I installed the B&M console shifter and the relay from radio shack and ever since then the trunk release has not worked properly. It used to work with out the key on and my alarm system would release it as well. Now the only way it works if when the key is in the run position. I am not sure why but my first guess it that the relay is cutting the power out to the switch but it does not look like they are on the same circut. Does this make sence to anyone and if so any direction on how to correct the problem would be appericiated.

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'84 Camaro w/ Large Jouranl 327 bored .030 over; 3.73 geared Auburn Limited Slip Diff. FlowMaster Muffler w/ Shortie Headers. TH-350 Built Trany Underneath B Mega-Shifter. Many Engine compartment Dress Up Mods. Edelbrock High Flow Water Pump w/ Flex-a-Lite Cooling Fan.
Work in progress is Sponh Torque Arm. It is still under construction @ www.chartermi.net~brodgers

 

Mine does the same thing, key has to be in the ignition to pop the electric hatch. Not sure how to fix it and sure don't want to have to rewire that relay, it was a pain. I just live with it hehe.


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EVILFACE

88 Camaro
Stock 305 TBI Auto, Flowmaster, Full 3" Exhaust, B&M Megashifter, K&N Open Element
Runs A Blistering 16.5 @ 81.5 mph

http://www.evilface.com/evilscamaro.htm

 

I thought about just trying to rewire the release switch only from a hot wire (cig. lighter?) and trying that but I am conceren on how that would effect the usability of the alarm trunk release.

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'84 Camaro w/ Large Jouranl 327 bored .030 over; 3.73 geared Auburn Limited Slip Diff. FlowMaster Muffler w/ Shortie Headers. TH-350 Built Trany Underneath B Mega-Shifter. Many Engine compartment Dress Up Mods. Edelbrock High Flow Water Pump w/ Flex-a-Lite Cooling Fan.
Work in progress is Sponh Torque Arm. It is still under construction @ www.chartermi.net~brodgers

 

Would it be possible to find a always hor wire on the relay and run a wire from there?
I will be installing a mega shifter soon so I'm sure I will be running into the same problems.

Steve

 

Yeah i had the same problem too but i just live with it.

 

I'll try to fix it this weekend using a hot wire from somewhere. It sounds like several people have the same issues but not for certain fixes. I will post the results of the trial this weekend. I hope it works.

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'84 Camaro w/ Large Jouranl 327 bored .030 over; 3.73 geared Auburn Limited Slip Diff. FlowMaster Muffler w/ Shortie Headers. TH-350 Built Trany Underneath B Mega-Shifter. Many Engine compartment Dress Up Mods. Edelbrock High Flow Water Pump w/ Flex-a-Lite Cooling Fan.
Work in progress is Sponh Torque Arm. It is still under construction @ www.chartermi.net~brodgers

 

I dont seem to have that problem. Then again, I didnt hook up the relay, I only used the switches that B&M sent me. Whats the deal with the relay anyway? I never really understood it.

 

I didn't use the relay either and my hatch works properly. I only used the switches that B&M provided. I forgot what that relay was for. Does anyone remember?

Tim

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TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

 

I Thought the relay was to control the neutral saftey switch and reverse lights. But I could be wrong. I'll reveiew it again perhaps I may be able to remove it entirely. Do your NSS and reverse lights work?

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'84 Camaro w/ Large Jouranl 327 bored .030 over; 3.73 geared Auburn Limited Slip Diff. FlowMaster Muffler w/ Shortie Headers. TH-350 Built Trany Underneath B Mega-Shifter. Many Engine compartment Dress Up Mods. Edelbrock High Flow Water Pump w/ Flex-a-Lite Cooling Fan.
Work in progress is Sponh Torque Arm. It is still under construction @ www.chartermi.net~brodgers

 

A relay is for switching a high current with a small switch. You need a relay when the current gets high enough to fry the small switches. Thay are a good safety precaution sometimes.

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91 Z28 Camaro
305 TPI
Flowmaster 3" exhaust
700R4 with 2000 Stall and shift kit 3.42 rearend
One sweet sounding system

 

That makes sense about the relay. Ive only had my shifter in for a little over a week so hopefully I wont have any problems with high current. In reply to brockrodgers, yes my reverse lights and neutral safety switch work fine.

 

My reverse lights and neutral safety switch work fine also. However, I have noticed that Diacom does NOT register the "Park/Neutral Switch". Does anyone else with the MegaShifter AND Diacom have the same problem?

Tim

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TRAXION's 1990 IROC-Z
Best Time = 12.244 @ 112.51mph (1.778 60' / 7.819@88.32mph in the 1/8)
All Natural. No Force. No Drugs. Stock Bottom End. Stock Body Panels.
Gunning for NA 11's with bigger cam, bigger stall, and bigger exhaust.
-=ICON Motorsports=-
Moderator: PROM board at thirdgen.org

 

That's exactly the reason for the relays Traxion. It's so the computer can register the park/neutral status so that the TCC cannot lockup when in neutral and park (and probably some other reasons). it's not really needed since you also have to be above 35MPH for it to lock up and that's not gonna happen if you're in park. it's a good idea to install it eventually just so everything is working as it was intended to.

 

I tried to re-wire the switch on Saturday and had no luck. Actually the wire that was going to the switch was allready hot. All I can guess is that there is not enough voltage or Amps. The switch works when the ignition is on. Any other Ideas?

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'84 Camaro w/ Large Jouranl 327 bored .030 over; 3.73 geared Auburn Limited Slip Diff. FlowMaster Muffler w/ Shortie Headers. TH-350 Built Trany Underneath B Mega-Shifter. Many Engine compartment Dress Up Mods. Edelbrock High Flow Water Pump w/ Flex-a-Lite Cooling Fan.
Work in progress is Sponh Torque Arm. It is still under construction @ www.chartermi.net~brodgers

 

Check the wire going to the ignition switch or the one that is not hot and see if it is grounded. It may be that when the ignition switch is on you have a path to ground, maybe not. If the wire you said was hot is always hot then you need to find the wire that goes to the hatch soleniod. This is the wire that is hooked to the other side of the switch. The other soleniod wire at the latch should go to ground and complete the circuit.
A wiring diagram would also be helpful.

Steve

[This message has been edited by steve8586iroc (edited May 21, 2001).]