joeabate19

Okay so three days ago i notice my car was getting hot as i was driving home, i usually check my gauges about every five minutes when driving. I got home and it was about 250, i had forget to plug the fan in the day before when i worked on it.

The next day is when i realize it starts to overheat, because at first it would die in gear. so i popped the hood and my oil cap had popped off. i put it on and now the overheating starts.

Now it still will look like it will be okay (around 150) for 2-3 minutes then will just start visibly climbing in temperature to 250 in the next 2-3 minutes.

i fixed the radiator drain plug because when i turned the car on it just started pouring out of it.
i checked/boiled the thermostat and that works
i pulled the radiator out and inspected it for leaks
i checked the upper radiator hose and it seems like its pushing water into the engine

I am thinking maybe the water pump. but i do not really hear noises when its on and im not sure if its even from the water pump its just a little gurgling when i let of the throttle.
I was also thinking about a blown head gasket but it seems to idle fine, and there is no loss of power on revs, and there is no smoke in either the gaskets or the exhaust.

I am really stuck on this one guys, thanks in advance.

RubberDucky

iTrader: (4)

How's your rad cap look?

joeabate19

It looks fine, and seems to go on tight.
I tried flushing the system, and was going to do it again after writing the post but I went out there and the water from the radiator is gone, nothing in there. ( I turned the car off half an hour ago I don't think it evaporated that quickly. I see no water on the ground though, and the radiator was full when I came inside

joeabate19

If I run the car and it overheats, but then drain the radiator at the drain plug, it should be hot correct? And if not it would be the water pump because it's not circulating.

RBob

iTrader: (1)

Best guess on that is that the thermostat is bad, stuck shut.

As for the radiator being empty, check the heater control valve. They like to crack. It is located under the hood on the passenger side. IIRC, has three coolant hoses going to it along with a vacuum line.

RBob.

Bob88GTA

iTrader: (2)

Oops,

joeabate19

okay so overheating is fixed, but now no power. it was the broken drain plug/thermostat.

now i went for the test drive and it has no power. it will rev up and sounds fine but it doesnt seem to transfer into, momemntum?

i am thinking vacuum leak but i have no idea where to look,

i removed the:

radiator
intake plenum
intake
thermostat
i did disconnect and reconnect the battery after hooking everything back up

also there is a crushed/ collapsed metal ac line at the bend near the radiator (i dont know if it was me or before i worked on it, the ac never worked, i dont think this would cause it would it?

Stewie

To check for vacuum leaks: Start by checking the connections of all your vacuum hoses. Old lines often crack at the or near the connections. Then visually inspect the full length of each vacuum hose while turning over with your fingers to check for cracks. If your fingers turn black from touching a vacuum line, it needs to be replaced. An additional way to check for vacuum leaks is to spray carb cleaner around the vacuum hoses to see if engine idle changes.

camaroyoungster

Another reason It might be getting hot quick was if the timing was way retarded. I know you solved the coolant problem but when my timing was off the engine had no power,
wouldn't go over 2500 rpm and by the time i drove it back down the street the exhaust manifolds were glowing. I would definitely make sure to check the base timing and set it to 10 or so degrees.

antares57

iTrader: (8)

Pic of the collapsed/crushed ac line...could it be your EGR to plenum hose?

OrangeBird

iTrader: (1)

He said it was at the bend near the radiator , so I don't think it's his EGR .

joeabate19

Thanks guys my buddy is coming up Sunday to let me use his timing light, and I will have a progress post that night hopefully