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Lightened flywheel 3.1/3.4L?

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Old 07-21-2014, 12:16 PM
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Car: 1973 Datsun 240Z/ 1985 S-15 Jimmy
Engine: Turbo LX9/To be decided
Transmission: 5-speed/T-5
Axle/Gears: R200 3.90/7.5" 3.73
Lightened flywheel 3.1/3.4L?

I'm at a point in my build I need to find a different flywheel than I currently have to make mating the non-GM trans work.

From some information I have found it seems that the thicker 2.8/3.1/3.4 flywheel will work, but would like to find a lighter version.

So far I have had no luck finding anything but a stock replacement flywheel.

Is there anything out there, that I'm just simply not finding?
Old 07-21-2014, 12:58 PM
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Re: Lightened flywheel 3.1/3.4L?

A thought just passed through my head. And, I probably should have just let it pass thru and keep on going. But, since the thicker fly wheel works best, would drilling some holes/slots (like a performance brake disk) work? Done right, would that maintain the strength of the fly wheel, but make it lighter?

Of course, I could really go off the chain & suggest you make a machinist a very good friend. Then get a big chunk of titanium and give it to your BFF machinist to fabricate a new super light fly wheel.
Old 07-21-2014, 01:18 PM
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Re: Lightened flywheel 3.1/3.4L?

You could probably get in contact with places like Spec or Exedy, send them in a regular flywheel, and tell them you want one to the same specifications out of chromoly or aluminum. I'll delve into the dark places of the internet looking, though.
Old 07-21-2014, 05:18 PM
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Axle/Gears: R200 3.90/7.5" 3.73
Re: Lightened flywheel 3.1/3.4L?

Yes, I've thought about having a stock flywheel lightened, but was hoping there'd be an off the shelf option.

Follow-up/related question. Does anyone have a very accurate measurement of the flywheel thickness from crank flange to clutch friction surface?

Right now I just have an approximate thickness of 42mm going off a picture I found online where there was a measuring tape held up to the side of the flywheel, but only measures the thickness from the front of the ring gear to the friction surface. I'm adding 6mm that I have measured on the 2.2 S10 flywheel that have between ring gear an crank flange.
Old 07-22-2014, 01:47 AM
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Re: Lightened flywheel 3.1/3.4L?

If you remember, I used the FWD fidanza flywheel on my 3.4, mated to the T5. Had to move the starter inboard by modifying the starter nose cone. Not sure if that's a direction you're willing to go but, HTH.
Old 07-22-2014, 10:16 AM
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Re: Lightened flywheel 3.1/3.4L?

From what I can tell the Fidenza flywheel is the same as a FWD/2.2 S10 flywheel, that is the FWD diameter (which is good), but is very thin, about 20mm (which is bad). I have a 2.2 S10 flywheel in my possession and it's just not going to work well. It would require stacking it on top of a flex plate (for starter engagement) with a spacer that adds another 13mm to the position of the flywheel. I'd rather not use a spacer in this fashion. I'm not comfortable with that much weight that far out from the crank, using a spacer.

I need the extra thickness of the (later) F-body flywheel to set the clutch depth correctly and refrain from modifying the input shaft of the transmission I will be using.

IF the F-body flywheel thickness I have is correct, it will be a perfect thickness to set the clutch depth correctly, using the adapter plate between the engine and trans.
Old 07-23-2014, 11:02 PM
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Re: Lightened flywheel 3.1/3.4L?

To update this, I got the 3.4 flywheel today.

I measured 44mm thickness from crank flange to clutch friction surface, 2mm thicker than my guestimate.

It actually feels pretty light, much lighter than I had expected, so I don't think I'll worry about a lighter version for the time being.

The rest of this post is really non-relevant, but thought some might be interested in a non-common engine and trans mating.

The thickness is good, I had the adapter plate on the back of the engine, and lifted a bellhousing (and front half of trans casing) up to place over the flywheel, and no go. The RWD (longitudinal) flywheel diameter is too large to fit inside the bellhousing of the trans I planned to use (a FS5W71B), which is an original fit to the car. *d'oh*

So I could have made a custom bellhousing for this trans, which I was all for doing earlier in the week, but now it just doesn't seem worth it, especially since there is question on whether this trans will actually hold up to the power that I plan to make from the get go. It would definitely fail in the long term.

Solution?

Go to the trans I had planned to use in the end, with my "big build", that will be making much more power, it's just a ways off. I've had the trans for a few years now, just sitting, and I almost sold it a while ago, really glad I didn't now. The flywheel fits inside the bellhousing, the input shaft is the same as the trans I was planning on using, so I can us my existing clutch. I just need to figure out what to do about the shifter, I don't have one, and it's in a non-ideal location, even if I had one, and make a custom driveshaft.

The trans of choice? FS5R30A. For those not into Nissans, that's a trans that was used starting in the late '80s and went up to at least early '00s. My particular trans is out of a '92 300ZX TT and is said to be able to take 700+ HP stock.

I can use just a 5/16" thick adapter plate between the engine and trans, and the clutch depth will be close to correct. This should also allow the input shaft to have just enough engagement of the pilot bushing to be supported well.

I hope to have the engine and trans mated by tomorrow afternoon. Then I have to decide if I will pull the car apart on Friday and at least make the mounts, or just keep going and finish the swap.

Last edited by Six_Shooter; 07-23-2014 at 11:21 PM.
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