89BlackBirdKid

I dunno who else knows how to but I know KED does. But hwo hard is it to pull the distrib and rebuild it. do I have to reset the timing when I put it back in. Thats one think I havent learned yet. please enlighten me because I would like to rebuild it and then put an msd coil on it.
Thanx

KED85

I'll describe how to rebuild.
I'll let others do the timing for you.
BUT first,
let's check chain stretch.
SIMPLE.
Get a rachet & a 17mm socket on it. Place socket on crank snout.
Rremove teh distributor cap.
LOOK AT ROTOR AS YOU TWIST ENGINE BY RATCHET, SLOWLY!!
IF it takes about an INCH of CRANK MOVEMENT to move rotor, you need a new timing chain.
How many miles?
800-831-0884 Northern Auto Parts
Chain gaskets water pump, $50-ish delivered!
ONTO DISTB.
Place engine at 10* on the timing mark.
Undo bolt in back to remove distributor.
Undo wire harness.
At base of distb, above gear, you'll notice a pin. Take a metal punch to push out pin.
NOW slide apart the distributor.
Take a rag and brake cleaner, clean shaft.
Spray cleaner down tube, clean out, well.
Take 200 sandpaper, spray brake cleaner on it, clean shaft real good!.
Replace circle coil on top
Look at spinning parts. Make clearences tight, by eye. Bend by finger the contacts, it's easy, be gentle.
Get axle grease, slop it on shaft, reinsert into the distb housing, check for easy spin and slipping up & down (lube well, not over kill!!-only need a film of grease!).
Reinsert pin back into the assmebly and you are done.
NOW this is an idiot proof job. NOTHING CAN GO WRONG! This can only be reassembled one way!
Remove your cap, to look at the spinning parts.
Go get a new o ring. Replace
Go get a CHEVY SMALL BLOCK DISTRIBUTOR GASKET.
Apply a film of black RTV to both sides of the gasket, insert this gasket onto distb before replacement into the car.
I'll let others take over for the timing.
But this is such a great project and the gains are tremondeous!

TomP

Karl pretty much covered it all... here's my two cents

I used a feeler gauge to make sure all the distances between the reluctor (fixed disk with 6 magnets on it) and the pole pieces (6 spinning "fingers") were the same. I'm sure the pole pieces have bent out of spec. When you bend them to the same distance apart (make sure the fingers don't HIT the magnets on the reluctor), this increases the magnetic force on the pole pieces. You can feel this, too.

With the distributor out of the car, spin the distributor gear. It'll spin somewhat smoothly. After rebuilding it, and when you finally put the gear back on, and adjust all the pole pieces to the same distance, spin the distributor gear again. You'll feel it "pulse" as the magnets attract the pole (why do I keep typing polie?) pieces with more strength than before.

The pole pieces don't have to be rust-free since they don't make an electrical contact. I'd still use a fine-grit (320 or 400) paper on the pole pieces (fingers) tho, because the less rust in between the pole pieces and magnets, the stronger the magnetic pulse. The magnetic pulse is picked up by the circular white (or in your current distributor's state, decaying yellow) "pick-up-coil". This pick-up coil senses the magnetic pulse, then sends that signal to the black ignition module.

You might want to replace the current ignition module with an aftermarket PERFORMANCE unit. GM (AC) module is $60. An aftermarket "stock" module (say, a BorgWarner from Pep Boys) will cost $60. The Holley 891-103 is also $60 from SummitRacing.com, 800-230-3030!!! (Ask for part #HLY-891-103)

You can't get a performance pick-up coil; there's nothing that could possibly be "performance" about them.

Before you do the work, go to a Radio Shack. Buy the $4 tube of "heat sink grease" in their electronics section. Your module will die if you don't use heat sink grease!! You'll see the old grease when you remove the old module. It goes on the silver metal part of the module, and that metal part of the module goes against the distributor base. The module should come with a tiny squeeze tube of grease- use the Radio Shack stuff as extra grease! The correct grease is white, not a clear silicone.

The O-ring seal is a "1 inch inside diameter O-ring", and you can find that at any "real" auto parts store. I even found a pack of 5 for $1.20 at Pep Boys, in their metal hardware drawers by the wheel lugnuts.

KED85

Oh yeah,
What Tom said, do that too
If you can change cap and rotor on this distributor, you can do this rebuild too!

89BlackBirdKid

well my timing chain was new when I got the 3.4 along with the water pump gasket. guess I'll just have to go at it saturday and figure it all out. thanks for the help it will be very useful when I start pulling stuff off.

KED85

Now you know why I suggested have everything rebuilt ahead, so the swap is done.
It is real easy!
Honest.
WHILE you have the bolt out for the distributor, go find a longer bolt and matching nut.
Make the longer bolt into a stud & bolt hold down for putting back in distb.
Makes the jobs of securing distb in engine, real easy.

TomP

Oh and I recommend getting a timing light...

Also, before you pull the distributor, make a quick sketch of your engine compartment & distributor, and the distributor cap- and make a note of how the spark plug wires go. That way you can make sure you get the correct firing order when you put the car back together. I do that for every car I've changed spark plug wires on.

KED85

TOM!!
You are not LAZY ENOUGH YET!!!
Take the cap, it worked before, right?
Either replace it now, make engine run, then flip cap over/outta way to remove the distb. Make sure no plug wires slip off.
The placment of the WIRES OUT CONNECTION BLOCK, will be your biggest clue.
BUT, put BALANCER ON 10* TDC/Mark where ROTOR POINTS on the housing, then remove the dist.
NOTE HOW THE ROTOR MOVES as you remove the distb.
Remember that detail as you reinstall the fixed unit.
You'll do great!!

BitchinRS

I used 2 different collor markers to mark on the distributor body the location of the rotor before I pulled it and then ware the rotor was pointing after it was out. This got me verry close. I only had to move the distrib a tad to get it back in time.