cfabe

I'm going to be installing my speed density system on my 82 T/A tomorrow. I've got a few questions.

1. On the part of the harness that runs under the dash in the car, the branch with the ALDL on it, the end of the harness after the ALDL has just been cut off. The only wire that is labeled is a brown/white wire labeled fuel pump. The rest of the wires are colored: black/white trace, Orange solid, Pink solid, pink/black trace, grey. Can any one tell me what these wires are for and where to hook them up.

2. On my harness, the connector labeled MAT has a large 2 pin connector on it, not the small one like stock. I was just going to splice on the stock one and use the stock location for the MAT sensor, which is already isntalled in the plenum. Is this sensor a straight resistance like a coolant temp sensor?

3. Under the edge of the egr valve there is a sensor of some sort that has one wire coming out of it. What is this sensor? I dont seem to have a connector on my harness for it.

4. I assume I need to use an egr solenoid like I had on my LG4 setup to control the egr valve. Correct?


5. Where on the engine does the knock sensor plug in? The engine is a GMC truck engine from early eighties I believe.

Thanks In Advance

cfabe

come on guys, I left all my TPI books in my friends van yesterday so I'm shooting blind on those wire colors. Anyone please?

2QUIK6

I can only answer 4 and 5 for you.
4) If you use the EGR, then you should use the sensor that goes with it, that way the ECM and controll when and how much its open, otherwise if its hooked up with no sensor, its open most of the time except idle if on a ported vac line. You can block it off and not use it, but then it must be turned off in the ECM and the timing tables programmed for it to work with out any detonation.
5) Knock sensor should screw into the passenger side of the block just rear of the motor mount and in front of the starter. There should be a drain plug of some sort there to remove and the sensor screws in where the plug was.
*
NOTE: Be sure the cam that is in the motor has at least 112 degrees lobe separation. When I did mine in my truck, I didn't change the cam and it detonated severly no matter what I did with the base timing. Finally had to get a custom chip burned for it, but it was too late, rod bearing knock now so it was impossible to do the custom chip correctly with all the false KR for the rod knock. So now it doesn't have near the power it should.
And if you don't have headers, get some, it realy wakes up the TPI.

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Rob
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Dyno Don

iTrader: (7)

1.The blk/wht trace is grd.
The org. is battery
The pink/blk. trace is ign. as is the pink
The fuel pump is tan/wht. trace
I don't know of any gray, might be the fuel pump (some used gry. some used tan/wht trace)
If that wire you are calling brn./wht trace is dark brn. that would be the S.E.S. wire.

2.That plug goes to a pigtail that fits on the plenum sensor. Not sure on the sensor type.

3. That wire is for a MAF system '87-'89 it is a temp. sensor.

4. If you are using SD system you need that EGR valve and that solenoid (they are different). (i.e. 305 auto./man. 350 auto./man)Just make sure they match for what you are going with. They are do not interchange.

5. The knock sensor and the prom go together make sure you get them to match. The knock sensor screws into the block drain hole on the right side next to the motor mount.

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Chronologically challenged. But still kicking!
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