project89

iTrader: (1)

i got word back on some of the kits

3 stage kits will be available

stage 1

includes headers
t3/t4 hybrid
3inch downpipe
all plumping for coldside 2.5 inch
fmic/bov/ 35mm wastegate
19# injectors
basically everything except tunning comes set for 9 psi
250hp kit out the box


stage 2
upgrade to a t3/t4 t61
upgrade to fmic and cold side plumbing to 3 inch
afpr + fmu and 24# injectors
boost controller
40mm wastegate
325 out the box @ 12 psi


stage 3
upgrade to a 70mm t4 turbo
ported heads
custom cam
upgrade to 50 mm wastegate
walboro 225lph intank pump
42# injectors
afpr
headers/ coldside plumbing from the stage 2 kit
plug and play megasquirt unit with base tune
400+ out the box

awaiting dyno testing and final price ups

rsrsrs

iTrader: (9)

I'd love to add all that power to my car. Depends on the pricing tho lol. Not exactly rich.

project89

iTrader: (1)

lol the idea is about
1,500 for stage 1
1,800 ish stage 2
stage 3 no real estimate at this time, waiting to hear back from the company that will be doing the heads and ****
numbers posted will be base numbers for each kit so they will be capable of more but waiting on dyno testing to get real numbers

rsrsrs

iTrader: (9)

*sigh* Yea thas too much for me right now lol.

Maybe when I get this job at Cablevision I'll be able to put away more.

zs&tas

complete bolt on kit ? for 1500 ? what do you think postage to united kingdom would be, im reeeeaaaaallllllyyyy interested

project89

iTrader: (1)

id expect it to be a few hundred bucks but who knows ill have them look into it for ya

IROCtheThird

iTrader: (15)

Are these numbers with stock/ported heads?

project89

iTrader: (1)

stage 1 is stock - verified 250 hp
stage 2 is stock - to be dynoed
stage 3 would be ported heads/cam combo (shooting for 400 hp @ 7-9 psi) - to be dynoed

the stage3 kit should have no problem putting down 400 hp at low boost we will soon know for sure though

all numbers will be what the kits will make in bolt on and go form

IROCtheThird

iTrader: (15)

Is the stage 1 similare to what you are using?

noahTHEpurdy

iTrader: (1)

When will they be available?

project89

iTrader: (1)

stage 1 is similar in turbo size, but i have heads/cam 320hp @ 6 psi
i pretty much have the stage 3 with the stage 1 turbo

if all keeps going as smooth as they have been look for availability around the 2nd week in august

IROCtheThird

iTrader: (15)

I was planning on doing the heads, cam, intake, valvetrain, etc, etc...then when money comes available to do the turbo, I was looking at the same turbo you have and some other similar parts to stage 1, I plan to run 5-7 psi, maybe up it someday but I would be very happy with 240-300 hp.

nixon5

Will this bolt right up to a 86 2.8 firebird im thinking about that stage one. i figure if i do it all my self it would be about 800 so im probabally better off buying your 1500 dollar kit. Im really looking to run less than 9psi as it is my daily driver so this kit would be perfect.

project89

iTrader: (1)

YUP EVERYTHING IS TRUE BOLT ON

zs&tas

Thanks mate.

Picolini

I'm still a bit of a noob when it comes to turboing a car, so I've got a few questions.

For starters, I don't see an intercooler listed in any of those kits. I'm sure they're not 100% necessary, but still I bet one would make a world of difference on the incoming charge.
Reason I'm asking, if this is all bolt on then we, as the customer, would have to find the exact type of intercooler to match up.

Also, no cam listed in package 1 and 2. Any guess on the power gains in the first kit with a good boost oriented cam? Seeing as how you're saying it's already 250, I'd probably get 300hp, eh?

But ****, if this comes with all the parts, is bolt on, I'll be seriously interested in at least a stage 1, if not 2. I'm stuck with a stock 700-r4, so the 400hp would probably give me too much trouble.

Now, you say bolt on. I've seen bolt on kits that need special tools and even some welding here and this. Will this be 100% bolt on, out of the box, and be doable with regular joe-schmoe garage tools? Sorry to ask yet again, but I'm always suspicious at things with such great claims being such an easy, cheap kit. Less than 2 G's for twice as much HP sounds AWESOME to me, but not if I'm gonna need to pay for some one to put it in for me.

edit: Also, what's this mean?
"basically everything except tunning comes set for 9 psi"
Would I need to get my ECM tuned or something?

project89

iTrader: (1)

fmic = front mount intercooler, yes a boost cam will increase the power, i would recomend 260 grind cams for the stage 1-2 kits, the 250 hp is on a bone stock motor out of the box.

the stage 1 kit is a full bolton for 2.8 maf equiped cars, 3.1 cars will need an fmu to be properly tunned, the 2.8 maf system will allow upto 300 hp with no changes to the computer and is capable of about 375-400 hp in the right hands with supporting mods

stage 2 kit is good for about 450-500 max depending on how ur tuning and boost level

the stage 3kit isan all out drag kit and is capable of about 650-700 hp max

and yes no fab work /welding required, i will need a drill and a single 3 or 4 inch hole saw to cut one hole for the intercooler pipes, and u will need to drill 4 holes to mount the intercooler

Picolini

Awesome, not bad at all then.

Getting the 3.1 tuned might be a problem. Not sure if anywhere around here does that... where is the place making this located?
Any clue how much it'd cost to get the fmu mapped?

project89

iTrader: (1)

upstate ny,were working on a tune for 3.1 cars but a 4-1 or 6-1 fmu should work ill know more about it soon enough

Crux

That's an amazing offer!
Once my 3.4's running and I get in a rebuilt transmission, the turbo will most likely be my next step

Thanks for this contribution!

zs&tas

good work, hope YOU dont get ripped off, so whats the final deal then ? whos building the kits ? whos selling the kits ? what have they done in the past ? you know what i mean ......

project89

iTrader: (1)

hehe lets just say im very happy,the company doing the kits has done supra kits,v6 mustang kits,chevy kits and honda kits

Picolini

One thing we all need to keep in mind compression levels. Anybody know how much boost the 3.1 can take before it starts to cause damage? My guess is even 9psi will be too much, maybe 5-6.

project89

iTrader: (1)

it depends on how well its tuned, i was well over 18psi on a stock cr 2.8 and my new motor is 8.5-1 instead of 8.9-1 stock

Saigon_Bob

iTrader: (2)

those prices are decent.... i wish SSauto chrome hadnt ripped off BBSDesigns kit... he sold them here at an amazing price.

Picolini

So would you say that the 3.1 can handle the 12psi just fine? I don't think anyone would want to get this kit only to blow their engine due to too much boost.
What's your new engine, and how much boost? 18psi with stock CR sounds pretty damn risky.

project89

iTrader: (1)

the 2.8 held 23 psi
my new motor has seen over 18 psi on the street already but no track runs at anything over 6 psi so far

new engine is a 3.1 with hyperectic pistons,stock rods, and a lightened stock crank, with a set of portedheads and intake and custom cam

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

I would worry more about people blowing their engines because of the mileage/wear and tear on their engines. You cant just slap on a turbo kit onto any engine and think that it is going to be a reliable DD.

While this is a great step forward for the V6 crowd...I also worry that a lot of people will just slap one of these onto their, 135K mile, engines...and next thing you know it blows...causing the V6 crowd to diminish a little.

Both a blessing and a curse.

zs&tas

how tuneable are they? - ive never played with turbos, if i had stage one id want to start at a lower psi say making 200hp, how easy is this to do ? isnt it the actuator on turbo that holds the pressure ? as i say ive only tuned big carb motors before...

nixon5

what would you have to tune tho you have bigger injectors and you maf is reading more air therefore feeding more fuel. I dont think you would need an fmu for low boost.

'86 Camaro BoSs

where do you pick up an intake for a 3.1? i really want to keep my 3.1 and just rebuild, i've looked into the turbo thing, but i don't have the ability to make my own,

also can you recomend a cam for a stage one kit?

Picolini

I'm not too worried about wear and tear on my engine. It's got 95K miles on it, and it was stripped down and cleaned. I seafoamed it a month after I got it (about 1K miles ago) and it blew out an initial puff, so I know it's damn clean inside. I've also got a list of what was replaced internally, which isn't much, but still it should be in decent shape. Regular oil changes as well. While it's not the cleanest looking engine, I bet it could handle some boost.

Bottom line, if it could handle 5-6psi in daily driving and 12 psi on the weekends, I'd be all for the stage 2 kit. Even more so if the stock CR can run it (be it so w/ premium gas), otherwise it turns a 2K turbo kit into another grand of internals.

nixon5

The thing that has me the most worried is the oil getting it an dumpig it back into the pan. Do you have to drill the pan for the oil return?

project89

iTrader: (1)

ppl gota use common sence u cant just go bolt a stage 3 kit on a high milage motor and expect it to last,my first motor had 200k on it and saw high boost,but the motor was in pristine condition,no knocks no exessive blowby etc. the kits will be designed to be safe out of the box, i only see issues when ppl try to get more power out of them and have to retune the kits for higher power levels.

the stage 3 kit is the simplest kit out of all to retune though

u guys dont get it its not the boost or power that kills the engine,its detonation,as long as u dont detonate or run the motor lean etc u can run whatever u want for boost.

this is left upto the end user,theres a few diff ways u can do this,wetherwelding a fitting to the pan or using a bulkhead fitting or a self taping fitting etc

project89

iTrader: (1)

JUST OVER 200K ON A 2.8 HIGH BOOST OF 23PSI
this motor was boosted at around 90k miles so it has over about 110k boosted miles on it

why did it die u ask
cause when i did an oil change i forgot to add oil before i started it,the amazing part is it didnt spin a bearing it chewed them up a lil and oil presure was very low but i still ran boost on it after it got ****ed up





TAKE GOOD CARE OF UR MOTOR AND IT WILL LAST FOREVER

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

First off, there is no need to get all defensive.

Second, from what Ive heard from many mechanics and people who work at performance shops is that it isn't always safe to run boost on a high mileage engine. But if you say that detonation is the ONLY thing that can destroy a boosted motor....than I guess we've all been proven wrong. I guess all the worn out parts wouldn't have extra added stress applied to them by the added power...

See now look...I'm getting all defensive. All I'm trying to do is warn people and let them know that a rebuild would probably be the best thing to do before they just slap a turbo on and run boost. I'm not trying to prove you wrong...but just because your engine was taken care of so well...doesn't mean that everyones is.

project89

iTrader: (1)

i wasnt being defensive, seriously what are u going to stress, u may have worn bearings, and beat up valve springs,if u have tht ur not gonna go slapping a turbo on.rings on theother hand are actually good to be worn as long as u dont have massive/exsessive blowby,an n/a engine has tight ringgaps form the factory way to tight for anything more then around 7psi.

a fi motor has loser ringgaps to avoid butting and braking ringlands


it be a whole different story if these motors made anywere close the the power leves they could handle to begin with

and i do belive i stated that u should not be putting this on a beat up engine thats just plain common sense

no stock motor is gonna hurt the crankshaft or rods unless its been oil starved

nixon5

I have a welder i got from home depot so i might just weld it but how do you keep the metal shaveings out of the oil after you drill?? Wouldent that mess everything up.

project89

iTrader: (1)

u dont drill the oil pan, after u weld the bung to the pan u drive a punch threw the bung/pan

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Just take the damn pan off and do it with no worries....

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

Come on guys, stop the bickering. Yes, detonation is the only real problem when it comes to boost, but on the other hand, slapping a turbo on an engine w/worn piston rings isn't too smart either. Let's leave it at that....

project89

iTrader: (1)

or do what rob said, we looked into getting pans shipped with the kits with bungs pre welded but its hard to find bran new pans to sell with the kits at a reasonableprice. it be cheaper for u guys to take the car somwere and have it welded or pull the pan off urself and install an bulkhead fitting

most muffler shops will weld a bung in for like 30-50$'s, the thing to do would be to go get the pipe bung and plug, drive to the place have them weld it on and punch the hole,install the plug, then u can drive it home and install the turbo kits

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

You're right. My bad. There have just been certain things going on right now that have me on edge. I just see worn gaskets, rings, timing chain, bearings, and possibly bolts (far fetched...I know) being possible problems. But it also seems as though most people who will know about these kits are on here...and know better. Sorry...didn't mean to start anything.

Ill behave now

project89

iTrader: (1)

its all good man,i really dont see somone not knowing any better and just slaping one on.but hey im sure it will happen,but thats there fault for not reaseaching first.

most of the ppl here have the knowledge to make a solid choice if there mtor is up to the turbo kit or not,as is anyone serous about modifying there car/motor.

as far as avialability the company is going to become a sponsor on these forums, as well as few others along with there own advertising means,

nixon5

im still not gettin ya on this bung thing you weld it on the get a punch an punch through the metal wont the metal like got in the oil still. What did you do for the oil return line?

project89

iTrader: (1)

that exactly it u weld the bung on,then place the punch inside the bung,when u smack the punch with a hammer it actually pierces the oilpan sheetmetal and makes a clean hole.

the metal just stretches until it tears and the pnch slide threw,it dosent leave any metal ships in the pan,though i do suggest doing this with a full oil pan,and then drain it after and refill.

this is exactly how i did my first oilpan,my second oil pan i did on the bench and drilled the holes, one on each side for twin turbos
----------
260 cam or the mtc-5
260 or custom for stage 2
stage 3 is being testined with 2 diff grinds 268/272 and 272/272 both are over .500's lift

nixon5

ohh ok thats easy then I can do that myself.

Street Lethal

iTrader: (16)

I hear you man, and your not alone, believe me....

I'm working on something in which I'm hoping you will help us out with. I'm setting up an F-Body vs GTO day over at Englishtown sometime in September, possibly October, will your car be ready to run? Expecting a few of our Third Gen bretheren from PA to come and throw down (all in fun, the GTO guys are really cool). I'll have the details up soon, can you make it down....?

Leo_padakin

glad to see work still being done on these engines, been a long time since ive been on here.

grimmcs

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately its doubtful. One of my problems right now is that I am not working full weeks. 3.5-4 days a week is killing my paychecks. Im used to getting at least 40hrs a week if not more. But hey, anything is possible. Im just working on getting my paint/rust dealt with right now...after that its all down hill.