Destructimus

Hi I'm thinking of just putting a stock 28 spline gov-lock into my car. The only mods to my rear I'm looking to do for right now are welding the axle tubes and getting a rear end girdle. If I add a 100 or 150 shot of nitrous, coupled with the following mods I've already done, can I expect my rear end (or transmission for that matter) to disintegrate? Also, I should note my gears are 3.23s and I have an L98 engine, 700 r4 and 10 bolt rear.

Here's what I've done: MSD 6al, blaster 2 coil, 8.5mm wires, ngk plugs, edelbrock headers, 3 inch offroad, flowmaster muffler, k&n filter, afpr, sfc's, b&m shift kit, tv corrector spring, all the free mods... (pretty basic stuff, trying to make my car as fast as possible without breaking the bank).

Also, I don't intend to use slicks or drag radials, and I probably would only spray as an insurance policy, not at launch.

Thanks in advance.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No, it'll be OK, as long as you only put it into the back seat long enough to get it to the trash can.

If you actually install it in the rear end, then it's a whole different matter.

Unless you like cleaning up shrapnel out of your gas tank, you'd be wise to find something else.

Those things don't fix the fundamental problem with the Gov-Lock, which is, that no posi action whatsoever occurs, until AFTER wheel spin has already begun; at which point, once the difference in RPMs between the 2 axles reaches its "threshold", it locks up with a bang. That's when all the parts break and fly out from inside the carrier, with enough force sometimes to go completely through the cover, the heat shield, and into the fuel tank.

Destructimus

well damn

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

Those things are known far and wide to be junk; it's been discussed on here MANY times. Somebody even posted a pic once of his cover all blown out and the gas tank with the holes in it. After all, the rear end housing acts kind of like a little satellite dish or a flashlight reflector... it focuses the blast of shrapnel STRAIGHT rearward.

I hope you didn't pay any money for it.

joeblue83

iTrader: (8)

I have the 9 bolt 7.625 and still works great on my motor. But I am upgrading it in a few weeks. If you use street tires and don't spray off the line your rear end should be fine. If you hook hard off the line with spray it won't last to long. My

Destructimus

I probably won't even spray in first gear, period. From what I understand the gov-lock disengages at 20 or 30 mph, which is when I would spray. I was talking to a guy when I was at autozone today who seems to think that spraying in an engine with 90k miles will fry my rings on the first bottle so I might just say to hell with it all and save my money for something else. I got that posi unit for like $83 on ebay btw, so it was cheap. Got tired of looking for something better...

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

No such thing.

The 9-bolt has a 7.75" ring gear; the 7.625" is the 10-bolt. Not that any of that really matters to the issue at hand.

That's not how it works. Its action is based on THE DIFFERENCE in RPM between the 2 axles, not vehicle speed. It will do what it does at ANY road speed, from a dead stop to however fast the vehicle will go.

It has those 2 little weights you can see in there, each of which is driven by a side gear, each of which is coupled to an axle. As long as the axle speeds are close, nothing happens, and it acts like an "open" rear. However when the axles RPM difference exceeds somewhere around 100-150 RPM (roughly 2 revs per second), the little "governor" weights fly out and engage it. This allows it to go around normal corners at normal speeds without locking itself up, but then when one-wheel spin occurs, the RPMs of the 2 axles usually are MUCH higher than 2 revs pers second different, so it locks to prevent that. Works OK in its original application (light military OFF-ROAD vehicles), within its limits (very low power, low speed, poor traction). It's a grenade when used with some power and some traction, on pavement, in a high-performance situation where the speed of everything is MUCH higher.

My advice would be, put it back on eBay, and keep looking. I'm not surprised you're having trouble finding one though; EVERYBODY wants to buy such a thing, and NOBODY wants to pay alot of money. There's ALOT more buyers than there are sellers. You won't have any trouble finding somebody to take it off your hands. Advertise it in the truck section as a S-10 / Blazer / Bravada part, the people with those trucks explode those things all the time, and there's a ready market for it there.

Keep your eyes open for the posi out of a 98-up 4th gen. That will be a Zexel Torsen, which is a clutchless posi. Avoid ANY Auburn unit, which includes most of the stock ones in these cars, as well as 93-97 4th gens; and of course, the Eaton Gov-Lock. Since it's a seller's market, expect to pay more than $83 for something decent. There's a reason that POS is so cheeep... it's because it's a POS. If those were something good, you can be sure they would go for more than that, since a REAL Eaton posi is near $500. http://store.summitracing.com/partde...%2D19599%2D010

Destructimus

That was my original intention, was to go for a zexel torsen. I lost three auctions for them on ebay, two by less than $2. I had one lined up with a guy on the forums here, but I only talked to him via e-mail and when I asked him to basically write up a receipt for me because he wouldn't take paypal, I never heard from him again. It's been a real PITA from the get go.

sofakingdom

iTrader: (1)

I feel your pain.... but unfortunately, that doesn't make it any less the preferred option, or the Gov-Lock any less of a POS. Sorry for the dose of hard-nosed realism....

Sounds like on your eBay auctions, you simply got outbid. Even if the winner bid $500 more than you on a $10 item, if the bid increment is $1, you'll get beat by .... $1. You have no way of knowing what the winner's bid ACTUALLY was.

You might want to try an auction sniper like www.ezsniper.com and see if it helps. It's a bit underhanded, some might say; but OTOH, it avoids all the head games and bidding wars and all that, and furthermore, frees you from having to sit by your computer responding to other people's bids on stuff you want. If someone else is playing those games, and you can hit em before they see you coming and too late for them to hit back, your odds are greatly improved.

Destructimus

Actually I do use a sniper program - auctionstealer.com. Everybody else does it. I don't care about them lol. Anyway, the gov-lock is back on ebay as we speak. I also won a zexel torsen today. Sniped and got it for $152.50, which was a whopping 2 cents below my max bid and a bit more than I wanted to spend.

I won a TA rear end girdle two days before that for $88.87, an even heavier 1 cent less than my max bid, which I typed in as a tribute to the back to the futre movies. That zexel torsen might find its way back on ebay or the classifieds here too, cuz a complete rearend out of a 2000 just came up on there locally. Thanks for your help, I'll let you know how it all turns out.

Pat Hall

iTrader: (31)

I snipe every auction I bid on! Lol. I don't use a program to do it though. I just make sure to be logged on when something is ending, refresh until there's about 15 seconds left, then throw down my max bid. I don't even bother to throw down a bid before that. What's the point? It just drives up the price. I managed to snag a Torsen off there a few weeks ago for about $75. It helped that he didn't even list it as a Torsen though, it was just listed as a 10 bolt posi unit out of a 94 T/A. Kinda funny since the Torsens weren't available until 98, but a picture is worth a thousand words. He also sent me a 3.42 ring gear without a pinion gear, and the bearing caps from the housing. I told him he could just chuck that stuff in the trash and save on shipping weight, but he sent it anyways. Don't feel bad for what you paid for yours though. That's still a smokin deal compared to the price of a brand new Eaton unit. You really didn't do bad at all. You oughta just throw that Torsen in with the 3 series gear of your choice. Why bother with a 2000 rear that's too wide for your car anyways? In fact, I just noticed you already have 3.23 gears, so you could really set everything up cheap. Just swap your ring gear onto the Torsen carrier, make sure your backlash is in spec, and call it a day.

WIll36

iTrader: (12)

just my 2 cents but i would run drag radials like an ET street rather than street tires. I grenaded my stock rear while doing a hard launch on dry pavement because for whatever reason the tires spun then hooked really hard and destroyed the rear and damaged the transmission all in one shot. which added up to 1000 dollars of rebuilding the tranny and buying another axle. I also have a 3" heavy duty driveshaft so had that not been there it may have been a different story, but anyhow with the nitrous your thinking about I would recomend a drag radial with a lighter right foot if your worried about the longevity of your parts, because they will be more consistent and predictable