MrJ

I'm trying to remove the runners. I have all the bolts off on the passeneger side runner and it will not come off. It is partway off, and I tried tapping it with a hammer... but it will not separate all the way from the manifold. I can jiggle it, but it won't come out. And on the driver's side runners, one of the torx bolts is in a location that seems impossible to get it. The FPR is in the way... can this bolt be removed with the FPR still in place? And finally, I haven't started the car for a month, but a few days ago I turned the key so I could listen to the radio, which primed the fuel pump. Should all the fuel pressure have bled off by now? thanx


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91 Trans Am WS6
Bright White
5.0 TPI auto
Flowmaster 3" 2 chamber catback
Trans Go shiftkit
2000 stall converter

supposed 'peanut cammed' car (yeah, right)

Built on Wednesday

Mkos1980

iTrader: (8)

for the Driver side (PIA) bolt I used a flat head screwdriver the size of the inside of the bolt and used a pair of pliers to turn the head of the screwdriver. for the passenge side did you get the inside bolt on that one in front?

MikeC.86Roc

iTrader: (10)

Have fun getting the runner out on the driver side, I had to loosen the fuel rail rear retaining bolts to get the freakin thing past the rail. It would also be MUCH easier if you take the valve covers off.

rondubbs

valve covers do not need to come off.. just take the 4 bolts out that hold the fuel rail down for some extra room.. and rememeber to take out the bolts that are in from the opposite side of the runner as MKOS1980 stated. you might of forgot one in and that is why it aint comin off..

Guest

If you have all the bolts out (4 top, 6 bottom) then it should come out. My guess right now is its hitting one of the intake manifold bolts, wouldnt be the first time I have seen that happen.
As for the driver side, yea its a pain. I use a bit attached to a 5" extension, then u-joint, then another extension (choose an appropriate size). You can also use a u-joint, then a 3" extension, then another u-joint. In some cases that works better, it depends on the car. Not everything is in exactly the same place back there.
The fuel pressure should be ok, its going to leak anyway, I would throw a couple towels under wherever you are going to disconnect the line (AFPR maybe?)

Sorry I didnt email you back, I have been SUPER busy lately, but thats all coming to an end in 2 days... then I can breathe.
I think its worth it to port it. The ports are kinda small, and as I noticed last time I looked at the manifold not only is the runner-manifold transition TERRIBLE, but the injectors have an excellent chance of being blocked by the intake gasket as well, which is something I didnt notice before. May want to throw a gasket on it before install, and cut/grind/file as necessary. As for doing what I did, well... I didnt lose any power, thats for sure, but with a stock cam I dont think there is much point. I do think it will do well on a cammed car, which I am going to be checking out around Jan 10-15th, doing some dyno testing. Hopefully it will back up my impressions, and then I will feel confident to let everyone in on it

MrJ

OK guys I figured out the problem. I didn't get the bolts between each pair of runner tubes. thanx for the help.