wiseman9986

iTrader: (2)

im just curious im planning on having about 460hp and approx 480 tq will my 10-bolt be able to handle it all ive done is put richmond 3.73 gears in it ive heard these rearends cant hold up to much and its gonna be a daily driver only weekends at the track

drag1LE

You'll break. And you may just snap your axle off and have it bounce along your quarter. Like me.

Save yourself some heartache and strengthen the 10-bolt (several guys on here have done it) or go the extra safe route and upgrade to a 9".

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

yea, you'll shred it like crazy.

If you don't plan on slicks, trans-brake, or nitrous, i'd beef up the 10 bolt. If you see any of those options ever in your future, might as well skip the $ on the 10 bolt and go straight to the brute, 9" or 12 bolt

Apeiron

Richmond gears aren't the greatest thing for the street, either.

wiseman9986

iTrader: (2)

whats wrong with richmonds for the street? and what can i do to beef up my 10-bolt? thanks for all the great replies so far

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Richmonds apparently are more of a drag racing gearset. Very strong, for a shorter period of time, and noisy. That's not what you want for street. (hearsay, but I believe it).

beef up a 10 bolt -> do a search, many people ask about this. I know I have 2 threads going over how I rebuilt mine, what parts I used, part #'s, and how I liked them, how much I paid, and what obstacles I went through. I have no luck at all, in case you were wondering.

solid pinion spacer -ratech 4111 $25
main cap studs - TA racing $25
girdle - Jegs, summit, TA racing, etc $140-$175
posi - auburn, I forget the others. I left mine stock. $400
axles - superior, richmond, moser, etc etc. $150-210 I think.
weld the tubes - free->$15. IMHO doesn't really help, but I did it anyway. Did I mention it was free?
zytanium cross shaft - $30-$70. kinda bogus, once you realize what it actually does, it's kinda a waste of cash. I can see it on the offroad jeeps and whatnot, but our cars don't put that kind of force on the cross pin so... (ie, driving on a 30* angle, huge stress as if you rolled your car on it's side..)

sprojam

i have an article from chevy high performance 7.5 is enough they claim built correctly it can hold 425hp at rear wells with correct parts im running this combo in my car an i dynod at 430 at the flywheel i havent broke it yet but im not set up for the drags either more protour but i ve made some passes an im in th12s an seems to be holding up so far one season almost in the books. moser 28 spline axels- auburn pro series- 3:73 richmond gears quiet at that- jegs cover with supports cheaper then a 12 bolt but will it hold if i were on slicks id of spent the extra money but for now im keepin my fingures crossed

formul8!!

Save yourself the expense and trouble of putting band aids on a 10 bolt and buy a 12 bolt form Strange, Moser or whoever else sells them these days.

For a little more than what you will spend on 10 bolt parts and a flat bed home, you can get the 12 bolt.

sprojam

lol thats why my fingers are crossed but 1500 is the difference worth the money if you have it an are going to be at the track alot ill keep you guys posted i drive her pretty hard

wiseman9986

iTrader: (2)

i think im just gonna beef up my 10 bolt for now i have an old 9-inch in my back yard maybe ill just make it work myself when i have some free time

AnotherfastIROC

I am runnign the 10 bolt in my 86. I hve a 350, heads, cam, blower, headers 3" exhaust and run 245's street rubber out back. My factory 10 bolt is not happy but it gets the job done. I am building a 10 bolt right now 3.73's, posi, heavier axles yada yada yada....

Thebig thing on the 10 bolts from what I read (correct me if I'm wrong) is case flex. Basically it is a 4 cylinder rear in a V8 car. so that housing flexes something fierce. You can make it stronger by starting with welding the axles tubes to the housing continuously aroud the meeting point.

Next get a good rear cover, like the girdle offred on Spohn or summit, Lastly throw a set of C clip eliminators on there in case you blow the thing up...

last thing you want at the track is you axle crossing th finish line before your car...

If you plan to run slicks... Take it out sell it and get a 12 bolt or 9".

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

anotherfastIROC - is your q-jet blowthru or suck through? I'm just trying to find out if anyone has ever done a blowthrough q-jet before...

how fast is the car?

Apeiron

A roots blower would be draw-through.

AnotherfastIROC

It is a draw through, I did talk to some people who have done blow through on a Q-jet. The only way to get it to run Semi friendly is to build a whole enclosure around the carb. If you try a carb hat Like you can with a Holley, you will just end up blowing the float bowl dry and shutting th motor down.

You also need to get a high pressure Mechanical pump (7 PSI over you max boost) and a vacumme controlled pressure regulator. Or when the boost comes in, you will again end up blowing the float bowl dry, infact you'll blow the whole dang fuel system dry...

I haven't taken it to the track due to the weak t-5, but basically I can light the tires at will, in any gear except OD, and it could probably do it there if the I thought the input shaft wouldn't come through the floor...

I am running about 10lbs of boost now that my belt doesn't slip. I would have to say that it is very intense. Having been down the quarter in a 11 second Firbird before, I should be running in the mid to low 10's, my car just feels stronger thourgh out the entire power band than my buddies does... he even agrees... then again that is assuming my butt dyno is calibratd correctly.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

that's crazy!
I heard that draw through setups wear out the blower sooner due to fuel being in them, but hey it works eh?

hmm, yea, I was wondering what needed to be done to a q-jet, seal the throttle shafts etc... And I didn't understand how to boost reference a mechanical fuel pump... But hey, I don't have a blower, or plan on it in the near future, so i'll wait

Apeiron

You don't usually boost reference a mechanical pump, you boost reference a regulator downstream of a high pressure mechanical pump.

Orr89RocZ

iTrader: (20)

87 TA is pushing a solid roller 406...car runs high 10s na and low low 10s on bottle. has stock 10 bolt rear with posi and solid pinion spacer i believe. launces the crap outta it on slicks. big stalled auto. has held up fine so far.


but i agree, its kinda rare for them to be like that. for a street car tho, it should hold power as long as u dont abuse it too much

REDTAIL

iTrader: (1)

it's all about luck.my lo3 turned my 10 bolt in to a jiggsaw puzzule at the strip and it also ate a 5 gear in a t5.my old 2.8 went through 3 t5 tranny rebuilds.yet my 350 iroc with a t5 and a 10 bolt,that will pull on a c5 is fine so far (knock on wood)but i'm not putting much faith in them and have a extra tranny and rear end just in case

Jet Hydro

I just killed my stock rearend tonight at the drags. My car runs 12.0`s with 1.7 60 foot times. I think I`v got about 30 hard runs before killing it. Junk the stock rearend and save your self a but load of trouble!

Now, where to go get a bolt in 9" before next weekend? Anyone know who has the best deal??????????

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

That's a common misconception. This myth is due to people who try to run the Richmond Pro series gears in a street car. Richmond makes gearsets for street cars too. The pro series gears are made of a softer metal to absorb the shock load of a hard launch with sticky tires. Due to the softer metal they wear out too quickly to be driven lots of miles on the street. I've run the richmond street 3.73's in my 69 camaro's 12 bolt for about 15 years now without any noise whatsoever, and they've never even flinched launching hard with a 4 speed and a kevlar clutch. I have heard that the Motive brand gears are supposedly a little quieter in the 7.5 ten bolt rears than the Richmond street gears though.

StreetRoc85 350

the higher your gear ratio is, the less stress it will put on the rear. (for street purposes of course)

if you have a 400hp car with 3.08s, when you step on it your asking the rear end to turn the axles a lot faster that it would have to with 3.73s or 4.11s.

imagine trying to pedal a bicycle up a hill as hard as you could in top gear. you would probably rip your legs out of your hips trying. but put it in a lower gear, its not as painful and youre still pedaling just as hard.

does that make sense? i know what im trying to say but i dont know how to get it across....

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

Makes perfect sense to me. That's probably why you see so many LO3 cars trashing their T-5's so easily with a lot less horsepower than the TPI cars have. The same thing seems to apply with 700r4's as well. I see a lot of those trashed by cars with the crummy 2.73 ratio rearends too. I've been running 3.42's and now 3.23's for roughly the last 3 years, and my 700r4 is still going strong with no slippage with almost 230,000 miles on it!

Zepher

iTrader: (1)

Torque and shock load are what kill the 10bolts.
a high torque manual trans car with decent street tires wreak havok on 10 bolts.
My old 96 Trans Am LT1 6 speed with bolt-ons went through 13 rear ends in 3 years. broke 2 in one day. 6 of them were low milage complete rear ends while the rest were gear swaps, using whatever rear housing was on hand.
Car became a stalled Automatic with heads/cam 2 years ago and hasn't broken a rear since.
It's now getting a heads/cam/4400stalled LS1 (approx 440rwhp/400rwtq) and we'll see how the rear holds up.

Oh, and I broke my beefed up 10 bolt in my 88 Formula a few months ago and I don't have that much power, but I do mave a manual..
Had an Eaton Posi, Moser Axles, Motive 4.10 Gears, solid pinion spacer, TA Cover with end cap pre-load bolts.

1991L98G92

"My old 96 Trans Am LT1 6 speed with bolt-ons went through 13 rear ends in 3 years"

I'd say the car didn't go through 13 rear ends, YOU DID.

sprojam

ouch that sucks it sounds like you test your cars limit on a regular basis i have pretty much the same setup in my car but running a auburn an 3:73 gears so far so good. ive heard that a manual tranny wreaks havoc on rear ends due to the quick shock. my car on the other hand bangs 2nd gear really hard so if it breaks im guessin thats wear itll happen. i think if i were racin auoto cross or dragging every weekend id go 12 bolt. but believe it 12 bolt 9 inch no matter you beet it its gonna break this is one thing i work with an see on a daily basis bein a auburn gear clock puncher. an believe me i torcher 10 bolts 12 an 9inchers i have to say the closest i have seen to bullet proof is a 12 bolt with the 9 a real close 2nd but yet i think the 10 is a good affordable option for hotrodders just fact backed by opion

Jet Hydro

If you guy`s think they are so good buy mine, it`s a posi with disks and it only need spiders replaced. I`d take 150.00 for it but I`m keeping the rotors for my new rear-end

izcain

I agree with the post about Richmonds not being bad for the street since I built up a 10 bolt with richmond 4.10's and it held up great. I had over 15K on it! Even when I decided to bolt stickies on it and broke the rearend it was the posi unit that let go. The ring and pinion were fine. I took it out and sold the gearset and now it is in someone elses car making no noise. I don't recommend using the 10 bolt though since even though it can withstand alot it is still not very much insurance against failure. Going down the track @ 100 mph the last thing I want to worry about is having a axle failure! Safety First

BMmonteSS

You guys have the gear ratio thing all backwards. Say you have 100 ft/lb's of torque at the driveshaft. With a 3.00 gear ratio you'll have 300 ft/lb's turning your differential and axles. Now put in some 4.00 gears and you now have 400 ft/lb's turning your differential and axles. Higher (numerically) gears are harder on axles and differentials, which are the week links in the 7.5" rears.

The weakest link in the 7.5" rear end is the shear fact that you can only stuff so much metal inside that 7.5" ring gear. No way around that. I would save my money and go for a 9" rear setup for your car and get my center section out of a junk yard to save money. I don't see how having less than a 1000$ in a 9" would be unreasonable.

Jet Hydro

Here you 10 blot posi lovers go...Come get it while it`s hot...lol

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...bolt-posi.html

LoudmouthSS

iTrader: (6)

I am also planning on rebuilding the 10 bolt as of right now...12 bolts in the future though


Heres my old eaton posi...that was fun..







..thats the only "accident" i ever had with anything to do with my 10 bolt..

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

Hey Loudmouth, I like those custom louvers you added to your posi case! That's a pretty spiffy upgrade there! LOL. BTW, that's actually an Auburn unit. I'm guessing the pinion gear is what left the grooves in it right?

Air_Adam

Looks like you might have gone a bit far with the weight reduction

ProjectIrocZ28

no you have the gear thing all backwards. that 400lbs of torque because of gear reduction. the more gear reduction you have (higher number ratio), the less stress is going to the carrier, axles, ect. but the torque is multiplied greater, speed is slower. greater gear reduction can overcome much more resistance w/ less load/stress. a high speed/low torque gear has less gear reduction and will stress more under load than the opposite, since like was said before, pedaling from a stop on a bike is a lot harder in 10th gear than 1st.

Sonix

iTrader: (1)

Project - it's harder on your LEGS to bike in top gear, (just like the gear ratio thing is harder on your engine), nothing to do with the gears.
I think BMonteSS is right there. Anothing thing to think about is the number of teeth on a pinion, based on the ratio. More teeth means they are smaller, yet have to take equal force so...

LoudmouthSS

iTrader: (6)

thats an auburn unit huh? hmm i didnt know that lol..o well and yea i believe it was the pinion gear..it somehow backed off or something..its been awhile..