code 34?
03-05-2002, 08:51 PM
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code 34?
my 88 iroc is running really rough and i'm getting a code 34. does that mean the mass air meter is dead? if so do i have to buy another stock one or is there an aftermarket unit i can buy?
thanks,
BigMike2043
thanks,
BigMike2043
03-05-2002, 09:54 PM
#2
Kevin,
The MAF sensor is an expensive item. Before you rush out to get a new one, check the system a bit. You may have a problem with either the MAF power and/or MAF burnoff relays. That can be eliminated easily by exchanging the two realys. If one is bad, the code will change from a '34' to a '36'.
Other things you should do first:
1. Check the electrical connector at each of the relays;
2. Check the electrical connector at the MAF sensor itself;
3. Inspect the intake ductwork for leaks, splits, disconnected tubing, cracks in the air boxes, or any source of an air leak;
4. Inspect all vacuum hoses and gasket areas for the same leaks;
5. Make sure the TPS sensor is adjusted properly (not too high);
6. Check the PCV system for leaks, and make sure the oil filler cap is leakproof - you can't use a breather-type cap in a MAF system;
If all those check out and the MAF still generates the error code, you can check the MAF output signal with a voltmeter.
If you determine that the MAF has failed, instead of a remanufactured replacement or a copy of the original hot wire type sensor, check out the Wells/Conrad SU-145 MAF sensor. It has a more durable thick film sensing element instead of the frail hot wire, flows better, has no heat sink in the air stream, has a single flat metal matrix in the inlet end instead of a round wire screen in each end, and is usually a lifetime gauranty item depending on where you get it. They are about $170.00 new. not rebuilt.
The MAF sensor is an expensive item. Before you rush out to get a new one, check the system a bit. You may have a problem with either the MAF power and/or MAF burnoff relays. That can be eliminated easily by exchanging the two realys. If one is bad, the code will change from a '34' to a '36'.
Other things you should do first:
1. Check the electrical connector at each of the relays;
2. Check the electrical connector at the MAF sensor itself;
3. Inspect the intake ductwork for leaks, splits, disconnected tubing, cracks in the air boxes, or any source of an air leak;
4. Inspect all vacuum hoses and gasket areas for the same leaks;
5. Make sure the TPS sensor is adjusted properly (not too high);
6. Check the PCV system for leaks, and make sure the oil filler cap is leakproof - you can't use a breather-type cap in a MAF system;
If all those check out and the MAF still generates the error code, you can check the MAF output signal with a voltmeter.
If you determine that the MAF has failed, instead of a remanufactured replacement or a copy of the original hot wire type sensor, check out the Wells/Conrad SU-145 MAF sensor. It has a more durable thick film sensing element instead of the frail hot wire, flows better, has no heat sink in the air stream, has a single flat metal matrix in the inlet end instead of a round wire screen in each end, and is usually a lifetime gauranty item depending on where you get it. They are about $170.00 new. not rebuilt.
Last edited by Vader; 03-05-2002 at 09:56 PM.
03-06-2002, 08:11 PM
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Car: 1987 GTA
Engine: PT88 Turbo DART 406
Transmission: th400
Axle/Gears: 9" ford
The relays are right on the firewall on the drivers side...the one will say MAF Power on it and the burnoff relay and the other relay that Has to do with something else are the same PN.... You would have to look at a wiring diagram to see which ios the MAF burnoff relay and which was the UNMAF related relay thats the same Part...sorry if that sounds confusing....
Problem is there are 3 relays up front..... 2 of them are the same relay but different circuits...Nothing but wire color going to the distinguishes them...
Problem is there are 3 relays up front..... 2 of them are the same relay but different circuits...Nothing but wire color going to the distinguishes them...
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