NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

Sounds good.

Try a cavalier slave. Also, once assembled, disconnect the fuel and turn it over. It will be obvious if your clutch fork is hitting the PP!



Wish I woulda tried that first!

chucks_net

so I'm going to order a cavalier slave and a 95 camaro clutch line -sound good?

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

good, I THINK. Still have yet to try mine as Spec still has my clutch

Jupiter

iTrader: (1)

Am in the process of aquiring all my T56 swap parts. I already have a Ram adjustable m/c installed with my T10 so, i will be using a T5 slave because it has a bleeder. With the adjustable m/c it will be easy to adjust for any pressure plate rub or under/over extending issues of any kind. And the fact that i get to adjust peddle hight is really cool without having to cough up an arm and a leg for the Tick m/c. The T5 slave i am looking at is this one with a bleeder provision...
PowerTorque® - Clutch Slave @ Oreilly's Auto parts
I used a 22" brake line from Jegs and a 90* fitting so the line coming off my m/c came back to the firewall and through an exisiting grommet from old wiring harness no longer used, under the carpet and out a new hole/grommet right near where it attaches to the slave. I routed it this way to keep the line away fom my header/heat.

P.S. looking at those pics of slaves, it appears that if your getting to much throw with your setup then you can easily make your own slave pushrod and cut to length!!!

chucks_net

The clutch line for a 95 camaro is $90-$160

So I bought this whole kit for $93:http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...parttype=10290


I also picked up a slave cylinder from a 1990 cavalier for $18: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/rafr...&parttype=2044

I got the last one at $18

I should have everything I need to get it where it should be

chucks_net

Looking at it again... will this be long enough? http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/more...096&cc=1035908

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

if it's for a 4th gen, yes.

dhirocz

iTrader: (2)

I used a T5 master and slave on mine with a T-56 pressure line. Other than minor grinding on the fitting going into the slave, it went fine. I'm using 4thgen pedals. Still has a high clutch engagement issue. I already made the master adjustable and that didn't help. I'm going to try to raise the pivot on the clutch pedal to lessen the travel some. This reminds me of my 4thgens, just a little worse.

chucks_net

Here is a pic of the T56 hydro setup all together and a cavalier slave. There is a difference in slaves

NufNuffZ28

iTrader: (10)

Cavalier slave fixed my T56/t5 master/t5 pedals issue.....

chucks_net

Looks like the slave just doesnt have as long of a shaft. the throw capabilities may be different as well.

I think I will leave the T56 components together and either adjust the attachment point on the clutch pedal or make the master input shaft adjustable as others have done. The T56 slave just looks like a better product.

dhirocz

iTrader: (2)

I used the T-5 parts I had since they were brand new and my T-56 stuff was worn out. I like the T-5 slave as it has a bleeder on it. Made no difference in pedal travel or feel. I'm going to try to raise it half an inch and see how that works.

I would consider modifying the master linkage to make it adjustable a must. I couldn't stand the pedal position before, I prefer my pedals both up and next to each other. Now I just need a new bushing on mine.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

If you havent installed it in the car yet, I agree that making the master adjustable is a better idea. If it's already in the car, just swapping out the slave is much easier and is starting ot have a strong track record of being an effective solution at this point.

The cavalier slave has a larger bore. The pushrod length means nothing from one slave cylinder to another. It will simply expand until it seats into the clutch fork cup. The thing that changes is the amount of movement in the slave cylinder pushrod for the amount of movement in the master cylinder. The reason taht changes is the bore size in the cavalier slave. It is 1.25 inches vs 1.0 inches for a T5 slave and I think a T56 slave too. The same amount of fluid pushed through the master cylinder has to fill more space in the slave, resulting in less fork movement.

In short, if you're dealing with too much clutch fork movement (As me and nuff nuff and others have been) that resulted in the clutch fork banging off the pressure plate, the cavalier slave's different "throw capabilities" (as determined by its bore) are precisely why it solves the problem.

By making the master adjustable, the pedal will retain the same stiffness, but you just adjust how far you can depress it by adjusting it's "neutral" position. The cavalier slave results in a softer pedal since you're reducing the total throw of the clutch fork, but spreading it throughout the same amount of pedal movement as before. It's the equivalent of using a longer breaker bar - just gives you more leverage.

chucks_net

This makes sense. I really need to take a look... realistically I wont get this done till spring. I spend my winter building motorcycles

Keoman

iTrader: (3)

Its spring!

camaro211z28

What about just getting a stainless line from and t5 v6 4th gen in any local junkyard. Should be all the same length as a lt1 if not close. Correct me if im wrong

jmd

iTrader: (4)

Most 4th gen V6 T5s had a concentric slave cylinder (similar to 98-up LS1 cars) so the end of the line is different.

91interceptorZ

iTrader: (3)

Not to bring up an old thread....but what was the final verdict on what the optimal setup would be? without breaking the bank.

How far off the floor does the t5 m/c 3rd gen pedals with cavalier slave engage? better than any other setups minus modding your pedals?
Just curious what the results of driving around have been?

91interceptorZ

iTrader: (3)

and do you use 3rd gen master, 3rd gen pedals with 1990 cavalier slave
OR
4th gen master, 3rd gen pedals, cavalieir slave ???

I've seen both ways on different post that says they work????

little help, my T56 swap is complete....only thing needed is hydros installed

91interceptorZ

iTrader: (3)

and I've seen 1988 cavalier slave and 1990 slave. They are the same part number except for the Z24 which looks same but different part number? which slave?

84TA327

I know this is somewhat of a long shot, but I am in need of some help with the hydraulic set up for my t56 swap. It is an lt-1 t56 mated to a sbc, the car has factory 3rd gen pedals in it. I have the whole 4th gen hydraulic set up but I don't know the best way to go to clearance things properly.

Does running a caviler slave with 4th gen hydraulics and 3rd gen pedals solve the potential rubbing issues? What would be the best way for me to go about this, I;d like to keep the pedals in it, and as I said I already bought the 4th gen hydraulic set up.