Fronzizzle

Finally, some progress. After fiddling with the idle & timing, I got the car to run for 15 minutes without having to hold down the gas. Still doesn't run great, kind of sounds like there might be a miss. Anyway, it least it ran long enough to get the cooling fan to kick on & off, so there is one less thing I have to worry about working.

Anyone have thoughts on what my base idle RPM should be? I was at about 900 - 1,000 yesterday. A little high (I think), but less than that and it didn't seem to want to stay running.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Should idle around 750ish if I remember correctly. You have it set too high...

Ryan3834me

I think it's 650 RPM in neutral. Been years since I had an automatic.

Did you put a light on it? It will jump around a bit when revs change, but settle at a constant mark, for constant RPM.

The sawtooth OEM has sawtooth steps, each step or ramp up is 2 degrees, step down, is another 2 degrees. So one whole tooth is 4 degrees, if memory serves. I wouldn't go over 9-10 degrees base. 6 is book base.

Fronzizzle

Probably a dumb question...is that 6 advanced or 6 retarded?

Fronzizzle

Wait...never mind. I keep getting confused, I hear "advanced" and I think "after". So 6 Advanced is 6 degrees BTDC...right? So I want roughly 6 degrees advanced?

Ryan3834me

Advanced is BTDC (before) which if you are looking at timing mark, the line on the balancer show up when lit by timing light above the 0 zero mark on the tab (OEM marker). Below zero is retarded.

You must hook timing light to the No. 1 plug wire.

Generally speaking, most V8's unless intended otherwise idle best at very low advance 0-10 degrees BTDC. They also need to have timing advanced at higher RPM's for best performance. This is why older dizzy had vaccum advance, and why these 80-90's cars use electronics to advance it, as RPM's increase.

Some aftermarket balancers have timing marks printed on them, and use only a single pin pointer above it (mounted to timing cover) It works the same way.

Fronzizzle

Okay, thanks. I'm currently at 5, so I may bump it up a little.

The car now starts fine and will stay running in park, but the idle is still high (around 900 or so). If I put it in gear, it drops to like 600, then starts to chug and eventually stalls. But, the car does idle now, the timing is (nearly) correct and it will run without holding down on the gas. Progress!

One more piece of confusion...once I get everything set, do I need to do some kind of reset on the IAC? I found some posts on it, but some talked about changing items in the file you burn to the chip and others talked about disconnecting the wires, etc. Is that something I should do as well?

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Isn't stock timing 6 Degree's? My car runs great with the timing around 8-9... I would see how it starts running with the timing bumped up, I know mine ran smoother with it a bit higher.

SumDumbGuy

When you say it eventually stalls when idling in gear, is your car warmed up when this happens? My car (355 carbed, auto trans) will idle around 1000 RPM in park/neutral and will drop to between 600 and 750 in drive, common when under a load. If it's not warmed up, I have to "two footed shift" (one foot holding the brake, the other feathering the gas) when putting it in gear or it will stall. Once it's warm, I can just shift with one foot on the brake.
Bullydawg - That's one of the reasons some people swear by the saying, "I drive a car, not a timing light." Every car is different, but at one time, GM set base timing at 6 deg. BTDC for whatever reason. I'm no expert, but - to a point - the more timing, the better. Obviously you don't want to go over 32-38 at WOT, but at cruising speeds, cars can be over 50 deg adv. With too far advanced timing, you will increase your odds of destroying things. I.e. timing so far advanced that detonation occurs right around the time the piston just starts going back up the cylinder or when the valves are still open.
If you're backfiring through the carb/intake, you've gone too far. If you're backfiring through the exhaust, you're not far enough. If it's hard to start (cranking, but battery sounds almost dead,) you're too far advanced.

Fronzizzle

So...scratch my "progress comment" and then some. Please excuse my language, but I'm ready to park this b*tch and let it rot.

When I left yesterday, the car was running pretty good. Timing was at 5 degrees, idle was roughly 1,000 RPM or so but the car started fine and stayed running.

Today, I went to my brother's shop & tried to start the car - no luck. Had to hold the gas to the floor to get it started and when it did, sounded awful. Tried to rev it up a little, no throttle response. Eventually, pushing down on the peddle made it stall. Tried move the distributor a little either way (thought that maybe somehow it moved a little over night). No luck. In trying to start it, it sounded like it might be backfiring through the intake. The next time we got it started, it was definitely backfiring through the intake - and it was a consistent "pop", like it was related to one specific cylinder or something.

I have no idea where to go from here. Can't understand how the car seemed fine yesterday and is awful today. More importantly, can't figure out why it's so bad today and what I should do next.

SumDumbGuy

...Did you plug the jumper back in? If so, what is the timing when it's as close to idle as you can get it?
Backfiring through the intake means the timing is too far advanced, or you don't have a valve set right.

Fronzizzle

Yes, jumper was plugged back in. Last night, timing was 5 degrees advanced at idle but I don't know today because I couldn't get the car to idle.

My brother suggested a valve issue, too - what is the best way to check the valves?

The plan for tomorrow was to pull all of the plugs and run a compression test on each cylinder.

What is the best way to check the valves?

The big thing I can't understand is, why did it seem fine last night and then today, with nothing done on the car, it won't start or run at all today and is backfiring like crazy.

SumDumbGuy

How did it run the first night with the jumper plugged back in?
Since you moved the dizzy, you might want to pull the jumper back out and re-set base timing.

I might have missed your answer, BUT did you ever look up what your chip manufacturer recommends for base timing?

Best way to check valves - Someone else feel free to chime in, but if you can get the car to run, get the rocker arm clips or cut out the center of a junk valve cover to keep oil from going everywhere. Fire the car up, keep loosening each rocker until you can hear it rattle and then, depends on who you talk to - tighten down 1/4-3/4 of a turn.

Fronzizzle

It ran fine the first night with the jumper plugged back in - no issues.

For the 5 minutes we had the car running last night (running bad, had to hold the gas to keep it going), I checked the timing with the jumper disconnected and it was still at 5.

Is there a way to properly check the valves without the car running? Even when I got it running last night, it was popping (backfiring through the TB) like crazy and I had to hold the gas to keep it running and even then, it eventually shut off. I highly doubt I can keep it running long enough to check the valves.

SumDumbGuy

What does the chip manufacturer say for base timing? Also, when the jumper is connected and it's running bad, what does your timing light read? It might be advancing the timing too far.

Probably not the case, but check if you have a vacuum leak. You never know...

It's been a while, but the way I've done it while assembling motors is before the intake is on. You might be able to do it with just the valve covers off though, not sure, but turn the motor to TDC on cylinder 1. Half of the valves will be fully closed. back Off the rocker arms until you can easily twist the pushrods by hand. Slowly tighten the rocker arms down until you feel slight resistance when twisting the pushrods, then another 3/4 turn. Crank the motor over again to TDC on cylinder 1 (motor will be 180 deg. out) and do the rest of the rocker arms.
Like I said, hopefully someone else can chime in and help...I haven't done this enough to be considered anywhere near a professional.

Fronzizzle

I checked through my documents, I don't have a recommended base timing from the chip manufacturer (PCMForLess). I just sent them an email, hopefully I'll have something back soon.

My brother and I both checked for vacuum leaks, couldn't find any.

I'm going to call my engine builder again today and see what he has to say. He seems like a really good guy, but he's older and doesn't have much experience with fuel injection and/or ECM's but I'm hoping he can point me in the right direction.

Fronzizzle

I just spoke to the engine builder. He listed three things:

1) Timing chain jumped
2) Somehow sheared the distributor pin off
3) Valve too tight

I'm not convinced that the timing chain has been right from the beginning, and it seems to me that if it did jump, it might explain why it was running okay one night and then won't start the next, right?

My brother suggested doing a compression test; just wondering what it "should" be and what it "might" be if the timing chain is indeed off. I also plan on pulling the valve covers & checking the valves.

SumDumbGuy

Once again, I'm no pro;
A compression test might help. If your compression is low, it could be caused by valves not being closed properly, which might indicate the timing chain jumped or a tight valve. If every cylinder is low, probably a timing chain issue. If one is low, probably a valve issue. Of course, that's not factoring in other possible causes of low compression like piston ring sealing issues.

If you suspect a jumped timing chain, running it might not be a good idea though. If it did jump, your valves could end up hitting the pistons. Motors don't run well with bent valves... I doubt it could jump that far, but there's always that possibility.

Have you pulled a distributor before? If you know what you're doing, pull it and see. If you haven't pulled one before, make sure you mark where it was before pulling it and don't turn over the motor while it's out...and put it back in EXACTLY where it came from. I can't remember but I think each tooth on the dizzy gear is like 30 degrees or so...You could really screw up your timing.

You could always pull the timing cover. Each gear should have a dot on it. The dots should be towards each other when cyl 1 is at TDC. UNLESS - You have one of those big fancy cams that are recommended to be degreed differently than factory. Find out the specs of your cam and the makers recommendation.

Fronzizzle

The saga continues...I have some a lot more info and some more questions...

Took out a plug, checked compression - it didn't get over 100 PSI which seems awfully low. I popped the valve cover and found that one of the Polylock nuts for a rocker arm was all the way off and the rocker arm was bouncing around. Started checking all of the valves, many were too tight and some were too loose.

This is where I get confused. In addition to the advice here, I looked online and talked to my brother - everyone had the same info in terms of how to adjust. So, I followed those directions but I noticed that shortly after I'd get a lifter adjusted - say, 1 to 2 minutes - the pushrod would then be loose again. So I'd gently spin the pushrod and tighten the nut until I could barely turn it by hand. I'd go another 1/2 turn and check and I couldn't move it. I'd then tighten down the internal screw to lock the nut in place and check again, everything seemed okay. But if I checked it again a couple of minutes later, I could then pretty easily spin the pushrod. Is this normal?

In total, I removed 3 spark plugs. All three were very black (burned) but also wet with gas. I know the car was flooded when I was holding the gas down, trying to start it but after running off and on for the last few days, I thought they might dry out. Not sure if I should change all of the plugs or not?

Once I got the lifters adjusted, I put the original plugs back in and the valve covers back on. Started the car, it fired right up - pretty much the easiest it's started. But, we still had to hold the gas up to get the car to idle. No more backfiring, though. I disconnected the jumper, checked the timing - we were at 5. Adjusted up to 8 or 9 and plugged the connector back in. It still didn't sound 100% right, though. My exhaust isn't hooked up so the car is really loud, but I'm pretty sure I heard a lifter ticking still, like it's too loose.

And this is where I'm going to throw a huge wrench into everything. After we set the timing, I walked over to the drivers door to shut the car off when I noticed the back tire spinning (the car was about 6" off the ground, on a lift). I went and looked at the other side, it too was spinning - and both were spinning backwards. And not just kind of spinning from vibration, but really spinning and I couldn't stop them. The car was obviously in Reverse. That's when I remembered, the hacks that had the car before me put a B & M Shifter in it and hacked up everything including the console and wires. They bypassed the neutral safety switch and the brake switch. I remember thinking, "I'll get to that later." And I forgot. And obviously, I need to adjust the trans linkage because the shifter is in park but the transmission is in Reverse. So basically, all of the work I've been doing with the timing and trying to get it to idle has been done with the car in Reverse. Good grief.

I also heard back from the chip manufacturer - they suggest "stock" timing. I guess that means I'll be setting it at around 8-9 degrees advanced and go from there.

My plan right now is to (1) fix the transmission so that Park is Park and (2) recheck the compression.

My questions: (1) what I described above regarding the adjustment of the valves, is that normal for a hydraulic roller motor? And (2) should I swap out my plugs now or wait until I get the car running somewhat normal?

SumDumbGuy

The good news is you're seeing progress.
With hydraulic lifters, they will bleed off pressure. That's why a few minutes after you set them, they felt loose again. I had the same issue when building my 355. It's completely normal, but it bothered me, so I probably tightened, loosened, re tightened each of them 5 times until I was satisfied with the result. If you readjusted them, they're probably tight now. Also, you shouldn't tighten until you can barely turn them, it should be until you feel resistance when spinning them.
You made sure you were at TDC on cyl 1 when setting them right?
Once you can get it to idle, warm it up and set the valves while its running, then you can tell for sure that they're set right.
Tight valves don't tick, loose valves do - maybe you're hearing an exhaust leak, check your header gaskets.
The tranny in reverse would probably effect the running right part since the motor is under a load. If you want to worry about fixing the shifter linkage later, you can always put it in neutral since you can't get it into park.
As for the plugs, probably change them, they're cheap. If you're still messing with the timing, they might foul out again though. Maybe just fix the shifter issue - get it into park or neutral and see what happens.

Fronzizzle

Yes, I had the #1 cylinder at TDC and I did half of the valves, then spun it 180 and did the other half. We printed up a list of which ones were adjustable at each location and I followed that. Pretty confident we at least got that part right.

I re-adjusted the first two valves I did, but then figured it was probably something to do with them being hydraulic so I didn't re-adjust any of the others.

My plan is to (1) fix the trans linkage so I can get the car in park; (2) get the timing set right; (3) replace the spark plugs; (4) adjust the valves with the car running.

Thanks for all the help - my next few days are going to be work heavy, but I'm hoping I can post something about how great the car is running early next week!

SumDumbGuy

Not a problem with helping - Us Michigan third gen owners have to stick together!
Good luck and do keep us posted with the results.

Fronzizzle

Quick update...I'm starting to suspect that I may have a problem with the vacuum or MAP sensor.

I got the car adjusted so it's in Park. When I tried to start it, it ran but was really rough and the idle was very "loopy" and it finally stalled. I had my brother help me, we got it running and I checked & adjusted the timing while in Park (it is set at 9 degrees). Revving it up, it sounded great...but then as soon as you let off the gas, it would chug a bit and then stall.

Once the car stalled, I tried to get it started again and it was extremely hard, even with the gas held down. When it did start, it was extremely rough and pushing down on the throttle actually made it worse.

While my brother held the throttle, I disconnected the vacuum source to the map sensor. Neither of us really noticed any difference, but I hooked up a hand vacuum pump to the sensor and as soon as I pumped it, the idle picked way up and smoothed out.

At that point, I shut the car off and hooked his scanning tool back up. With the key on, the MAP sensor was reading 4.68 volts and 29 inches. As I pumped the the hand vacuum pump, the voltage dropped to almost 0 while the vacuum went down to about 6 inches. As the gauge gradually bled out, the volts and vacuum both went back up to where they started.

Not sure what the MAP sensor is actually reading, but this seemed backwards to us; as you pumped the hand vacuum, shouldn't it read higher vacuum?

camarorsssss

iTrader: (2)

It sounds like you need to get into computer tuning and datalogging to see what the motor is doing. It is difficult to have someone make a new chip for your setup without seeing what the motor is doing and making calibration changes accordingly(not going to get the chip right the first time). How do you know that is the fuel pressure you need to run, have u tried lowering/raising your fuel pressure to see if it idles better?

you can post in the diy prom tuning section or look into the EBL by Rbob at Dynamicefi.com. There is a wealth of knowledege about tuning on this website that should help you .

AvantiHall

Sorry to bring this up but were the nuts on the rockers easy to turn or were they hard to turn, did they lock in place? Also if you don't have a stock cam then adjusting them 180 180 won't work correct. Like then said get it running, back off the screw till it ticks. Start tighting the rocker and right when it stops ticks go 1/4 turn tight, when it smooths (the engine will run rough till the lifter bleeds down) out go 1/4 turn more. when your done see if the nuts will stay where you put them, do they turn easy? if yes they will move again. Buy new nuts, readjust, then stake them so they can't move. your done, put valve covers on and start tuning!

Dave

Fronzizzle

Answering a bunch of questions...

The nuts on the rockers were...normal, I guess. I couldn't turn them by hand, but at the same time they weren't overly hard to turn with a socket & ratchet. I'm certain they are not adjusted 100% correctly (I can hear at least one ticking), but until I can get the car running & idling correctly, I don't think I can adjust them properly. I wanted to make sure they were close (which I believe they are) and stop the backfiring (which I did).

I know a couple of previous posts asked about my cam. I finally found the information. It is a Comp Cams 12-432-8. Here is something odd, though. The engine builder picked this cam after discussing what I wanted, I checked it on the Comp website and it looked fine. When I look at Summit Racing, though, it says it is a retro fit designed for early non-roller blocks and requires a thrust button and wear plate. My block is a roller block; could this cam be wrong and if so, could it be causing my problems?

Regarding the tune, I know I have to do that but from everything I've read it says you need to drive the car and collect data in all driving conditions. I can't get my car to start & idle without holding the gas down. Is that information going to be enough to update the tune? Is this a situation where I'm going to have to do this to get the car started & idling correctly and then do it again once I can actually drive it?

vetteoz

iTrader: (13)

That same grind is available as 08-432-8
a direct replacement for a stock roller cam with the factory retainer plate which should be the version you have;
check with engine builder

Fronzizzle

Well, I found one more problem - I have no vacuum. Hooked up a vacuum gauge, with the car running at idle - or, sort-of idle as I have to hold the gas up a little to keep it running - it was reading around 2 inches. I capped off the PCV & the power brake booster & checked it right out of the port at the back of the intake, no change. We checked for a leak around the lower intake & heads (using propane) and didn't find anything so we're guessing I have at least one valve adjusted too tight. Going to adjust them again tomorrow.

Fronzizzle

Well, I found my problem.

After adjusting all of the valves again, I was still getting no engine vacuum and very little compression. Finally said eff it, pulled the front of the engine apart and yep - the timing gears are off by a tooth. I plan on fixing tomorrow, hopefully I can have everything back together and get the car running by the weekend.

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

Good to hear you found the issue... Going to be much more fun when you can drive her!