CAT

I have a question regarding the hydraulicclutch set up in my 84 Z/28. I have gone thru an entire drivetrain upgrade. It currently has a destroked 400 with 11.1 pistons and the whole nine yards. I replaced the original t-5 with a richmond 5 speed and a lakewood scattershield. New hayes flywheel pressure plate and to bearing.
I am having difficulty getting the clutch to disengage. It is absoulutley at the end of its travel even after making a new extended adjuster.
Everyone say s to put in manual linkage from an 82. OK I'll do that ,however my questions is, I have access to a v6 stick car. would the linkage be the same for a V8 car? Next remember I have a 400 block, how does the crosshaft connect, it must have to attach to the block somehow, right. The block is a 1973, to my knowledge they did not put manual trannys in anything with a 400. So I'm wondering if the block would even be drilled to accept the cross shaft. Can anyone with any knowledge respond. Your help is appreciated. I cant' be the first this has happened to. Thanks in advance.

chevy350

check the slave cylinder or master cylinder for the clutch.

85yellowiroc-z

manual is better,less parts to wear out.(theyre hard to find though)

SSC

Well alot of 4x4 trucks came from the factory with a 400 and a manual 4 speed so it will accept a Z bar. Theres no real reason why your slave is at the end of play/not disenguaging the clutch unless it has air in it??? I'd rather have a hyd setup then a linkage less vibration, fewer broken Z bars and more pressure for a lighter pedel. I can barly push the clutch in on my 76Pu when Ive got her spun up, hyd is much easyer in this situation. I plan on swaping over to a hyd setup myself.

85yellowiroc-z

I prefer the mech. setup,you get alot better "feel" for clutch engagement,less problems.
I never had any problems with breakage
on my camaro('82Z28,sold recently).What has broken on you?
Gary

laiky

do you have an adjustable pivot ball in that scattersheild?? How abput a stock clutch fork?? I got the lakewood clutchfork for my 84 with the scattersheild and it was just close enough to the stock one to cause you to think it would work!! I would say that the hydraulic linkage is not your problem ( i have your same setup with no problems) it should work just fine unless something else is out of whack. You must set the clutch pivot ball to a specific height, i measured the old one and matched the height on the scattersheild. The lakewood clutch fork doesn't seem right to work with the 3rd gen setup, i used a stock one. What kind of clutch are you running? is it a stock type or some othet aftermatket design?

CAT

I have a new hayes diaphragm type clutch and pressure plate. I even went as far as machining a new pivot point to extend the throw on the clutch fork. I currently have it run into the fingers on the pressure plate.
When you installed your scattersheild did you also use the block protector plate because this adds about .125" by spacing the scattershield away from the motor. I just know added .100 shims behind the flywheel over the weekend however it does not seem to be any better. Still frustrated. Any thoughts. Does anyone know if the linkage out of a 6 cylinder car is the same as the 8 cylinders car?

laiky

you have to use the block plate!! It changes the whole setup if you don't!! You should NOT shim the fly wheel, you will weaken it and probably cause a major failure. What kind of flywheel are you using?? maybe its too thick or thin. I would suggest you carefully chck your partnumbers, and maybe try another slave cylinder. Can you manually disengage the clutch?? if you pry the fork back does it disengage?? What kind of fork are you using?? Is the throw out bearing installed backwards?? it should be with the thick side toward the pressureplate

CAT

Yes, throw out bearing is installed properly and I'm using the OEM clutch fork. I am using a new hayes 30lb billet flywheel.
I do have the block plate installed as well.
Finally, I was able to get it to disengage however I'm not to optomistic. Yes, it works enough to move the car back and forth in the garage but as I said, I have to have the adjustment all the way up with the throwout bearing contacting the fingers on the pressure plate. That just dosent seem right. I am also concerned about power shifting with the adjustment being so close. I just freshly assembled a desrtoked 400 punched out .30 over for 393 cu.in. making about 500 hp. I have not had the car out of the garage in over 2 years and spring is around the corner. (3months to go before the snow melts. Thanks in advance for your interest.

laiky

you don't by any chance have a T5 laying around? I would swap it back to see if that helps but i can't see how it would. You could try an original bellhousing to see if there is any difference. When i put mine in i was very careful to match the height of the adjustable pivot ball to the old one, have you tried adjusting this? it will move the fork and bearing back and forth in relation to the pressure plate. If you have done all this then try a new master / slave setup.

CAT

Yes, I have the original t-5 however I used a 168 tooth flywheel in lieu of the original 153 tooth, so the oem bell housing wont fit over that. I'm going to try what I have for now but I really appreciate your thoughts and help on this matter. When I figure it out I'll let you know the out come.
By the way will the plastic slave cylinder live with the heat off the headers? I have the oem heat shield bolted on for some protection and the headers are jet hotted. Anticipate any problems?

89formula#1

i'd also liek to knwo this

laiky

i have the exact same setup, been on the road for 8 months with no problems