mAjInRS

to make a long story short my rearend is going out, the guy at the tranny shop i talk to says for me to get one at a junk yard(best deal) so since i have to go get one i want to get one with posi and maybe some 3.73's?? is that a good combo for the 3.1?? i dont really know so dont get that wierd look on your face. Also my driveshaft i think is coming out, it was knocking on the body really bad on the way home from work, does anybody know whats up with that?? i really need some help, i'm about to spend some major ca$h

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91 Blue RS with ASCD SS hood w/hood pins, Flowmaster 80 series, K&N, Bosch Platinum wires and plugs, rebuilt transmission with shift kit.

Soon to be added:
Z28 spoiler.
New paint.(black with orange stripes)
A 3.4L V6.(WOOHOO!!)

Official Kills:
80something Monte Carlo SS
New Civic
Ford Splash(Souped up somehow, he was chirpin every shift)
Late 90's Crustang
Early 90's Crustang(at the strip)
Older Eclipse(at the strip)
CRX(at the strip)

IROC5.7TPI

the knocking is more than likely your trans mount or torque arm mount at the trans.

As far as the rear-end goes...

I'd get a 3.27 9 bolt with disc brakes. They are cheap and not too hard to find.

Then again, you could always swap in a V8



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Mike L.

The Weapon of Choice:
1987 IROC Z 5.7 TPI A4 3.27 Borg-Warner four wheel disc
Mods: 2300-2500 Stall Converter, Shift Kit(GM parts), TPI Specialties Stage 3 PROM, Modified Airbox w/ K&N's, homemade cold air, Relocated MAT sensor, Gutted MAF, 160* thermostat, MSD 6A, Accel 8mm Wires, bypassed TB coolant, Flowmaster 3 chamber single 3" in/out muffler, 3" MAC mandrel intermediate, custom dual !cat Y-pipe. airfoil, ported plenum. !smog, few others I forgot...???

**BOYCOTT LAPEER DRAGWAY**

mAjInRS

i know its not the tranny mount cause i just had that replaced a month ago and i crawled up under there and inspected it

1991tealRSt-topGuy

thats what i was gonna do, but the cost of the swap proved too great......which led me find out that swapping to a 3.4 and working it can get me running 14's

it'll be alot of work, but i'll be able to do it all myself



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Slayer of the following:
1996 Riced-out Honda Civic (all show and no go!!!!!!)
2000 saturn
198? Ford Crown Vic, (no i don't know why he bothered)
1990 Buick LeSabre 3.8
1986 Camaro 2.8
Newer Ford Explorer
Food that makes me sick: RICE
1991 Camaro RS 3.1 V6 5-speed
1991 Z28 Rims with Firestone Firehawks
dual snorkel intake w/ slashed boxes, 2 K&N's, 180* t-stat
my motto: I CAN'T DRIVE 55

TomP

The knocking could also be the driveshaft hitting the intermediate pipe, or, loose rear suspension parts, or a busted shock (or upper shock mount).

I would avoid the 9-bolt 3.27 axle. They're not a popular axle to the aftermarket; meaning, it's hard to find important things like gears for 'em! The only 3.73/posi axle I know of was the 3.73/posi/disc axles, under '83-'85 Trans Am's and Z28's. There was a 3.73/open/drum axle, found under the '84 Camaro H.O and the manual-transmission-equipped 2.5l 4-cyl F-bodies.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l)

mAjInRS

so i should go ahead with the 3.73's?? the guy at the shop said he'd do the swap for between $100-$200(depends on how long it takes). So when i go to the yards do i have to ask for the rearend out of a T/A or Z28 and not an RS?? As for the driveshaft thing i got up under the car and looked it and it is the driveshaft itself hitting the undercarriage of the car, i saw the scrape marks from it, its RIGHT where the tranny connects to the drive shaft, the part where the two ends connect are hitting the body. And another thing i noticed is that the little nub that comes out of the tranny and connects to the shaft looks like it came out a little cause the whole shaft is dirty from road grim and stuff right but there's about 3-4inches that are completly clean and silver, is that supposed to be like that??? (sorry for the story)

87RS402

Go with the 3.73's. You'll be alot happier. Do the swap yourself, it's not hard. If you can spin a wrench and cuss you can do a rearend swap. If you we're closer I'd offer to help you do it for a 6-pack (12 pack if I busted a knuckle)

(This message has been brought to you by some lame V-8 guy.)

BitchinRS

Replace the Ujoints a soon as posible. It sounds like they might be worn. If the front one goes out on you you will be in for one hell of ride. Just imagine the front of the drive shaft droping and diging into the pavment. Not a prety image!!!!

Project: 85 2.8 bird

I've actually seen a drive shaft pop out of a truck when I was driving in Dallas. Pretty interesting, caps came of the u-joints, needle beaarings flying out, drive shaft still spinning, and doing 360s in the middle of the road. Best part was it all seemed to be in slow motion.

worst part was i got to run over said drive shaft.

mAjInRS

sounds like a plan, i'm gonna call some yards today to see if i can find one, since i never had to locate one of these what do i tell the guy i'm looking for when i call?? I dont want to tell him "rearend" and him think i'm lookin for the actual rear end bumber of the car, and how do i find out if its posi and what gears it has? just in case the guy doesnt know.

mAjInRS

score!! kinda....i have a choice between two rearends i found, one is out of a 91' Z28 and it has posi with disc brakes, the other is just a regular set up probably like the one i have with drums, the catch is the one from the Z28 will cost me $450!!!!! the other one will only cost $75, gee thats a hard one.....one guy at one of the yards that didnt have a posi one said those are hella expensive, i didnt believe him till i found that Z28 one, guess i'll have to go with the $75 one. thnx for all yall's help.

Will the u-joints from Jeg's(part# 620-23011) be good for my car, i need to know before i buy em they are like $35.



[This message has been edited by mAjInRS (edited August 23, 2001).]

KED85

BEFORE YOU TAKE IT FROM THE CAR, go see the car!
Actually go see both!
One may be a BETTER investment, depending on age,usage, etc.
BUT SEE IT BEFORE IT'S REMOVED!
Then bargin!!
Besides, the drum one, lots of your old parts can swap. The disc posi, is a complete interchange & upgrade. Lots of "fine tuning effort!!"
Go get u-joint local, save the shipping money if ya can. There's got a good shop in your area? The cost should be the same, I'd think!
TRY to do this yourself (but you know your limits-Good!), it can be done, plus the $$ saved equals all the good stuff you interchange upgrade to.
How do you know your rear gears are going?
I have 211,500 miles on the rear of my S-10 Blazer, it still rolls!
Invested in another opinion yet?
Just a question.

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Chat Soon,
KED85
Karl
1985 Firebird 2.8 to 3.4 swap project for Smog Happy LA, CA