kubinusa

The fuel pump was replaced less than two years ago in a shop, so I am not sure how good of a job the guys did, they did some other work on my car afterwards and I found they put old parts in..
I will look for the leaks again tomorrow, but as I looked before I haven't seen any.
Anyways could any of that cause my stall/run crappy rich condition ?

firebird904

When I had a similar problem with my old firebird I sprayed starter fluid in the throttle body and it started right up and i could rev it up just fine but as soon as the starter fluid was burned up and it was running from the fuel pump it would start to run like crap. Ended up being the fuel pump.

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

If the pump is leaking where I think it is, you won't see it. The leak is INSIDE the gas tank, between the top of the sending unit and the pump itself. You might want to either replace the pump again or have it replaced by a shop that actually uses new parts, because now you know it may or may not have been new when you had it "replaced".

As for the rich condition, we'll get there, but we need a constant fuel pressure between 37-47 PSI first. Also, have you tested the resistance of the coolant temp sensor?

kubinusa

I put a new coolant temp sensor few days ago. I just looked again on the injectors and they no good..seemed that as I replaced the pintle caps the replacement was some crap product and did not hold on the injectors - on of them almost fall in the engine as was pulling it out and I found that on of the injector does have broken pintle, so I guess they were leaking as well and didn't work right and caused all the troubles. Do you know where should I look for new ones? The cheaper the better, although don't want to buy total crap, seen some cheap remans on ebay, don't know if it is worth to buy them though...

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

As long as the injectors have the o-rings, it doesn't matter. Just make sure to get the pieces out of the engine . The pintle caps only protect the pintle at the end of the injector and help hold the o-ring in place. At least 4 of my 2.8 injectors were missing their caps and the engine still ran (crappy, but ran).

If you're looking for injectors, there are a couple people on here who do reconditioning and sell new ones for WAY below what stores want ($160/set opposed to $40-90 a piece). SouthBay and fuelinjectorconnection.com, eBay as an absolute last resort if you can't afford anything else. Heck, you're almost better off going to a junkyard and getting 2 sets.

kubinusa

well one of them's got the sprayer broken..

kubinusa

Didn't find anybody in here whom I could by from, maybe I am not looking in the right place, don't know

evilemokid94

iTrader: (6)

i wouldnt buy online, unless its from a store that is know from alot of people

kubinusa

Are 15 lb injectors going to be allright for my engine?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

14.7 and 15.4 lb injectors are stock. Those 24 pounders you posted in the link above will flood the engine in seconds without something like a turbocharger...

kubinusa

So 15lb flowmatched bosch injectors from southbay allright you think? See I never done this before so I don't have a clue..

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

As long as those injectors you order are NOT the Multitec II injectors or equivalent, as those won't work right and may fry internally shortly after installation due to a design and control revision (pulse width modulated vs peak and hold or something like that).

kubinusa

these are bosch II generation 4 spray injectors, are those worth to get?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Those will work. At least, that's what others say. I'm still sticking with my Multitecs (can't afford not to right now and I have 2 sets, so...).

kubinusa

That's what they said, they didn't even want to buy my old ones, because they're multitecs, they said they don't want to sell that product to people.. . Well thanks anyways for help, I hope this is going to make my car running finally

kubinusa

After I installed the new injectors the fuel pressure dropped from 43 to 35 PSI and I again can't get the engine started..

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I saw a video on youtube or something not too long ago where someone was flow testing a set of brand new injectors for a Beemer and at least one of them had a leak. Pull the rail out to where you can see it and pressurize the fuel system to check for a leaking injector. Also make sure all of the o-rings on the rail ends of the injectors haven't been cut upon installation and that the fuel pressure regulator screws are tight.

kubinusa

I am not sure if I will be able to pull the fuel rail that far with the cold start valve hooked up..the injectors are a shorter than the original ones but they don't seem to leak from the rail, the guy from southbay said people put them in camaros before and they worked..

I was wondering about the fuel pressure decrease after replacing the injectors..can get her started but it's the same as before, really poor and stalls after a bit

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

You shouldn't worry about the CSI... the fuel feed tube does bend. I've bent mine far enough to squeak the lower plenum out from under the rail before.

You're probably better off undoing the CSI tube and removing the CSI from the intake as well to check that for a leak. I know mine opens for 8 seconds after I turn the key on. Yours could be stuck open and flooding the engine.

kubinusa

Checked the injectors and they seem to be allright, no leaking, just one of them got the pintle cap sucked in the intake, was able to get it out but I don't like that..

About checking the CSI, the connector does have kind of short wire to mess around with, but did you mean to check for how long it opens with the gas line unhooked ?

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I meant to keep the CSI attached to the fuel rail (reattach it after removing both the rail and the CSI) and prime the system to check for a dripping injector. The CSI and injectors probably won't be able to be connected (especially the CSI) electrically, so this is a test to see if they hold pressure when not being pulsed by the ECM or the starting system (CSI runs off of the starter solenoid's starting circuit except for the switch in the intake which can and will hold it open for up to 8 seconds until the engine is above 90*C).

kubinusa

Injectors and CSI both checked, all good, no leak, still rich as hell, runs really poor and stalls quickly, also a lot of white smoke from exhaust. What about oxygen sensor or catalytic converter? even thoug I don't have any codes and changed CC last year..
I also worry about the fuel pressure drop after installing the new injectors..still in the limit but 8 PSI less than before. Thinking about having it towed to the dealer for diagnostic

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Have you checked out the MAF sensor in any way? Check it. Then worry about the oxygen sensor. The O2S only comes into play when the engine is warmed up and the exhaust is above 600*F.

Are you sure you bought the right size fuel injectors? Did you recheck the fuel system for leaks as I indicated before, clamping off the fuel hoses to find where the pressure is being lost?

Is the connection at the coolant temp sensor good and tight? Is the sensor good?

kubinusa

I installed new reman MAF as well as new coolant temp sensor, the connection at coolant TS is well tight.

The fuel injectors were originally for Ford, I think, 15lbs, about 1/4 inch shorter than the original, but I was told by the guys ab Southbay it should work and worked before, well, they don't leak in neither connection so I guess they fine.

With the fuel pressure, the think is that now it jumps just to about 35 PSI as before it was about 43 PSI. When I clamp the supply (the thicker hose, just for sure) after pressurizing system it goes a bit up to about 38 PSI and when I unclamped after about 5 min or less it fell down to about 20 PSI right away. Otherwise without clamping the 35 PSI goes down about 2-3PSI in 5 min.

kubinusa

Do they loan anywhere diagnostic scanner or something I could find out what is going on with it ? I know they loan the OBD scanners at autozone but they work just for cars 93 and newer if I remeber right. Or is the only way to know for sure going to chevrolet ?

kubinusa

So I had my car towed to Chevrolet and the manager told me my car is too old for them to work on, even though I called them twice and asked if they would do it and they said it's ok to bring it in. F them, just wasted money on the tow truck..

anyways I found out that the cold start valve was leaking on the rail connection so I put in new o ring and that fixed that. Now the engine sounds much better, but it backfires and stalls when I depress the accel pedal. also shoots rust out of the exhaust but I guess that's the backfiring and that it was sitting for a while..

Any ideas what to check? Thanks

kubinusa

A retired mechanic sugested to check the compression after he seen it so I did and it checked from 105 to 115 psi, so within limits.

Ideas what might be the problems would be appreciated, otherwise I think it's time to get it in a shop.

enswrob

time to pull the pump/ sending unit out. or take it to a shop. (non dealership)
i had a simmilar problem with my fuel pressure. maverick H1L was working with me on it. turns out it the pulsator was bad. i talked to the lead shop mech. known him for years. he just replaced the pulsator with a fuel hose and clamped it in place. perfect starts ever since. now to figure out why its running rich....

kubinusa

It does'nt run that rich, if it even is, after I fixed the leaking cold start valve. The thing now is the backfire, hard to start and stall condition..it looks like if some plug wires were crossed but they are all right, or maybe bad timing, even though it was allright before and I didn't mess with anything to make it change. The fuel pressure is steady now at 35 psi, after I put in the new injectors..

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

Check your valve adjustments and head gaskets. My dead/dying 2.8 was putting out over 140 PSI compression with bad con rod bearings... If the valves are out of adjustment and too tight, 1. you'll have trouble starting and the engine will backfire and hesitate due to blowby into the intake because of the valves hanging open, and 2. you'll wipe the cam if you keep running like that.

BTW, factory spec for fuel pressure is 37-47 PSI...

kubinusa

Changed the distributor and it is running again !!

Thanks for the help, as I bet there was not only one problem..

Maverick H1L

iTrader: (8)

I'd still find out what's with the low compression if I were you...

kubinusa

the guy said he checked the compression as well and that it was around 175 psi (which sounds a bit high to me, but...), I guess the compression testers they loan at autozone might not work that great