Help me build a 383!
09-29-2009, 11:38 PM
#1
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Help me build a 383!
I have a 85 corvette, i know its not thirdgen, but you guys on this website kick *** 
I found someone with a 350 block that is bored .030 over, and clearanced for a 3.75" Crank locally for $175. You bet your *** i'm pickin it up.
I know i'll probably get jacked for this, but i want to stay with the TPI setup.
I already have ASM runners, a ported plenum, and I am going to purchase a big mouth base from TPiS. I was thinking of going HSR, but I am not sure on how much it costs (stock one doesn't clear corvette hood) if anyone can find a modified HSR that doesn't cost 1000+ i may consider it.
This is a budget build. I do not have a bank account with 100 zeros on the end of it. This is going to be a STREET motor
The Build:
Rotating Assy: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B13405E030/
Cam: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-314-4/
Heads: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5073/
Roller Rockers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G6950B/
and all that other fun stuff like pushrods, timing set, new wp all the goodies
NOTE: I would LOVE to go hyd roller and AFR heads..but the lifters and cam are so goddamn expensive, i would have more in the valvetrain than the rest of the engine.
Comments/Suggestions please!
I found someone with a 350 block that is bored .030 over, and clearanced for a 3.75" Crank locally for $175. You bet your *** i'm pickin it up.
I know i'll probably get jacked for this, but i want to stay with the TPI setup.
I already have ASM runners, a ported plenum, and I am going to purchase a big mouth base from TPiS. I was thinking of going HSR, but I am not sure on how much it costs (stock one doesn't clear corvette hood) if anyone can find a modified HSR that doesn't cost 1000+ i may consider it.
This is a budget build. I do not have a bank account with 100 zeros on the end of it. This is going to be a STREET motor
The Build:
Rotating Assy: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ESP-B13405E030/
Cam: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/CCA-12-314-4/
Heads: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-5073/
Roller Rockers: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G6950B/
and all that other fun stuff like pushrods, timing set, new wp all the goodies
NOTE: I would LOVE to go hyd roller and AFR heads..but the lifters and cam are so goddamn expensive, i would have more in the valvetrain than the rest of the engine.
Comments/Suggestions please!
09-30-2009, 12:31 AM
#2
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Re: Help me build a 383!
Personally, I don't like your setup. The cam and heads are not that great. Personally, a 350 with Vortec heads and an LT4 hot cam will probably make a 100 more hp then that setup you have. You are better off finding an 87 and up roller block, bolting on some ported vortecs and putting a decent hyd. roller cam in. You spend less and make more power.
Or just put this crate motor in. Get a TPI vortec base and reuse your runners and make 400hp. It's also an easy tune since it's just an LT-4 hot cam.
Yearone crate 350 Part # CT350PC1 $2989.00
http://yearone.org/serverfiles/fbsho...26DJ73491&trk=
That's my recommendation if you are on a budget and want to make good power on the cheap.
Or just put this crate motor in. Get a TPI vortec base and reuse your runners and make 400hp. It's also an easy tune since it's just an LT-4 hot cam.
Yearone crate 350 Part # CT350PC1 $2989.00
http://yearone.org/serverfiles/fbsho...26DJ73491&trk=
That's my recommendation if you are on a budget and want to make good power on the cheap.
09-30-2009, 09:33 AM
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Car: 1986 IROC
Engine: 355" TPI
Transmission: 700R4
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Re: Help me build a 383!
Everything looks good except the cam, its too mild. Also you should probably just buy 1.6 rockers and not the mixed set.
09-30-2009, 01:41 PM
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Re: Help me build a 383!
Sorry, didn't notice the 1.5 & 1.6 mixed set 
That engine comes with the LT4 hotcam correct?
That's a bit more expensive than building a TPI setup with vortec heads and using the stock block wouldn't it be?
There is someone selling a 383 block already bored and notched for 175 dollars. If i add lifters and the LT4 hotcam and vortec heads, and rotating assembly, could I build the same thing for less than $3000?
That engine comes with the LT4 hotcam correct?
That's a bit more expensive than building a TPI setup with vortec heads and using the stock block wouldn't it be?
There is someone selling a 383 block already bored and notched for 175 dollars. If i add lifters and the LT4 hotcam and vortec heads, and rotating assembly, could I build the same thing for less than $3000?
Last edited by Pwnage1337; 09-30-2009 at 01:44 PM.
09-30-2009, 09:32 PM
#5
Supreme Member
Re: Help me build a 383!
Sorry, didn't notice the 1.5 & 1.6 mixed set
That engine comes with the LT4 hotcam correct?
That's a bit more expensive than building a TPI setup with vortec heads and using the stock block wouldn't it be?
There is someone selling a 383 block already bored and notched for 175 dollars. If i add lifters and the LT4 hotcam and vortec heads, and rotating assembly, could I build the same thing for less than $3000?
That engine comes with the LT4 hotcam correct?
That's a bit more expensive than building a TPI setup with vortec heads and using the stock block wouldn't it be?
There is someone selling a 383 block already bored and notched for 175 dollars. If i add lifters and the LT4 hotcam and vortec heads, and rotating assembly, could I build the same thing for less than $3000?
2. No, it would not really be anymore expensive. Actually probably cheaper because by the time you buy a 350 late model roller block (which your 85 does not have) rebuild it and machine it, buy the Vortec heads and machine them for the higher lift cam, buy the roller cam, roller lifters, balancer, rocker arms, pushrods, gaskets, and every other bolt and misc you will need to make it run you will be at 3,000 easy. Plus you will have to put it together yourself and it will not be dyno run ahead of time.
3. The problem with using that older 383 block is you cannot run the LT4 hotcam in it because you it’s an old school flat tappet block unless you spend big money on retrofit roller parts which the retrofit lifters alone are $500 just to start.
What I am trying to say here is a low buck 350 roller motor will outperform a 383 flat tappet all day long. Roller motors always make more power. The crate motor is a low cost motor that makes a lot of power because it is a roller motor with a proven head and cam combo that you put it in a weekend and bolt all of your stock parts on with the exception of your new Vortec TPI intake and do a cheap mail order tune.
Think about it.
09-30-2009, 10:11 PM
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Re: Help me build a 383!
1. Yes that motor has the LT4 hotcam in it.
2. No, it would not really be anymore expensive. Actually probably cheaper because by the time you buy a 350 late model roller block (which your 85 does not have) rebuild it and machine it, buy the Vortec heads and machine them for the higher lift cam, buy the roller cam, roller lifters, balancer, rocker arms, pushrods, gaskets, and every other bolt and misc you will need to make it run you will be at 3,000 easy. Plus you will have to put it together yourself and it will not be dyno run ahead of time.
3. The problem with using that older 383 block is you cannot run the LT4 hotcam in it because you it’s an old school flat tappet block unless you spend big money on retrofit roller parts which the retrofit lifters alone are $500 just to start.
What I am trying to say here is a low buck 350 roller motor will outperform a 383 flat tappet all day long. Roller motors always make more power. The crate motor is a low cost motor that makes a lot of power because it is a roller motor with a proven head and cam combo that you put it in a weekend and bolt all of your stock parts on with the exception of your new Vortec TPI intake and do a cheap mail order tune.
Think about it.
2. No, it would not really be anymore expensive. Actually probably cheaper because by the time you buy a 350 late model roller block (which your 85 does not have) rebuild it and machine it, buy the Vortec heads and machine them for the higher lift cam, buy the roller cam, roller lifters, balancer, rocker arms, pushrods, gaskets, and every other bolt and misc you will need to make it run you will be at 3,000 easy. Plus you will have to put it together yourself and it will not be dyno run ahead of time.
3. The problem with using that older 383 block is you cannot run the LT4 hotcam in it because you it’s an old school flat tappet block unless you spend big money on retrofit roller parts which the retrofit lifters alone are $500 just to start.
What I am trying to say here is a low buck 350 roller motor will outperform a 383 flat tappet all day long. Roller motors always make more power. The crate motor is a low cost motor that makes a lot of power because it is a roller motor with a proven head and cam combo that you put it in a weekend and bolt all of your stock parts on with the exception of your new Vortec TPI intake and do a cheap mail order tune.
Think about it.
Eventually, the engine will be supercharged. Will this crate take the abuse or will I have to get one with forged internals?
10-01-2009, 12:18 AM
#7
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Re: Help me build a 383!
Thought about it, you're right. Let's say I buy the crate motor and 5 miles down the road I want to build it into a 383. Will the vortec's be sufficient flow for the larger cubes?
Eventually, the engine will be supercharged. Will this crate take the abuse or will I have to get one with forged internals?
Eventually, the engine will be supercharged. Will this crate take the abuse or will I have to get one with forged internals?
That crate is really not designed to be a blower motor but you could run a blower with it as long as you keep the boost between 6 and 7 psi. But personally, I would hit with a shot of nitrous before adding a blower. That motor would respond much better to nitrous then a blower. It would be animal on the laughing gas.
I thought you wanted to keep the cost down? A blower is another 3k plus then you would need bigger injectors, dyno tune to get it to run right and the TPI manifold setup is going to maxed out so now you are looking at a TPIS miniram or HSR setup for sure. You will spend another 4k to 5k to run a blower and alot of tunning time. I personally do not think you need a blower to make power anymore. Not with the options we have for heads and cams these days. They are alot of expense and do not guarantee you will be running any faster.
Last edited by burnout88; 10-01-2009 at 01:04 AM.
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10-01-2009, 12:09 PM
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Re: Help me build a 383!
The supercharger kits are rated for 8 psi, and there are people running them on stock bottom ends. Will the extra 1 PSI really hurt it?
The blower is going to be a long time after the crate motor. I'm talkin like 5 years or so.
I don't need to upgrade the intake if I go to a blower right?, the blower is rated for 350hp at the crank with a 100% stock TPI system. If I have vortec heads, a ported vortec base, a ported plenum, I should be making pretty good power.
The blower is going to be a long time after the crate motor. I'm talkin like 5 years or so.
I don't need to upgrade the intake if I go to a blower right?, the blower is rated for 350hp at the crank with a 100% stock TPI system. If I have vortec heads, a ported vortec base, a ported plenum, I should be making pretty good power.
10-01-2009, 01:52 PM
#9
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Re: Help me build a 383!
8 psi will be fine. It will work with the tpi setup but what you get for performance will be the magic question.
I know you orginally asked about a 383 flat tappet motor and I pulled you another direction. Put if you still want to do your orginal setup with that block you found and run those edelbrook heads and TPI intake, I would go with a TPIS flat tappet cam 700-135. Those heads have 70cc cambers which will probably put you at around 9 to 1 compression maybe a little lower but at least with this cam you will put out around 300hp at the crank. A hunderd less hp then with the roller motor but the lower compression would work better with a blower but not perform as well on motor alone. Hence the large horsepower loss. You would have to use the blower to get to the power level of the roller motor.
700-135-Small block
Intake Exhaust
Advertised duration 280 280
Duration at .050 224 224
Gross lift .495 .495
Lobe separation 112
I know you orginally asked about a 383 flat tappet motor and I pulled you another direction. Put if you still want to do your orginal setup with that block you found and run those edelbrook heads and TPI intake, I would go with a TPIS flat tappet cam 700-135. Those heads have 70cc cambers which will probably put you at around 9 to 1 compression maybe a little lower but at least with this cam you will put out around 300hp at the crank. A hunderd less hp then with the roller motor but the lower compression would work better with a blower but not perform as well on motor alone. Hence the large horsepower loss. You would have to use the blower to get to the power level of the roller motor.
700-135-Small block
Intake Exhaust
Advertised duration 280 280
Duration at .050 224 224
Gross lift .495 .495
Lobe separation 112
10-01-2009, 03:46 PM
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Re: Help me build a 383!
8 psi will be fine. It will work with the tpi setup but what you get for performance will be the magic question.
I know you orginally asked about a 383 flat tappet motor and I pulled you another direction. Put if you still want to do your orginal setup with that block you found and run those edelbrook heads and TPI intake, I would go with a TPIS flat tappet cam 700-135. Those heads have 70cc cambers which will probably put you at around 9 to 1 compression maybe a little lower but at least with this cam you will put out around 300hp at the crank. A hunderd less hp then with the roller motor but the lower compression would work better with a blower but not perform as well on motor alone. Hence the large horsepower loss. You would have to use the blower to get to the power level of the roller motor.
700-135-Small block
Intake Exhaust
Advertised duration 280 280
Duration at .050 224 224
Gross lift .495 .495
Lobe separation 112
I know you orginally asked about a 383 flat tappet motor and I pulled you another direction. Put if you still want to do your orginal setup with that block you found and run those edelbrook heads and TPI intake, I would go with a TPIS flat tappet cam 700-135. Those heads have 70cc cambers which will probably put you at around 9 to 1 compression maybe a little lower but at least with this cam you will put out around 300hp at the crank. A hunderd less hp then with the roller motor but the lower compression would work better with a blower but not perform as well on motor alone. Hence the large horsepower loss. You would have to use the blower to get to the power level of the roller motor.
700-135-Small block
Intake Exhaust
Advertised duration 280 280
Duration at .050 224 224
Gross lift .495 .495
Lobe separation 112
I think I am going to build the roller. Either way I need to rebuild/get a new engine and I would like to have some power before I get the blower.
SOB..Competition products (only 60 miles from where i live) has the RHS Protorker heads for $700! These heads flow like nuts for the price. http://www.racingheadservice.com/Inf...rts_New.asp#PT
I wonder if I could get the engine assembly with the hotcam installed, but no heads and install these instead? they are supposed to kick the 906's castings ***.
Last edited by Pwnage1337; 10-01-2009 at 04:12 PM.
10-01-2009, 04:34 PM
#11
Re: Help me build a 383!
For someone who wants a budget "STEET MOTOR", you seem to be eager to drop a lot of coin on a 'charger.
If you can pay for a supercharger, just get a retrofit-roller cam setup and call it a day. But if you really wanna do forced induction, set it up for that now while you can.
If you can pay for a supercharger, just get a retrofit-roller cam setup and call it a day. But if you really wanna do forced induction, set it up for that now while you can.
10-01-2009, 04:47 PM
#12
Supreme Member
Re: Help me build a 383!
Vortec heads need to be machined to except a high lift spring. Are those protokers able to handle LT4 hot cam springs? You will need a spring that can hanlde lift up to . 550 The site gives no info on valve springs or valve compenents on those heads and if they can fit the larger springs. Remember you also need a late model block if you want to build a 350 with the hot cam.
Worry about the issues with adding a blower when you actually are ready to install the blower. If you need to change the cam in 5 years to maxiumize power for the blower deal with it then. Don't kill your motors power by trying to accomadate a mod that you will do in five years.
Worry about the issues with adding a blower when you actually are ready to install the blower. If you need to change the cam in 5 years to maxiumize power for the blower deal with it then. Don't kill your motors power by trying to accomadate a mod that you will do in five years.
10-01-2009, 09:10 PM
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Re: Help me build a 383!
I wonder if those RHS heads are going to flow better than the ones on the crate. in the description it says "ported vortec heads", do you think it would be worth it to install new heads? I'd like to know what heads they are using on there. Probably just GM heads.
10-01-2009, 09:39 PM
#14
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Re: Help me build a 383!
The crate uses stock GM vortecs machined for the LT4 springs with a light port job. They are nothing fancy. But the Vortecs do not need anything fancy to make power. They are crate head out of the box.
10-01-2009, 09:48 PM
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Re: Help me build a 383!
This is getting better and better lol, all I have to do is drop this badboy in, bolt up the intake and all the accessories and i'm ready to roll. (and a tune)
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