85SILVERBULLET1

Ok so i have been searching the forums and have not found any help. I have a liberty geared tko 600 with a lakewood bellhousing 15020. I am using the twin disc clutch from american powertrain(supposed to work with factory hydro) with their billit flywheel. I have been through 3 napa slave cylinder assy now. Last one lasted less than a minute. I did use the factory clutch fork and the pivot ball is from a quick time pro. I replaced the original clutch master as well. Lakewood recomends their clutch fork 15500 and adjustable pivot ball 15501. Mabe the geometry is diff from the factory clutch fork and pivot ball. Other than that I am kind of out of ideas. Has anybody run into this?

85SILVERBULLET1

talked to lakewood they dont have a clue. Told me bellhousing is designed to use stock clutch fork.....wtf. Anyway i am going to try o reilys slave that is metal rather than the napa plastic. we will see....

jmd

iTrader: (4)

The 84-92 fork pivot ballstud is farther from the throwout bearing retainer centerline than mechanical clutch setups and the 15500 fork will NOT work.

The 15020 should mirror the 84-92 bell other than ballstud thread size. I've seen a few of these go in and work fine.

First, what's failing on the slaves? The seals, so it ends up leaking at the boot?

Did you verify centerline runout of the Lakewood and correct it with offset dowels as needed?

If you press the pedal only partway, does the clutch release (3000rpm, pedal halfway, car on level ground, car sits still) ? If yes, over-travel of the slave isn't going to allow it to live long. If that's it, a stop added to keep the pedal from going too far could work, or an adjustable ballstud might help (but might also make the fork geometry worse.)

If the release is more correctly fairly close to the floor, then you need to know if the geometry is correct. Getting some clutch information might help. Your goal is for the fork to be -14 degrees (I'm just making this number up) from parallel with the TO brg. at rest and + 14 degrees with the clutch released. Due to the shape of the fork, that could be odd to measure.

Gonna need more info to solve this one, once you junk the new slave.

85SILVERBULLET1

ok so failure on the plastic slaves is at the snap ring. You can see the plastic has flexed and allowed the snap ring to fall off causing the piston to over travel. In comparison to the new metal slave there is at least a 1/4 of an inch less travel than the plastic unit due to where the ring is located in the tube. the metal unit is much more beefy. so i will check the throw tomorrow. I figure that if i can get the new slave to survive then i can actually take some measurements. The new clutch is quite a bit thicker(twin disc) than the old clutch(center force df) so mabe an adjustment of the size on the throw out bearing may be needed.

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Aluminum with that internal snap ring isn't going to survive the equivalent of a hydraulic press.

The hyd. release third gen cars use a clutch that basically interchanges with plenty of earlier mechanical linkage cars.

However, it isn't "supposed to work with factory hydro" if the PP required travel for release is meaningfully different. I highly suspect it's shorter. I'm not sure how that was communicated to you by the vendor but it needs said. Or stated in the included product literature.

Get the down and dirty specs on the clutch operational measurements and then you'll have something to work with to proceed.

85SILVERBULLET1

here are some pics.