Tech / General EngineIs your car making a strange sound or won't start? Thinking of adding power with a new combination? Need other technical information or engine specific advice? Don't see another board for your problem? Post it here!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org!
Welcome to ThirdGen.org.
You are currently viewing our forum as a guest, which gives you limited access to view most discussions and access our other features. By joining our community, at no cost, you will have access to post topics, communicate privately with other members (PM), respond to polls, upload content and access many other special features. Registration is free, fast and simple, join the ThirdGen.org community today!
Guess it didn't go through. How hard is to convert the a/c to the new legal kind. My car is running the illegal freon. My cars a/c does not come out cold at all. It blows air while the a/c is on but the air is just as cold as the vent. Do you guys think it needs charging? I have only owned this car for 2 months and the a/c hasn't worked since I owned it. How do you check for leaks? Any ideas
The system is probably dry, push the sharder valve , either one and see if theres a strong rush of freon/air comming out. Just dont tell anyone in So Cal you did that. Freon can still be used but you either need to go to a shop to have them charge the system or hop the border Its very easy to convert your system they sell the kits for $35 but you will need an extra can of R134 for most kits and I would reccomend adding a can of R134 stop leak just to make sure.
Lucky SOB it just got done snowing here!
__________________ 1976 SWB C10 3/4 drop, gen VI 454/M3.
1973 Buick Apollo wifes play car. Chevy 383/S3.
WOW! It's freakin' February! I didn't expect to see one of these posts for at least another three months. This guy is really planning ahead.
Trans,
The refrigerant you may have left in your system isn't "illegal", just more regulated than some of the other refrigerants available. Personally, I think you'll be disappointed with the performance of the R134A in your system. The coil sizes and expansion control were not designed to use it, and the smaller coils will not be as effective since the refigerant doesn't have as good a latent heat capacity as R12.
Another alternative would be to use an R12 substitute, or a tertiary blend such as R404. These are directly compatible with any remaining R12 and don't require a system flush and re-oil with anything special. They operate at a lot lower pressures than R134A and have latent heat capacities better than the original R12 in some cases. I've got HotShot in my '86 T/A to top off the system and I can just about make ice cubes on a 100° day. I know R134A doesn't perform as well in an older system with smaller coils.
If you really want to do it yourself, have a shop reclaim the R12 and evacuate the system. Tell them they can keep the R12 if they'll do the evacuation for free. Some places are doing that now just for the extra refrigerant. You'll have to follow the conversion directions explicitly to get any kind of life out of the system after you convert.
I'm not sure the blends are available to automotive A/C shops, but they are to the industrial markets. I keep an extra "30" around just for grins, and I'll guess you can find someone in your area with a similar supply.
( Oops! - The "404" should have been "406")
__________________ Later,
Vader
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Everything should be made as simple as possible, and not one step simpler."
Where can I get an R-12 substitute? Is this at Pep Boys? Any name brands you recommend? Thanks for the help. It's February but in So. Cal it's always warm. Just hit upper 70s few days ago.
1985 Tans-Am
LT-1 with a Holley 750 and HEI
TH-350 race built manual valve body
TCI 3000 rpm stall converter
B/W 9 bolt w/3.23 gears and posi
1.75" long tube headers
Holley "red" fuel pump
Hoosier 26x9x15 slicks
lightened bracket car
fuel cell
Don't you have to be EPA certified to buy refrigerant. That is what I read while reading about it on some pages for alternative freon. How do I go about getting the substitute R-12 or R-12 itself? Any ideas?
The 406 can work, but R414-B is better for automotive systems. That's what I'm using in the old T/A and Fiero, and have had no problems with it whatsoever. I've topped a couple of the neighbors' vehicles with nothing but success as well (except that there were a couple of Hondas in there).
You would have to have EPA-609 (mobile) or universal certification to purchase refrigerants for your own use, so you can either get certification or pay someone else to repair and recharge your system. Since R-12 can be prohibitively expensive, you could look for a shop that will use an alternate. They are widely available. You can get a few ideas at http://www.icorinternational.com/ - and look at the "Hot Shot" tab. The specifications should show why it works so well in auto systems, and the last time I bought a "30" it was about $6.00/lb. I quit checking the price or R-12 when it hit $28.00/lb (wholesale).
__________________ Later,
Vader
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - "Everything should be made as simple as possible, and not one step simpler."
i got yer r-12 at the shop 134 is fairly disapointing in our cars-its just not as efficient as 12. and with the smaller systems that were originally designed for r-12 heat transfer can take some time to happen. fellas-please dont mix all those crazy refrigerants like that you dont know what a pita it is having to buy all kinds of refrigerant i.d. tools at a arm and a leg per epa rule change or guideline enhancement. im getting to dislike taking on ac jobs cuz every aspect is getting so f'ed up and expensive to do correctly. the customer has to live long enough for the check to clear-and with some of these ac jobs the bill can induce a seizure in some people and they fall right over right there in the office- ded - nah, but you get the picture or or then again and :lala: is cool too
no stop leak in any ac system either i almost forgot to rant on about that too nonononononono
__________________ 1985 IROC Original Owner.Original silver paint, Roller 406c.i., 4 bolt, Superram, accel DFI 6. serpentine setup, Factory GM 1LE brake set-up, richmond 5 speed, 1 3/4 slp, jet hot, gale banks 2OTL power pack (vintage), eibach, grey leather flo-fits, A/C delete, 29k original miles and never been driven in the rain. all original parts are on the shelf. original window sticker and build sheets. 1996 Z28 M6 LT4 kit, hotcam, obd1, C5 brakes. And then theres the road runner.