Realmac4

iTrader: (2)

Post up pics, please, and size/offset, etc. The trusty ole ROH ZS's are starting to wear a little thin, might be time for an upgrade to a 18 in. Hard to find and not sure if I want to go Forgeline, TSW, etc.

Thanks

Mike

cal30_sniper

iTrader: (16)

-BMW 760 series M-Parallel Rims
-18x8" front, 18x9.5" rear
-245/40/18 Front - 275/40/18 Rear
-[13mm ET front/25mm rear (wheels)]+[1LE front hubs (+3/8") and 10mm spacers rear]=+3mm actual front offset/+15mm actual rear offset
-Aluminum 70.3mm->72.6mm hubcentric rings
-Dorman extended front and rear axle studs





Absolutely no rubbing whatsoever on the front, even at full lock, with the factory plastic liners. I had to massage the inner rear fender wells ever so slightly, near the frame rail on the inside front of each rear tire. There's a section that cuts diagonally through where the inside front of the tire arcs. It wasn't rubbing, but I didn't want to chance it in a hard corner. It would rub if the spacers weren't there. Front brake clearance with the 13" Vette setup is excellent.

Also a 1.5" drop all the way around from Hotchkis Springs and Koni Yellows.

-cal30sniper

Homer23

Your car looks good. I bet it handles really well since I have my other car lowered and on Koni yellows also.

watajob

iTrader: (29)

8.5 245/40 front
9.5 285/35 rear

cal30_sniper

iTrader: (16)

Thanks, I appreciate it. Handling and braking has been the name of the game with this car so far. Aside from the Konis and Hotchkis springs, it's also got a full Moog Problem Solver front end rebuild, J&M Adjustable Caster/Camber plates, UMI Performance Wonderbar, weld in subframe connectors, lower control arms, and panhard bar, polyurethane sway bar end links, and P-S-T polygraphite control arm bushings, along with C5 vette brakes up front and 1LE/PBR disc brakes in the rear.

I'm slowly getting together the stuff to make the powertrain live up to the rest of the build. I've got a Vortec long block and Ramjet manifold, along with a T56 and all the swap gear just waiting for the right camshaft and time to put it all in. Thinking about possibly throwing on a supercharger setup while I'm at it, we'll see.

-cal30sniper

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

forgive the dirt on the yellow one.

red car has Centerline 5 spoke Dagger wheels, 18x8 front with 4.5" of BS, c5 brakes. 18x12 with 8.5" of BS rear with 02 f-body brakes.

yellow car has APEX ARC-8 wheels 18x10.5 on all 4 corners, 295/35/18 tires. +27mm offset. The rear has 10mm 2 way hubcentric slip on spacers (almost a perfect bolt on with very very limited hammering of the front of the wheel well, bump stop in untouched), front has custom offset kore3 hubs and no spacers, would equate to about a 0.8625 spacer on a stock front brake setup. The car has long 1/2-20 screw in studs front and rear. Baer 14" S6 brake kit front and 02 f-body rear brakes


the apex wheels weighted in at 19.5 lbs each which is stupid light for a wheel in that pricerange.

Manic Z

iTrader: (1)

Those wheels on the yellow 92 look great on there!

cal30_sniper

iTrader: (16)

X2!

I would love to see more pictures of that car. It looks sweet.

rlewi771

86ta, do you have a link to the mentioned two way hub centric spacers for the rear? I appreciate your thread on correcting the bmw lug pattern to the correct GM pattern and want to do the same. I just want to make sure I can get everything to pull the job off correctly

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

They can be custom made in a truly 1 pc spacer. I just used a 10mm spacer that's hubcentric on both sides at 72.6, which is correct for the wheel, they used a common metal 72.6 x 70.3 spacer to correct the inside bore to the car. Simple really

cal30_sniper

iTrader: (16)

rlewi771, be forewarned that many of the eBay 10mm thick spacers that are 72.6mm hubcentric on both sides may not work on your application (at least without modification). In order to be 72.6mm hubcentric on both sides, the inner bore necks down to sub 70mm in the outer half of the spacer. When you try to put it on over the 70.3mm rear axle flange, it won't go down all the way, because the necked down inner bore of the spacer is too small.

I originally had this problem running a 10-bolt rear with drum brakes. I had to have the inner bore of the spacer machined out to 70.3mm. Unfortunately, the shop I had do mine also removed the outer hubcentric flange when they bored this out. The 10-bolt axle flange that I had did not go all the way through the 10mm spacer, so I was left with a spacer that was impossible to get hubcentric with the wheel.

When I swapped out to the 9-bolt, the axle flanges on it were long enough to pass all the way through the 10mm spacer. I was then able to get an aluminum 70.3mm to 72.6mm hubcentric ring that went inside the wheel and aligned it with the bit of axle flange sticking out past the 10mm spacer.

Just be careful that the spacer you buy does not have a reduced diameter inner bore in the outer half. They do this so that the wheel-side hubcentric ring has more material in it (if they kept a 70.3mm bore all the way through, the outer hubcentric ring would only be 1.15mm thick). These spacers are designed for BMWs, which have very short axle/hub flanges that end before the necked down portion of the spacer.

Hope that helps, just be careful to get the right one so you don't end up getting hit with machine shop fees to get it right.

-cal30sniper

cal30_sniper

iTrader: (16)

This is the kind of spacer that I bought. It will not work without modification to the spacer or the axle flange. Ditto with the front hubs:

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

Yes, good point I forgot. You need about 8mm of total height for the hub on the rear axle
Any more than that and they will not seat right and will crack. The ones I bought worked fine on the rear, but it was close and you will HAVE to check clearance. If you were to use a spacer like that on the front, with a thickness or .8 or whatever I figured earlier, it 'might' work, but it would be close. My custom hubs eliminated the need for any of that with these wheels, but if you go with a narrower wheel, idk what offsets are available and you may need a much wider spacer anyway.

rlewi771

thanks guys, that all makes perfect sense

cal30_sniper

iTrader: (16)

86TA,

Are you running a 10-bolt or 9-bolt? The reason I ask is, I think 8mm would be fine for a 10-bolt, but both the 9-bolts I had would have required at least 12mm of bore into the spacer for it to seat properly. I've by no means sampled the entire crowd, but the 2 9-bolts I've run these on definitely had longer axle flanges than the 10-bolt I had before.

The spacers pictured above wouldn't even come close to fitting on the front hubs I tried to run them on originally. I had originally purchased them to run them on the front. I ended up going with 1LE hubs instead, and running the 10mm spacer on the rear to keep it from rubbing the inside during hard turns.

rlewi771,

If you're looking at BMW wheels, all the "backspacing" will be listed as offset, or ET. You want an overall combination that will get as close to factory offset (0mm front and 15mm rear, IIRC). For example, my 760iL wheels were +13mm front and +25mm rear. With the 10mm wider 1LE hubs on the front and the 10mm spacer on the rear, that's +3mm front and +15mm rear. Close enough. BMW rims can run anywhere from 13mm to 46mm, so spacer size will definitely vary. If you go over 1/2" thick spacers, you really need to look at the bolt on type instead of the slip on type. Anything over about 5-8mm will definitely require extended wheel studs as well.

Hub center-bore size for Bimmer wheels also varies. Most of them are 72.6mm. There are a few 5x120 BMW models that use a 74.1mm hub center though. If you get a 74.1mm hub, you will have a lot more room for those spacers to go over your 70.3mm hub.

'01-on E39s come with a 74.1 hub bore. A lot of them came with the same design as my 760 M-parallels, only with the larger bore instead of the 72.6 that mine have. Might be something to look into.

-cal30sniper

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

a little late sorry, but yes, i use a 10 bolt in that car.

I could have used the wheels without spacers, but that would have required some more indepth metal work.

brdofpry85ta

iTrader: (1)

The wheels on the red car are just sick....do you have any pics of the rears from the rear, also what size tire are you running on those.....

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

no good new pics sadly, but here is an old one when i first fitted them


they are 335/30/18's, tucked very well. i could fit a 355 if i bumped them flush with the wheel openings.

brdofpry85ta

iTrader: (1)

Man!!! thats giv'n me a chubby(lol), did you have to massage (BFH) the inner wheel wells......

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

Um, no amount of hammering will fit those wheels. The car is minitubbed, custom offset control arms, coilovers, lots of interior work to make it look 'stock', but still lost theback seats.

brdofpry85ta

iTrader: (1)

I would love to be able to do that......Did you have to narrow the rear end....

I love those BFG tires to.....Looks awsume....

ringo234

4@ Product Description
Iroc Z replica wheels. High quality one-piece aluminum alloy rims.
Triple chrome plated (Copper, Nickel and Chrome).
Rim Size: 18x8", Wheel Lug pattern: Chevy /4) 18x8"
Iroc-Z Style Chrome Aluminum alloy wheels rims 5x4.75" lug pattern
0 offset (4.50" backspacing)

Homer23

Who actually uses the back seats for people?

I love how aggressive those BFGoodrich tire treads look.

//<86TA>\\

iTrader: (14)

No reason to narrow the rear, its a stock 3rd gen width moser 9".

reride

iTrader: (1)

Perhaps one of you guys could tell me what back-spacing would be needed with a gen4 rear. I would like to use the BMW style wheels. I'm not sure if I will go 18's & 19's or 18's squared.

The car is steet driven 95% of the time & has LS1 brakes on front & LT1's on rear. Any input would be great! Thanks, Steve

Homer23

Do you mean backspacing for the wheels? How wide are the rims?

reride

iTrader: (1)

I was mainly referring to the wheel back-spacing, but any information would be great!
My build is ready for tires & wheels. I've decided to with the BMW wheels and wasn't sure of the Back spacing for these wheels with the 4th gen rear. just like most of the world today I can't afford to trial & error.

Homer23

A lot of guys say that you have two more inches of clearance for backspacing with that rear end.

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

stumbled across this on facebook..I think you were spotted

cal30_sniper

iTrader: (16)

Haha, nice. Yeah, I just got down here to Pensacola. One of the local car guys saw me at autozone and we chatted for a bit, he's the one that took the pic. I just got back from their weekly get together at sonic, good bunch of folks.

Justin89Formy

iTrader: (26)

is it sad that I noticed your wheels and thought "I've been studying his BMW wheels for my car!" lol I knew it was yours because of the pinstripe...doubt there are 2 out there with a pinstripe and those wheels.

Small world!

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

18x9.5 Front +25mm 18x10.5 +30mm Rear custom adapters Varrestoen

18x10 +25mm all around 1.25in F 1in R adapter XXR 521

18x8 0mm Front 18x10 +20mm Rear Direct Bolt On Budnik Gasser


I like the squared 18x10 or 10.5 look better looks mean and can rotate I plan to square up again soon either another set of wheeks or get wider fronts

Dakota W.

I don't usually like that style of wheel, but they look really good, especially the back ones at that angle. Can't wait to put big wheels on my car.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Thanks car is really dirty and removed the grill and lighting really sucks for crappy camera phone , looks a lot better in person it really ties in the black out lights and spoiler I have

Dakota W.

I'd rather see a dirty car than a spotless car any day

paul_huryk

Even if all you are looking for is a visual improvement with a larger set of wheels, you will also increase handling and braking capability by a significant amount. There is a very noticeable difference between a set of 245-50-16 sized tires and a 275-35-18 sized ones - which is the size I would suggest.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

I agree its a significant difference when you use 275 and wider tires ..even when I had 18x8 with 245 handling/braking felt the same besides slightly stiffer ride , the setup look amazing but the handling and braking didn't really perform to my satisfaction,

9.5 wide wheels and 275 tires seem to be the best combo as it doesn't require much work at all too fit , you can go wider but more work and research and measuring will be needed depending on how wide you want to go , and what wheels you intend run ,

I like some of the new line up of wheels TSW has been thinking of getting another set of wheels lol there's a member on here who has the tsw nurburgring which he sold IIRC

Dakota W.

I eventually want 355s on all four corners, solely for handling. In fact I wouldn't even get bigger wheels if they didn't offer better handling, I don't do things for aesthetics usually.

cal30_sniper

iTrader: (16)

You've got a huge amount of work ahead getting those to fit under the car, front and rear...

Is it even possible? I don't recall ever seeing tires that large on a 3rd Gen

paul_huryk

To fit a 355 in front, it would require a minimum 2.5" wider fender on both sides to work - as the easy way out. Hard way would be to replace the front clip with a tubular aftermarket system and suspension, but would still require wider fenders - you can only go inboard so far without getting really close to the engine and other mechanical items.

cal30_sniper

iTrader: (16)

I would think that struts, control arms, tie-rods, etc would quickly become an issue. Inner fender well would become a nightmare as well.

paul_huryk

This is why I've been suggesting when 3rd gen folks move up to 17" and larger wheels to go for a 275 or wider tire. You are going to spend a few more $ for tires compared to the 245, but the 5% increase in grip is more than worth it. A few more $ for wider wheels too - in most cases.

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

Yea I never got that concept on why would people stay the same stock width unless your truly only care about the looks

the cost difference is minimal like you said sometimes cheaper or same if you catch a good deal well worth the extra cost from my experience best bang for buck

nychevyguy

does anyone know if they sell 18" chrome iroc rims that are 18x9.5 i only can find 18x8..also would i need to modify in any way with 18x9 or 18x9.5 thanks

Zach/90\irocZ

iTrader: (6)

No they dont you can get them widen for about 150 to 200 a wheel

Wouldn't need any work

bigdavesiroc

18x9 rears with 275/35/18 and 18x8 front with 255/40/18. nitto 555 all the way around . the rears had zero offsett with 5.0 in bs and front zero offset 4.5 in bs

bigdavesiroc