Universal Spark Plug Wires
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Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 335
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From: Glen Burnie, MD USA
Car: 1989 IROC
Engine: 350
Transmission: T56
Universal Spark Plug Wires
Has anyone had success with universal plug wires? Do they tend to last? What did you use to crimp the ends? What brand have you had the most luck with?
Thanks
Tim
Thanks
Tim
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Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 202
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From: Dallas TX
Car: 87 Formula 350
Engine: LS1 in Progress
Transmission: T56
Axle/Gears: 3.70 9 bolt
I had sucess at them falling apart. But I prolly did it wrong. The brand was accel and they did last quite a while though...once I got them to stay together that is.
I prefer them. Cutting and crimping them yourself lets you get the length just how you want it. You don't end up with wires snaked all over the engine compartment. The set I have now are MSD and came with a crimping "tool". It is a plastic block that serves as a template for stripping the insulation. When you're ready to crimp, the tool fits into a vise and crimps wires for you. I didn't know it came with the wires at the time so bought one. Now I have two. Woe is me!
by the way, beautiful car!
by the way, beautiful car!
It is the only way to go if your into having a clean and tidy engine bay.
I use a an everyday wire stripper and coaxial cable, TV, crimper to get the job done, works perfect.
Taylor wires by the way!
I use a an everyday wire stripper and coaxial cable, TV, crimper to get the job done, works perfect.
Taylor wires by the way!
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,042
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 357 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
It's difficult, but with the right crimp tool, lubricant, and effort, they work really well. I HIGHLY recommend the Taylor Spiro Pro's 90-degree with the Taylor crimping tool, and Made4U centerbolt looms. Works out TREMENDOUSLY well. The boots are really well made - use the factory heavy duty ones on the plugs, and the ones you put on on the dist cap. You'll really like how organized it is when you cut them to fit with the looms. Awesome.
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Joined: Jun 2001
Posts: 9,550
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From: Charleston, SC
Car: 91 Camaro Vert
Engine: 02 LS1, HX40
Transmission: 2002 LS1 M6
just want to point this out since ive seen this mistake more then once.
if you have a loom that goes over the valve covers, and you make it a sung length without alot of slack, you will have problems removing the valvecover... and taking plugwires off to get at the valvecovers is a PITA.
if you have a loom that goes over the valve covers, and you make it a sung length without alot of slack, you will have problems removing the valvecover... and taking plugwires off to get at the valvecovers is a PITA.
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Joined: Oct 2002
Posts: 1,042
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From: Oklahoma City, OK
Car: 92 Z28
Engine: 357 TPI (L98)
Transmission: 700R4
If you need to keep the engine running, then yeah it's a little tricky, but a few tie wraps cures it. Especially if you have good wires and coated headers! You can be a little less careful - I can vouch for this. This combo is especially helpful when adjusting valves with engine running.
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Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,776
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From: Santa Monica, CA
Car: '91 Camaro RS
Engine: F1R Procharged 383
Transmission: Tremec 600
Axle/Gears: moser 12 bolt, 4.11's 33 spline axl
If you buy a set of ignition terminal pliers from MSD......its SOOOOO easy to do.
i actually had fun making wires....used to be a pain in the a**
the pliers ratchet closed too, so you can put some force on there.
i used moroso wires.....work great
i actually had fun making wires....used to be a pain in the a**
the pliers ratchet closed too, so you can put some force on there.
i used moroso wires.....work great
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