What?

iTrader: (1)

Hello. I drive an maro with a 2.8 v6 and its an auto with 110 k. My friend challenged me to a race next month. Hes got a 94 or 97 Beretta with a 3.1 v6. And I really want to beat him because he used to talk so much trash when he had his 4 banger mustang, and now that hes got a v6, he thinks hes untouchable. I gots about 300 bucks to spend. Any ideas for the best mods for that price.

2_point8_boy

Nitrous

What?

iTrader: (1)

not nitrous. i dont think my engine could handle it. plus i want the effects to be permanent. i was thinking of one of these:
FastChip

2_point8_boy

You're gonna have to gain at least 40 hp to even have a chance, your talking about an older technology RWD cast iron head 2.8L VS a newer FWD, Aluminum Head 3.1...


Not gonna happen with just a chip.

Firl

rent a car for 150$ a day

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

QFT! I was going to say buy/rent a faster car.

Doward

I hate to say it, but nitrous is the ONLY option you have, for $300.

A set of headers would help, but not enough

Gumby

Most of racing comes down to the driver. If he can't drive.
He wont beat ya even in a top fuel dragster.

Plus street racing is illegal CMA
But most street racing isn't 1/4 mile, its half mile to a mile plus or until someone lifts. [I don't lift, Ill blow it up first.]

Do a good tune up, have everything set up right and just out drive him.Thats easier. Quiet often the slower car wins the race even in pro drag racing because the guy was a better driver.

I kept ahead of a newer V8 rustang last years because he just spun the tires. Dude wouldn't lift a sec for them to hook and he couldn't pass. His car was 100 times faster but he couldn't drive it right.

What?

iTrader: (1)

Not street racing. I live twenty minutes away from Gateway International Speedway.

I might just have to give it the gas then. But theres one problem with that, im only seventeen and my mom would kill me. She is very protective. Hell, me and my dad didnt even tell her I bought the car until a few days after i did.

Dale

iTrader: (12)

His Beretta is still based on the same block as us. It just has a gen2 top end.

Hes got less loss thru drivetrain being FWD
Hes got possibly better traction.
Not sure on weight.


300 to blow isnt really worth it. If hes a tool and cant drive, or his cars whipped you have decent odds.

I say just make sure its tuned up properly, and make sure everything you can take out of the car, is out. Speaker box, spare, no passangers, etc.

DMcRacer

Weight reduction is free and it does work. Take every thing you can out of the car. Have no more than a 1/4 tank of gas when you go, empty your washer fluid, etc. You might want to pull the front sway bar off, its easy to reinstall.

Try to go to the track at least once to practice before your race date. Drop your rear tire pressure to around 25psi, have the fronts at the highest recomended psi. Drive around the water box if you can. Just do a little dry burnout, if your car will burn out. If you can cut a good light it helps. You leave on the third yellow, dont wait till the green light comes on. Practice stalling the car up. If you dont have traction problems stall it up till it tries to push the front tires. If its spins you'll have to stall it lower.

Try to borrow a set of skinnies for the front if you can. Less weight and less rolling resistance.

What?

iTrader: (1)

i appreciated all of your input but the race was canceled because his license got taken away (to many tickets). Plus, i just found out that illinois might be getting rid of emissions so im (dare i say it) gonna save up for a 350.

Project: 85 2.8 bird

so, ultimately he couldn't hang, and was a lousy driver anyway.

Xophertony

you win by default, if he gets his license revoked for sucking odds are you would ahve whooped his corsica driving *** anyway..

CharcoalBird

iTrader: (4)

Your car doesn't have much power, ever try riding a bike with flat tires??? Hard, isn't it? Lowering your psi won't help much if at all, especially if you have good tires. It may even hurt your time(incase someone else trys to run you.)

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Old post, but I thought I'd add some info...
True.
Also true due to all weight of drivetrain being over drive wheels.
My '93 Grand Prix (similar body style) weighs 20 lbs more than my bird fully loaded, not sure empty since I don't have the GVWR sticker for the bird.

$300 should get a gen 2 or 3 top end if he's willing to do the work.

Also true. Less weight means more top end speed.

2_point8_boy

You know the GVWR is the Gross Vehicle rating when fully loaded, right? It has nothing to do with what it weighs when empty. That's just the maximum safe weight of the vehicle.

coolrimsatleast

So now it's your turn to talk smack.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Umm, yeah, I did know that. If I had the GAWR or the empty weights, I would have posted them up for a comparo also. Like I said, the weight rating sticker on the 87 has disintegrated (yes, literally), so I have no other numbers to compare.

BTW, the numbers I have are 3132 for the 87 and 3158 for the GP...

2_point8_boy

Just making sure because I know that someone will go and look at theirs and assume that it's the empty weight of the vehicle.

The GVWR on my car is 3860 with a total passenger/cargo weight of 710 LBS, making it approx. 3150 empty if that helps, but now that I went and looked at it, I know what you were saying...sorry for the harsh reply.

The only option I don't have is P/L.

DMcRacer

You might have a good point about his car, but mine makes around 400 at the rear wheels [IMG][/IMG]

What?

iTrader: (1)

I hate you.
jk.