Clutch Slave Cylinder "Shipping Strap"?
#1
Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Oct 1999
Location: Alamogordo, NM, USA
Posts: 261
Likes: 0
Received 4 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: 1969 Z/28, 1983 Z/28
Engine: 350, 305 (L69)
Transmission: TKO-600, T5
Axle/Gears: 3.42, 3.73
Clutch Slave Cylinder "Shipping Strap"?
I am working on an 84. I have an 83 so I have never worked on a hydraulic clutch before. I believe the slave cylinder was changed previously and it still has the shipping strap attached. Is this supposed to be removed before installation? The strap also has a cap on the end of the pushrod and it's on there pretty good.
Makes me wonder if the cap is designed as a wear point/cushion. The straps obviously broke the first time it was used...
Thanks!
Makes me wonder if the cap is designed as a wear point/cushion. The straps obviously broke the first time it was used...
Thanks!
#2
COTM Editor
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 9,932
Likes: 0
Received 1,860 Likes
on
1,274 Posts
Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder "Shipping Strap"?
I don't understand how you're smart enough to figure out how to change out the part but then you leave the zip ties on. I just..... seriously..... okay.... way confused how that happens.
#4
COTM Editor
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 9,932
Likes: 0
Received 1,860 Likes
on
1,274 Posts
Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder "Shipping Strap"?
Well, in that case I guess the verdict is in that you're smarter than me!
#7
Supreme Member
iTrader: (2)
Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder "Shipping Strap"?
There is no way that is meant to stay on there. The rod can't travel if it is. Beside the picture that GT473 posted I haven't seen one installed that way.
Edit: I'm betting you leave it on for ease of installation and then can simply cut either side but leave it "in place" with no ill effects.
Edit Edit: In fact if you look at GT's picture that is exactly what is going on there.
Okay, mystery solved. Install it, then cut the straps.
Edit: I'm betting you leave it on for ease of installation and then can simply cut either side but leave it "in place" with no ill effects.
Edit Edit: In fact if you look at GT's picture that is exactly what is going on there.
Okay, mystery solved. Install it, then cut the straps.
Trending Topics
#8
COTM Editor
iTrader: (22)
Join Date: Mar 2001
Posts: 9,932
Likes: 0
Received 1,860 Likes
on
1,274 Posts
Car: '89 Firebird
Engine: 7.0L
Transmission: T56
Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder "Shipping Strap"?
In the picture below, it looks like the straps broke away after first use. Hydraulics probably broke them like it was nothing. Personally, I would trim them away, appears to be useless after being installed.
The following users liked this post:
TTOP350 (07-24-2023)
#9
Supreme Member
Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder "Shipping Strap"?
Yup designed to snap on first use and make install easier. keep the cup it help prevent squeaking and wear to the fork and pushrod
The following users liked this post:
gt4373 (07-25-2023)
#10
Junior Member
Join Date: Apr 2008
Location: Tucson, AZ
Posts: 66
Likes: 0
Received 6 Likes
on
4 Posts
Car: 84 Z-28 Camaro, 2022 Chevy 2500
Engine: 383
Transmission: T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder "Shipping Strap"?
the hays/chilton and the gm service manuals specifically state do not remove the nylon bushing/shipping strap, and that it will break apon the first application of the clutch, you are also supposed to change out the master/slave cylinder (they used to be sold already assembled and filled) at every clutch change according to the GM manual (but not in the hays/chilton)
#11
Supreme Member
iTrader: (3)
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Las Vegas
Posts: 2,674
Likes: 0
Received 242 Likes
on
182 Posts
Car: 1987 Formula (original owner)
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: T5
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt/3.45
Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder "Shipping Strap"?
Interesting that this thread came up, considering the several "chirping" complaints in the last few years. Yes, as others have said and shown, the nylon cap stays on. As the OP suspected, it provides a cushion between the metal rod and the metal fork. When the tip of the rod eventually wears through the nylon cap, and you get metal to metal contact, that's when the chirping will begin.
It makes sense that there have been so many complaints of chirping recently, because the time is likely up for the nylon caps on most original slave cylinders. I judge that by my own, which happened about 20 years ago, when mine already had a mileage equivalent of the age that many of your cars are just now reaching.
As for the straps, once they're broken, then you can slide those unsightly things out of the cylinder and get rid of them.
It makes sense that there have been so many complaints of chirping recently, because the time is likely up for the nylon caps on most original slave cylinders. I judge that by my own, which happened about 20 years ago, when mine already had a mileage equivalent of the age that many of your cars are just now reaching.
As for the straps, once they're broken, then you can slide those unsightly things out of the cylinder and get rid of them.
#12
Supreme Member
Re: Clutch Slave Cylinder "Shipping Strap"?
I can confirm first hand things start to squeak pretty quick if you remove the nylon bushing
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
berlinettakid
Transmissions and Drivetrain
3
06-09-2004 12:05 AM