big john

Why not just drain oil into the valley. could drill a hole through the intake or somewhere on the china wall and use a pipe tap. If you ever want to swap it back, just use a pipe plug fitting. If I am remembering right the TypeT buik's turbo drained into the valley throught he intake.

82CAMAROBBC

iTrader: (1)

For your oil return you may be able to remove the oil dipstick tube and feed the oil to the pan for a short-term solution. Just an idea...

project89

iTrader: (1)

nieth of those ideas will work, the return spot must be lower then his turbo and the line must be atleast 1/2 in in diami9ter

chevyracingrox

popeye75 did you say your oil filter was on the passenger side? mine is on the drivers side. my starter is on the passengers side? is yours the other way around or was it a type-o?

Popeye75

oops, good catch. the oil filter is on the driver side and the starter is on the passenger side.

i have the t-block screwed in to where the oil pressure sender plugs in on my car and branches off to feed the turbo, but i'm afraid of blowing out the seals on the turbo with a return line so high up. the last 3 days i've had 5 different cops come by and harass me about this car being parked in my driveway because it 'obstructs the sidwalk' and when i moved it onto the street the same neighbor kept calling them on me because i parked it in front of her house(across the street). what a pain in the a$$.=( i want to take the car to the muffler shop today, but i need to remove the t and plug the oil pressure sender back in so i don't leak oil, but i'm afraid to even open the hood for fear of the cops showing up and messing with me! i might have to resort to towing it there, but i really hate to have to do that since it runs fine.
instead of punching a hole in the oil pan and threading it for a brass connector for the oil return i'm just going to have them weld in a fitting for the return line. it's such a headache working on this car, but not the actual car itself so much as my neighbor! lol. oh well, that's life i guess. getting 'red tagged' at 9 o'clock last night was a nice touch

Popeye75

THIS PROJECT IS NOT DEAD!!! just been taking forever....

When i bought this car it had been sitting for at least 3 years. I'm trying to get it running right before i add the turbo to the equation but i was having a lot of problems here with the neighbors and police so its been at my moms and thats why the project stalled. this week i've been really cranking to get the car done but she's devloped some problems so maybe you guys can help me figure out whats wrong?

The car is SMOKING! a LOT. and i mean a lot. when you first turn it on its not so bad, but as it runs a little longer and starts to warm up it smokes worse and is dependant on the throttle. the more you rev it, the more it smokes. a little background on the car is that it was sitting and not running for years before i got it. i gave it an oil change and a battery, put it some new gas(which is now about 1/2 year old gas) put sea-foam in the gas tank, the vacuum port and the crank case. added a new fuel filter, new spark plugs and a new set of spark plug wires. i got the car running but it ran like crap, jerking a lot, some smoking, no power, lots of fun stuff and a ton of electrical issues. took off all the sensors i could think of and cleaned them, gave it a new tps sensor and had to add an egr and some other stuff. I also added bosch 3(i think) 22lb injectors off a 4.6 from the junkyard which made it idle a lot smoother but the fit scares me a little. drove the car to my moms but it wasn't a very smooth ride:\ i didn't have the iac sensor hooked up then. got it to my moms and re-did the maf and the iac sensor and that seems to have really made it sound better but it seems like its smoking worse now(i also changed the oil to try and get that seafoam out). I'm dying to weld up the turbo but i can't possibly try this with the engine smoking like this! i've heard that it could be valve seals maybe affected by the sea foam. i have an eye on the injectors possibly being the culprit, and also possibly the fpr? i just can't believe it would be the rings going bad that quickly. i ran it with the really old oil in it before i sea-foamed it and i can't remember it smoking, so i'm pretty sure it didn't do it until i seafoamed it(which i'll never do again).

does anyone have any idea what i'm looking at and what options i have? troubleshooting ideas? i have to get it running right before i add the turbo. also, for some reason the o2 sensor is cut but i haven't re-attached it because i'm not sure which connector is for it(the wiring was a HUGE mess). any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!!!!

project89

iTrader: (1)

seafoam willmake massive amounts of smoke. how much seafoam did u put int he gas tank? and how much gas was in it when u added it.

what color is the smoke?
does it smell liek maple syrup?

Bullydawg

iTrader: (7)

I would run it for a while and see if it starts to clear up. My buddy bought a trans am 5.0 that was sitting for 5 years... it was smoking and idling weird and I had him run it for a few tanks and alot of problems have cleared up. I am not too sure about your case, but run it for a while. If it is that bad though, I would pull the covers and take a peak around.

Popeye75

i used one can of seafoam and used 1/3 in the gas, 1/3 in the crank case, 1/3 in the egr port. the car has maybe 4 gallons of gas i think. i tried just running it for what i thought was a long time to see if it would just burn off, but this doesn't look like something thats going to burn itself out. i've had to have run it at least 45 minutes to an hour total? not all at once though. maybe 20 minutes straight at the longest. i would just drive it around but this car puts out one of those james bond smoke-screens behind it! lol. i'd get pulled over in a heart beat. this car cannot be driven on the road safely. the exhaust does smell kinda weird though. i can't put my finger on it, but my wife says it smelled like lighter fluid...? crazy. i'll pull the valve covers tonight hopefully, but what am i looking for? i'm sure the seafoam or the injectors are the culprit because i put them on at the same time. i also replace the shrader valve on the fuel log at the same time as well.

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

So you put 3 22# injectors in??? With the rest stock? You need all injectors the same rating, prefferably the same as stock or very close. You could use 17# injectors without reprogramming the ecm but 22# are way too large. And make sure you get the o2 reconnected.

Popeye75

No, i put in bosch #3 injectors. I put a whole set of six on the motor. the reason for the larger injectors is to feed the turbo the extra fuel it needs.

project89

iTrader: (1)

im willing to bet the smoke is all the seafoam burning off, let the car runs for a while.last time i seafoamed something it took over an hour to get the smoke to stop

chevyracingrox

take it out to the middle of nowhere and floor it. that'll clear out the seafoam quicker.

nixon5

get a new tank of gas then drive it around for awhile at night so no one can see the smoke haha i seafoamed my car a while ago i had white smoke filling my neighborhood hahah

bl85c

iTrader: (2)

You should reprogram your ecm for 22# injectors. You need a rising rate pressure regulator too if you don't already have one. What's your plan for retuning the ecm? You're going to hit the limit of the stock maf pretty quick, it maxes out at 150g/sec (about 264 cfm).

nixon5

wait i thought he had the 2.8 he should be able to get by with #19 injectors and about 8 psi. Idk you kinda need a wideband cuz every car is prob different.

project89

iTrader: (1)

hell be fine witht he maf and the turbo hes runing, my 2.8 ran the t3/t4 upto 7-9 psi on the stock ecm and maf with 250 tpi injectors forever, it never gave an issue and afrs wer ealways oin the 11.5-12.0 range under boost

Popeye75

Well.... from what i can tell i have to replace the valve seals. not a tremendous job, but not something i'm looking forward too=( i drained the gas tank and added some new fuel, but there's still a very little bit of smoke. it might go away with time, but i won't make any promises... i have been working and working on this car and i'm just ready for the next project. is there anyone out there that wants to take over? if you're interested in picking up this project let me know and make me an offer because i'm just too broke to finish this project anymore. don't get me wrong, it's not such a bad deal, but when you have NO job and therefore NO income it's hard to keep spending. I've cleaned it up a bunch since i've gotten it. the engine compartment looks great and the interior and body are shaping up real nice(considering how it started). It seems like such a shame since i'm so close, but if you don't have the money you just don't have the money. the car already has the 22lb injectors, the turbo and blow off valve. it still needs the welding done for the exhaust and the oil return line, but that's not such a big deal. also, the interior is starting to shape up real nice, all gray and black. You can fire the car up and drive it even, as long as you don't mind some smoke from the exhaust it would be such a nice ride and i really don't want to do it half-***, but i just DON'T have the money to finish. i'll probably post it on craigslist this week, but if anyone on here wants it i'll give you first dibs because i feel like someone from this site would finish it right, so what do you say? anyone want to finish the junkyard dog?

Popeye75

<a href="http://s520.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=P1012137.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...m/P1012137.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s520.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=P1012139.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...m/P1012139.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>
didn't have the hood closed all the way

<a href="http://s520.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=P1012146.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...m/P1012146.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s520.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=P1012143.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...m/P1012143.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

<a href="http://s520.photobucket.com/albums/w...t=P1012147.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i520.photobucket.com/albums/w...m/P1012147.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket"></a>

Popeye75

hood not closed all the way

chevyracingrox

where is the car? speaking in a town/state perspective. looks like a really nice car, but most of us have third gens.

Popeye75

Oh yeah, sorry about that. i'm in albuquerque, NM. I don't really have an asking price, but pm me an offer and i'll consider all. I'm not really trying to make a buck off this car so much as recoupe what i've invested into it if i can. i'd rather someone on here got it because i feel there's a good chance they'll finish this thread. i feel pretty bad about not being able to finish because i think adding the turbo could be a great power adder with a minimal amount of work(and money) and the information could help several people. i'll put up some pics tomorrow of the interior and engine bay. If anyone has any questions feel free to pm me or ask here if you want. thanks.
-Chris

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

sorry for reviving an old-ish thread, I didn't read the full story, so I'm not sure what developed on the final outcome, but I read about having the oil send and return problem. I'm in the process of installing a remote mount turbo on my Trans Am and I am planning to use a sandwich adapter on the oil filter mount, same as if you were running an oil cooler between the block and the oil filter...

project89

iTrader: (1)

u dont need to do that, save the money and buy a pipe t to install were the oil presure sending unit is, then u can reinstall the oil p sender and run the oil feed line

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

but isn't the oil pressure sending unit right above the oil filter? I think it would be the same as using the sandwich adapter (like this one) since they probably would be would literally be like 3 inches from each other. The other benefit to using the sandwich is you're able to plumb send AND return lines...Thanks for the info guys...

project89

iTrader: (1)

on a sbc the oil presure sender should be ontop the motor behind the intake manifold, right near the dizzy,or it can be above the oil filter.

u cannot use a sandwich adpater to return the oil that i know of, if u can thats deff the way to go though

nixon5

that adapter actually looks like a good idea but I dont think it would work it looks like there would be too much restriction for the return

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

I'm pretty sure there is a return line on the adapter since its for an oil cooler which needs to flow out and in... I'd have to look into the return line. I'm going to be using an external pump to get the oil all the way to the back of the car. Should that cause a problem?

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

I think I'm gonna go with this sandwich adaptor instead since it has 2 -10AN fittings which I believe that -10AN is plenty big for a return line. I might even downsize it.

snardos

I am no expert, but I am assuming that all of the engine oil is runs through the adaptor before or after it is filtered so that it can be cooled since it is for an oil cooler. Since turbos only use gravity return, wouldn't the oil flow be too slow to return back into the system? I see issues having the tubo in series with the oil filter. Instead I think the turbo should be in parallel to the filter if that makes any sense to anyone.

project89

iTrader: (1)

the flow back into the adpater is presurized though thats why it works with an oil cooler.

so im not sure u could return the oil from a turbo there.u really need to find somone who has tried to use one or does use one to find out.

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

I stated I was going to use and external oil pump (additional) to get the oil to and from the turbo on the back of the car... The exact same settup they use on the STS remote mount turbo kits... except I don't want to pay STS $6,000... my concern for now with the external pump would be location since I don't want the electric pump overpowering the factory pump. I'm gonna have to to a bit more research to see how I'll conncet the fittings, as in do I want oil thats about to go into the oil filter, or oil that has already circulated through the engine...FYI there will be heat sinks on the oil lines to the back of the car to lower the temps of the oil...

project89

iTrader: (1)

yeah i know ur going to use a pump, but thos epumps dont pump back a constant supply of oil really

what u need to find out is the fitting on the adapter that u will use for the return, u need to see if there will be any presure at that port, if there is as long as the scavenge pump makes more presure it should work in therory.

i know ive heard of tons of ppl using those adapters for oil feeds but i have never heard of a single person being able to use it as the return point as well.

just hate to see somone screw up a turbo since that is generally the most exspensive part of the build

ur best bet would be to ask on the turboforums.com

im sure somone there has tried or is using a adapter like that and can fill u in on it if anything needs to be done so u dont take a chance at burning up a turbo or somethign else

chevyracingrox

from what I hear, the tubing is the most expensive part of a turbo build.

nixon5

I am going to use the surflo 8000 series pump just because i do not want to weld the oil pan. If that adapter works then that would be the best way to go but since your doing a rear mount you would still need a pump to pump it back in. In theory the adapter and the pump idea should work just need a good pump to push the oil back into the filter. Your best bet for a pump would be http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/oilsystems.htm Their pumps are gear driven and should push the oil through pretty well.

HCR13

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the info guys. I'll definitely look into it, and research the turbo forums....