TPITuned Port Injection discussion and questions. LB9 and L98 tech, porting, tuning, and bolt-on aftermarket products.
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just got done with my plenum and runners just wanted to see what opinons are on it. I also got a throttle body painted to match the runners with the tpi lettering polished.thanks
just got done with my plenum and runners just wanted to see what opinons are on it. I also got a throttle body painted to match the runners with the tpi lettering polished.thanks
Nice job....polishing and porting my plenum,runners and manifold this winter...will post fihished job in the spring.
u got sum more porting there!! looks good tho, u polished the plenum well, those scratches hurt lil... ur gona hate haveing to polish that plenum every couple of weeks and if u have a radiator line burst or leak on the polished part its gona look all white and nasty lol happened to me
and i would ditch those tiny small stock runners. these intakes look amazing with polished plenum and polished SLP's... like mine
You can clearcoat, but it will affect the shine just a little bit. Clearcoat will also yellow on an engine sometimes. Then the only way to get it off is Airplane stripper, or a whole lot of sanding... again. The best way to prevent the yellowing is to try the clear somewhere where is inconspicous, run it, and if it yellows try another brand. If it doesn't shoot the whole thing. If you clear it you wont have to polish it, but the plenum stays fairly clean and only takes a few minutes to polish.
the scratches arnt actually scratches i had sticky paper on the plenum to paint the black in between the plenum. it left marks on it but in that pick they look like scratches.....how much more can i port out of there? i have to go back and finish the sides anyway so I can port while at the shop.lmk thanks.
im pretty sure u cant clearcoat a polish.... polish is synthetic/oil/wax based.... thats how it polishes.... its like car wax with very fine sanding qualities.... thats why when u polish it turns black and then has that mirror like shine. the polish will fade off over time... hence why its like car wax and u will have to polish it again and again and again.
i kno u cant paint wax... the clear wont stick to it. but u could try and prove me wrong..... also there is a better solution.... ZOOP seal i heard is great and its protects and keeps aluminum polished and clean for like 2 yrs. u should look into that
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u have to polish more around the TB openeing, i can still see some of the EGR walls in the bottom and sides, u gotta get that all out
Last edited by customblackbird; 11-18-2007 at 05:59 PM.
Reason: Automerged Doublepost
You can clearcoat, but it will affect the shine just a little bit. Clearcoat will also yellow on an engine sometimes. Then the only way to get it off is Airplane stripper, or a whole lot of sanding... again. The best way to prevent the yellowing is to try the clear somewhere where is inconspicous, run it, and if it yellows try another brand. If it doesn't shoot the whole thing. If you clear it you wont have to polish it, but the plenum stays fairly clean and only takes a few minutes to polish.
that turbo looks good lol, yea i guess the clear coat would matter.... but my brother had really bad luck with the POR15 clear.... it would turn yellow and peel off on basically everything he stuck it on... but we love the black P0R15... that stuff is amazing i even got there can of there 400 degree engine enamel.
that turbo makes me wanna put one on my car so bad lol.
the belveled edges.... are a mistake. u dont want them... u want to port it to the exact size of the TB openings straight back through the EGR walls.... there is def enough material for this... i did it on mine for the stock 48mm.... i got a 58mm ready for my HSR thats already ported for 58mm
um i believe he was using the POR15 clear.... but it wasnt on polished or chrome surfaces just bare metal... he took all the precautions tho, when ever we use the POR15 we do there recomended steps/temps, use the marine clean, then the metal ready then the paint. he did it right its just that the clear yellowed and flaked off.
i used the VTH or VHT high temp 900degree caliper paint on my SSBC force 10 calipers and that was clear... but it eventually turned a yellow color and flaked off as well. now i just dont clear anything lol.
Ya I use to ave some clear powders that woul dturn yellow and I hated em. now I found one that doesnt turn yellow and stick with that. And for liquid clear I use this stuff.
Another good product is zoop seal for polished aluminum.
GLISTEN PC is a High Gloss, Rock Hard, Water-clear topcoat designed for spray or brush application over all metal surfaces, including highly polished aluminum and chrome surfaces. GLISTEN PC will not leave brushmarks, and will dry in less than one hour, but will take 3-4 days to reach maximum hardness.
When GLISTEN PC is first dry to the touch, it will appear to be very soft. Avoid touching it for several days until it becomes hard and tough. Accidental contact could damage the surface before full cure has taken place. Like many other coatings, GLISTEN PC is a MOISTURE-CURED coating, which means it is strengthened by exposure to moisture. It will never crack, chip, peel, or yellow, and is very flexible as well.
Note: When applying over polished metals (aluminum, chrome, brass, copper etc) you must use AP120 metal prep according to instructions.
IDEAL USES: As a protective coating on aluminum wheels, chrome bumpers, marine railings, chrome or aluminum covers, grills, handles, ornaments, lights, etc
It was like this when I bought all the stuff. But that was what I had thought that it was for a as&m monoblade. I was going to polish a stock 48mm throttlebody to sell with the system but then got to thinking whats the point, Nothing about this system is really suited for a stock throttlebody since evrything appears to be port matched and most stuff appears to be ported as well ..... So me thinks this stuff was originally intended for a 383 or something or just a high a$$ reving 305 LOL.
