arrocha87

I got a good deal on a 89 rs with a 305 v8 tbi. When it comes to the engine its one of the most stock ive seen in a while. Anyways the car is smoking some and I think its a piston ring. I can buy the set of piston rings. but whar are all the gaskets I will need? Anything else I should replace? Just looking to get it running good. I plan to put a 383 crate when I come back from deployment so not trying to mod this one. But I have 4 more months before I leave so thought I could do it over the coming 4 day weekend for me.

bwiencek

I wouldn't do anything if you are really planning on replacing it with a 383 later. To simply replace the rings isn't likely to fix the problem without a considerable amount of work. Make sure you rule out valve guides, valve stem seals and other causes of smoking as well as do a leakdown test to verify that it's the rings before investing the time in a 'fix'

If you're sure it's a stuck ring I'd try one of the chemical cure-alls first (soaking with cleaners, ATF in the oil, kero in the oil, engine flush, top end cleaner, seafoam, etc.) - worst case you're going to be no better off and will need to pull the engine out and do the complete job.

Look up a basic engine "Re-Ring Kit" - Summit, Northern Auto, local parts houses all sell them and they're about $100-150 for the 305. It will get you new rings, bearings, gaskets - I'd add a new oil pump (or HV pump if your clearances are on the loose side) and a new timing chain while you're in there) - then hope that your block's bores are still square and straight and can just be de-glazed with a light hone to break in the new rings (they're probably not so it'll require having the block bored over and new pistons to get them to seal right...) From there it's going to get more and more expensive and IMHO it's a waste to do a 305 when a 383 is close at hand....

If it were my car - I'd clean it with the chemicals, do new valve stem seals, run 15W40 or 20W50 oil in the summer to reduce the burn and run it until I'm ready to put the new engine in it.

arrocha87

Thanks for the info. Will look in to the valve stem seals. And yea its just going to be ran for about 4 more months then I'll be gone for a while. It sounds like this is a much simpler solution.
Any recommendations on valve guides and valve stem seals? Would a kit from autozone (fel pro, sealed power, etc) be fine for this or should I be looking at a specific brand?

arrocha87

Also is there a write up for changing out the valve guide and stem seals?

bwiencek

You're not going to change the guide - it's pressed into the head and reamed to size... You're just going to replace the valve stem seals - and make sure you get the "good" ones and not the umbrella or o-ring seals - get the "PC" seals or "posi" seal - they're a little more expensive than the cheapo's but they work better.

Search google for "Valve Stem Seal Replacement" and you'll find plenty of info out there on how to do it as well as videos and such.

arrocha87

Another question. What are the tubing and connections that run on top of the passenger side valve cover? My old tbi 305 camaro didn't have them But was a 91. Don't know if it makes a difference

arrocha87

Here's a pic of what im talking about

bwiencek

All of the larger diameter black tubing is the AIR injection system. It pumps 'outside air' into the exhaust stream to allow the catalytic converter to more efficently burn the unburned hydrocarbons. In other words it's part of the emissions system.

thomas1976

The ones laying on the valve cover attached to the header core diverter valve are for the heating system.

Next to the valve cover is the AIR system.

thomas1976

Valve guides need to bring them to an engine shop.
The seals is not complicated