caffeine

iTrader: (2)

Here are some pics of my setup



The alt mount is more-or-less just two bolts welded together to make a 'stud', which is then braced against two water pump bolts. The other bolt hole mounts to a manual adjuster against the power steering pump.

Here is a setup I just made for a friend that uses a turnbuckle for adjustment

I have yet to brace the 'stud' against the water pump but you can clearly see here how it's adjusted.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I see you notched the pully. How did that work out for you? Work well?

Thanks for the pics they help alot!

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

I have yet to test the crank pulley but I'm optimistic . I copied the notches from my Firebird which is basically a FWD BCC trigger wheel that's had the centre cut out and had the ring welded to the back of an underdrive pulley.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Curious but where did you put a tentioner? Basically anywhere it could work? And then just measure the belt length and get on of that size at autozone?

project89

iTrader: (1)

his alt is the tensioner/adjuster

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

Yeah, like project89 said the alt is the tensioner. I use a slotted piece of steel on mine to one of the studs behind the PS pump pulley and the setup I just made on the other engine uses a turnbuckle ($5 from parts store). I'm gonna see if there's room to use a turnbuckle on mine this year because it would make tensioning much easier.

project89

iTrader: (1)

u can always get fancy and use one of these
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Alternator-Adjuster-Bracket-Datsun-240Z-260Z-280Z-510-/170624619147?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item27ba05128b&vxp=mtr
they make them for all different kids of cars ive got the same kind of adjuster on my 353's alternator

Gumby

Such a simple great idea, I need that on my Buick, even with a dual Vbelt set up for the alt, I can't keep em tight enough. I get a few months and its squealing belts on take off at night with everything on. Not the kind of head turing you want.................

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

You know, I've seen these for all kinds of cars, and seem to be very popular for the Datsun crowd, but have NEVER needed one of these and frankly will not be any sort of improvement over a conventional slotted tensioner.

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

I just find slotted tensioners annoying and also I find it difficult to get proper tension on my belt with the current one.

Gumby

so wrong guy, a quick twist and you have more tension, when I need to adjust my Buick, takes 2 wrenches, to losen 2 bolts, then a giant bar to pry, try and hold tension with one had and get the bolts tight enough that it doesn't slack off.

stock GM was sucks with out two people, turns buckles, genius........

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Yea I like the turnbuckle idea and I will try it out. It makes sence and should work well.

I understand how to get it all aligned properly and leave me space for the piping also. I need to fab up some things a bit but at least now I see the whole picture and how it will work.

Wont be able to work on the car for a week or 2 but tinkered with it today so that I could see where the alt would eventually be and so that I could start to fit the drivers header together. Went well and once its collected it will 90 down and 90 over to the merge pipe.

Also got the heads tq ed down today. They look quite nice i think.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

It will make zero difference in functionality. I have no problems adjusting my alternator, when I need to, which has only ever been when I've actually removed it for other reasons (or replaced a belt that broke). I also have zero issues holding tension on the alternator, when adjusting. If you do, then you're making it much harder than it needs to be.

If you're constantly needing to adjust the tension on your belt, then it wasn't set correctly in the first place.

If you use a turn buckle you need to use a very good quality one, and one that will support the type of loads that will be applied, most turn buckles are designed to pull the load, not push it. I know of a bunch of Datsun guys that tried to cheap out on the turnbuckle and had issues with them bending or breaking.

DeathStarr89

iTrader: (1)

you can buy good turnbuckle parts from McMaster-Carr. That's what I made my adjuster for the alternator out of on the 3500. Worked great.


you need to measure for the center bar, then pick up the RH and LH threaded ends... then jamb nuts.

Gumby

Summit has some nice kits with em.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Finally got the pushrods. Tried out a pair and they will fit just fine.

I plan to seal up the top end tonight..intakes, valve covers..exc.

Rough few days as my girlfriend/fiancee is in the hospital for diabetic DKA. So its been a stressful few days. I have to wait till tomorrow morning to go back and hopefully get her. The visitation there is tight. But I think that since I cant go see her anymore today because of the visitation hrs, that working on the car is always a good way to relax and not stress about anything.

willexoIX

Hope all works out well for you and your girlfriend. Looks like youll probably have yours running while I'm still getting the turbo on, lol. When you enjoy your car, its always a good way to reduce stress.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Thanks! Shes doing much better and is back at home.

Worked on the car a few hrs and finished the drivers side header. Also moved the alt to a different position and actually this way will work out much better for the belt routing. Still have to make 2 brakets up but it will work fine.

Pushrods on and engine sealed up else then the upper intake. Let the fun begin as there is a crap load of stuff to assemble now.

Still need to finish up a 45 down and 45 over to a merge pipe for the exhaust and installing the new wastegate. Dont laugh at my silicon 90* bend on the exhaust. The take off is no biggie. I just wanted to use it as a wrap around to mark the piping.

The DIS mounting is the next step after the exhaust is finished up. Hopefully next weekend.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Intercooler is mounted at lest on the top, the bottom needs to wait for me to cut some more brackets. Got some more intercooler piping finished up and the BOV welded and ready to rock. On the one pic under the car the piping will sit up about 1 inch higher because its literly just staying where it is from the clamps as the BOV/pipe isnt attatched on that pipe. My saw zaw died so i need to get some blades for the portaband.


Still need a 2.8L fbody radiator so the intake port is on the passenger side...... any help? No yards arround here have them.

Project89, dave, this bov better stand up for its name....RFL

project89

iTrader: (1)

i promise u it is really fing loud , u will need to cut the spring in it though , how i cut them is get the car running and idling then i plug the bov intot he vacum line and push on it with my finger , u trim the spring until u can lightly push on it and it moves

iirc i had to cut a good 1/3rd of the spring off but cut it one coil at a time , if u cut to much off it will hang open at idle


btw u got nominated for car of the month again so look around for some really good pics of ur car

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok dave thanks on the tips. Once I get it up and running ill trim it up. Cotm....cool. I got some nice pics from a car show last year.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Updates: Got some more parts and got to power up the ecm and check sensors and such.

Got a throttle cable that is plenty long, its hooked up and works great. Also got a radiator that is basically brand new that has the ports where I need them for 40 bucks.

So the coolent to the rad and back are connected and ready to roll. Got the intercooler hard mounted and the trans cooler mounted just need to connect to trans lines.

I plan to tap a hole near the t stat housing and then use a 3/8 bushing for the guage coolent temp sensor. But all the other sensors are wired in and work correctly. The only sensor that was acting a tad goofy was the TPS voltage/position. The minimum was fine but there was a time when I went WOT and it only read 52% even though the blade was open all the way so that is something I need to check.

I primed the fuel pump multiple times and no leaks and the pressure was in check! Thats always a good thing.

Im praying that the TV cable reaches the throttle body. Its going to be close I know that but ill find out soon.

I have to say im getting anxious. All I need to do is notch my reluc wheel, finish some welding on the piping(easy), connect the vac lines, conect the trans lines and install the trans stuff, and finish up the braket for the alt. And of course clean up alot and make it neat. I finally have a short list instead of pages and pages of stuff to do.

Also from what az told me R42lts are discontinued spark plugs so I need to cross ref them to ngk again and make sure I am getting the right ones. And make sure that az knew what they were talking about.... because sometimes they dont.

willexoIX

Good to see its getting there Mark. I just picked up r42ts plugs at advance auto, if they are the same thread which im pretty sure they are.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I always ran r42t in the past. But the r42lts have a different reach the the r42ts. Actually i can find them at advanced auto and they are in stock so I guess Ill be making a trip there this week.

Gumby

to bad ya didn't check with heads off, ya could of indexed your plugs.

willexoIX

Hey gumby, you can index plugs with the heads on as long as you know the position of the valves in the head, just mark the ceramic on the plugs with a sharpie where the gap is

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

ok thanks guys. Never even thought of doing that while it was all apart.


Here is some updates.

I got the old 1 wire coolent sensor into the lower manifold next to the t stat housing. I opted to keep the one wire and the 3 wire separate just because I already extended the wire for this and needed to plug this hole anyways. Went well.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok the reluctor wheel. Well I decided to try.... the pulley set up first. If it doent work out well then I will have to go get a real reluctor made up but to be honest the budget is tight at the moment and I at least wanted to try this route.

I just used a template on another thread resized it fo 6.45 inches, made sure the notches were 60* off set and then made the sync notch 10* off the notch of 0*. I made the sync notch 10* after TDC of cylinder #1. I hope that is correct but from what I read it is.

I still need to make the CPS mount better so that it can be adjusted for base timing or if I need to move it for some other reason but I feel that I have a good idea and will make that work well. I also know I need to get this CPS about a playing card away from the pulley so that should be fun...

One thing I noticed on my pulley was that there was a cut in it. Almost like a saw zaw cut. I'm not sure if I did that in the past or what but I made sure to tac a few welds on it and smooth it down so that from the top as the sensor will see it, you would never know it was there.

The notches are 1/4" wide and 1/4" deep. Square as I could get them and they are within 1 degree of eachother. I took my time and did my best to notch it correctly. Matabos work wonders..

One question is when I do set the sensor to the notches for a first start up, do I literly put it so the magnet on the CPS is directly in the middle of the notch? Or line it up one side or another? Thanks for any info.

Gumby

Its only something you do when tenths of a sec count,

other wise it makes no difference on the road that you can really tell.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Place the very center of the sensor on the trailing edge of the slot. That is when the ICM sees the reference pulse.

RBob.

project89

iTrader: (1)

nice job on the notches

34blazer

X2 yeah Mark you're becoming a good craftsman

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok thanks. This would be the trailing edge of the 0 degree notch for 1/4cylinders, not the sync notch correct?

If I can manage to toss the trans in, mount the alt and get a new belt, I may try to fire the engine tomorrow.

I still need to work the tv cable and probly buy a new one, from what I remember it will not hurt the trans if I run the car in park with the tv cable not hooked to the tb right?

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Set the damper TDC line to 10* BTDC. Then align the sensor to the trailing edge of the 1/4 notch. That should provide the 10* BTDC base timing.

Correct, just don't put the trans into gear and try to move the vehicle. In gear is OK, but don't touch the throttle. Of course this is dependent upon whether the safety check ball is there or not.

If it is you can drive the car without the TV cable connected. It will shift late (high RPM) and hard as the line pressure will always be at maximum.

RBob.

project89

iTrader: (1)

rbob i think u have that backwards , without the tv cable connected the trans will be at minimal presure and shift way early/soft

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok rob thanks for the tips. I thought that's how it would work but wanted another opinion as I second guess myself a lot.

One other question that you and sixshooter may be able to help me with. Now I know there are a few ways to make this dis fire with $59 but what is the easiest way to make it work in the bin?

Max spark advance?

Reference angle?

Maximum spark retard?

First are these the only 3 scallars that I will need to change in $59? Also I thought there would be a minimum spark but I do not see one.

Next would the reference be 60?? The reference is always BTDC right? So it uses that reference as a maximum advance also? Sorry but Im a tad confused there.

So if I dial the sensor to the trailing notch for 1/4 cylinder TDC for what ever I want the base timing (lets say 10*) how am I not subtracting that out of the reference angle? Is this just what the ICM will use to start the car then let the bypass mode disable when seeing a 5vt from the ecm? and then let the ecm take control?

Would my maximum spark advance be 60 also? Or much much less such as -10 and having my max retard being -70.

Thanks guys and thanks for helping me learn this stuff, its a tad confusing at times.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

No biggie. I wasent planning to drive the car around. Just let it idle on stands and see if the DIS is working correctly, that's if I get it to start...

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Starting somewhere along the years of building the 700R4s, GM placed a large check ball in the TV system under the pan. With that in place it will max the line pressure if the TV cable isn't moving to lift the check ball. At times a rebuilder will leave it out.

If it isn't there, then the trans smokes quickly when driven without the TV cable operating.

RBob.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Change these three:

Max spark advance: 0*

Reference angle: 70*

Maximum spark retard: -60*

Note that to get the proper -60*, the XDF entry has to have the proper math. It is not the same as the math (equation) for a positive value.

RBob.

project89

iTrader: (1)

ill hjave to check that out the 700r4 i pulled out of my iroc has a sticking tv valve , thing was stuck at half travel so it always shifted at 3,500 rpms and really hard at light throttle , figured id fix that and stick the trans on the shelf as a backup .ill have to take a look and see if it has that checkball in it

caffeine

iTrader: (2)

Regarding the R42LTS plugs they're compatible with the 3800sc engine and a few others so I have a hard time believing they're discontinued. IIRC they were the factory plug for the TTA.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

I thought the same caffeine. For some reaon az up here just does not carry them but I did pick some up at advanced auto parts. 2.39 each. Same as I was paying for r42ts.

project89

iTrader: (1)

my truck even runs the r43ts theres way to many diffent engines that use thos eplugs for them to discontinue them. if they really are discontinued though i will have to buy out whatever stock the local parts stores has , as that is my favorite plug in a turbo 2.8/3.1/3.4

willexoIX

Guess it all depends what area your in, cause the advance by me has plenty r42s. Though the guy at the counter tried to give me 5 42s and 1 43 :facepalm:

Hey looks like you, Mark and me might be starting our cars right around the same time, lol

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Az had piles of r42ts just not r42lts....lol

I got 12 r42lts now though just in case. I always like to have a spare set on hand.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

How did you route the belt?? I would seem like it would all go clockwise and out Water pump needs to be counter clockwise at least for my 3.1L. Unless I cam off the crank and literly went under the water pump but that isn't much contact area. Im getting ready to measure for a belt.

Thanks for any tips!

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok heres where im at as I tried to start up the car today.

No fuel or spark!!


For the ignition module. I have:

The 2 wire connector +12vdc on a pink on and ground on the black. With the key on. This ground is shared with the cars/engine ground at least on a meter.

The CPS sensor seems to be recognizing a signal and producing Ac current. From .3ish volts to a bit over 1 vts

My 6 wire connector I have the red and black (f) ground also but this ground is not with the engine ground. Ecm ground I would guess.
White is the ecm control
tan and black is the 5 vt reference
Purple is fuel control
Tan is the 5vts above 400 rpm

Any help fells as it seems like my ignition module is either bad (but worked on my impala) Or i killed it from wiring it wrong??

Running code 59. All i changed was the ref spark, the max advance and max retard. Set the base to 10* ish base timing.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Also fuel pressure is correct at the rail.

Six_Shooter

iTrader: (2)

What do you mean by "purple, fuel control" in reference to the ignition control module?

Solve your no spark issue, because that will likely solve your lack of fuel issue. The ignition system will produce spark without an ECM even attached.

You can test for spark by tapping the CPS against a metal surface, such as the edge of the trigger wheel. It's sometimes difficult to get the spark started because the ICM expects a pattern to know where in the firing order the engine is.

Check over the power and ground to the ICM. Disconnect the bypass wire and check for base timing, just like with a dizzy. Check the gap between the CPS and trigger wheel is not too wide or too close.

The red and black wire should be connected to tge ECM and no other point. This is a reference for the ECM.

fasteddi

iTrader: (2)

Ok six thanks for the tips. I will troubleshoot tommorow more.

I will recheck the power and that I have the cps dialed in right.

Im still learning. Thanks for helping me though this