700R4 removal for probuild quick question
#1
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Car: 1987 Red IROC-Z Hardtop
Engine: Bolt on 305TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:23
700R4 removal for probuild quick question
Hey guys i posted some other threads on here about my nice blown up trans recently haha, im getting it pro built. my bud came over tonight and for the last 8 hours we been taking it out (3 of those hours were focused on the top 2 bolts, pain in the ***!) but anyways right now were ready to pull it out.
So does it just drop down? or do we have to pull it back and drop it. we tried wiggling it around and it wont crack loose from the motor, everything is disconnected and all that. a quick reply would be awesome cause were going to continue this tomorrow.
So does it just drop down? or do we have to pull it back and drop it. we tried wiggling it around and it wont crack loose from the motor, everything is disconnected and all that. a quick reply would be awesome cause were going to continue this tomorrow.
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Car: Trailblazer EXT 4.2 (Firebird Form)
Engine: 5.1 4bbl
Transmission: 700R4 Mega Raptor Level 4
Axle/Gears: 2.73
Re: 700R4 removal for probuild quick question
Hey guys i posted some other threads on here about my nice blown up trans recently haha, im getting it pro built. my bud came over tonight and for the last 8 hours we been taking it out (3 of those hours were focused on the top 2 bolts, pain in the ***!) but anyways right now were ready to pull it out.
So does it just drop down? or do we have to pull it back and drop it. we tried wiggling it around and it wont crack loose from the motor, everything is disconnected and all that. a quick reply would be awesome cause were going to continue this tomorrow.
So does it just drop down? or do we have to pull it back and drop it. we tried wiggling it around and it wont crack loose from the motor, everything is disconnected and all that. a quick reply would be awesome cause were going to continue this tomorrow.
#3
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Car: 1991 Camaro RS/1989 Vert RS
Engine: 355/350
Transmission: T-5/T-5
Axle/Gears: BW9bolt3.45posi/3.23 Posi
Re: 700R4 removal for probuild quick question
But you need to pull back because the torque converter needs to slip out of the transmission.
Also for when you put the tranny back on, Try jacking up the back of the tranny when the 4 bottom bolts are bolted into the motor. That will tilt the motor towards the front exposing those top bolts a LOT better.
#4
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Car: 90 Camaro
Engine: 350 tpi
Transmission: t56
Axle/Gears: 4.10
Re: 700R4 removal for probuild quick question
It might be really hard to break it loose from the engine if its never been apart before. I ended up taking a really thin screwdriver and using it like a chisel on the seam between the transmission and engine on each side to get them to separate, the dowel pins were seized up in the holes. Once it broke loose maybe 1/8 of an inch it was really easy to slide it off the rest of the way. I must've yanked, shook, pulled, and swore at that transmission for half a day before I resorted to the hammer and screwdriver!
#6
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Car: 1987 Red IROC-Z Hardtop
Engine: Bolt on 305TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Re: 700R4 removal for probuild quick question
Sure did! now that you mention it we DID forget to undo the flywheel to torque converter bolts last night and we were under the car trying to figure out why the trans wasn't just sliding out. this is the first time i ever pulled a transmission and it was not hard at all. once we undid the three bolts it took some wiggling and some cursing and swearing and it slid right out, but it was really hard to pry away from the motor. That technique (leaving the side bolts and jacking the trans to get to the top bolts) would have made a WORLD of difference! i nearly killed my hand trying to get the passenger side one. we took off the dist cap to free up some room. hope that doesn't mess up my timing?
#7
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Re: 700R4 removal for probuild quick question
glad you got it.
Another good trick to get to the top bolts is... put floor jack under trans pan, unbolt the trans crossmember and then let the jack down some. That angles everything back alittle. I then take a long extension or two that I have, use a 9/16 swivel socket and my trusty 3/8 drive ratchet. Works pretty good at times. Especially on the 4th generation cars. But like mentioned earlier, I usually take the top two out from the top of my 88 using a very handy flex head ratchet wrench. Those things are awesome.
Another good trick to get to the top bolts is... put floor jack under trans pan, unbolt the trans crossmember and then let the jack down some. That angles everything back alittle. I then take a long extension or two that I have, use a 9/16 swivel socket and my trusty 3/8 drive ratchet. Works pretty good at times. Especially on the 4th generation cars. But like mentioned earlier, I usually take the top two out from the top of my 88 using a very handy flex head ratchet wrench. Those things are awesome.
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#9
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Car: 1987 Red IROC-Z Hardtop
Engine: Bolt on 305TPI
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3:23
Re: 700R4 removal for probuild quick question
should be interesting putting it back in, i heard its harder? sometimes i have trouble remembering what bolts go to what so this time i tried to keep what goes with what. those ratchet wrenches look so handy, they would be better for the job than a normal wrench i might buy one for putting the trans back in. i was at canadian tire and saw a set but it goes for 80 bucks! some were a bit less but i dont like to cheap out when it comes to tools
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1967, 305, 700r4, 91, california, camaro, crossmember, diego, guide, probuild, removal, s10, san, transmission