pinion shaft seal
#1
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Car: 85 camaro z28
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T56 6 speed
Axle/Gears: 3.27 borg warner 9 bolt
pinion shaft seal
is this replacement pretty easy or is it hard. for what i understand you must have a puller for the pinion shaft? and is it just taking parts off from the outside of the rear end. there is no need to pull the cover lid right?
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Car: 86 Trans Am, 92 Firebird
Engine: 408 sbc, 3.1L of raw power
Transmission: TKO600, T5
Axle/Gears: Moser 9", 3:70 trutac, 3:23 torsion
Re: pinion shaft seal
no puller required.
be very careful to mark the location of the nut holding the yoke on. It needs to go back on exactly the same as it came off so you dont affect preload.
take the nut off
take the yoke off, it should come right off.
the seal is just pressed in, grab a small flat screwdriver so something similar, using a hammer work the driver between the seal and the housing, working around the entire seal, and work it off. then just tap the new one on gently with a drift and hammer, alternating sides. it not hard, but you will loose all the gear oil.
be very careful to mark the location of the nut holding the yoke on. It needs to go back on exactly the same as it came off so you dont affect preload.
take the nut off
take the yoke off, it should come right off.
the seal is just pressed in, grab a small flat screwdriver so something similar, using a hammer work the driver between the seal and the housing, working around the entire seal, and work it off. then just tap the new one on gently with a drift and hammer, alternating sides. it not hard, but you will loose all the gear oil.
#3
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Re: pinion shaft seal
If you follow his advice you should have no issues. I usually use something sharp, like a chisel, or a dremel with a small cutoff wheel to make a corresponding mark between the nut and the pinion shaft. I also count how many threads are sticking out of the end of the nut before taking it off. It's also a good idea to put a few drops of red loctite on the pinion shaft threads to prevent the nut from loosening up later on. A really good method of driving the new seal in is to use one of those short exhaust pipe adapter pieces you can buy at parts stores. If you get the one that goes from 2-1/4 to 2-1/2, one side of that adapter will fit right inside the metal depression of the seal, and it clears the end of the pinion. Makes a great driver tool for getting the new seal in evenly. Just tap around it with a hammer until the seal is seated all the way. Then put the yoke back on, washer and nut, and tighten it until your marks are lined back up.
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