wdigitog

anyone try the jegs torque arm? it's cheaper than the rest of 'em ( PA, Spohn, global...) is adjustable and attaches to the floorpan and not the trannie.......any opinions?

1FastZ

I would say its probably not a very good idea to attach anything to our floor pans.

Rogue86

I have one and it works great.

500+ horse 406 hasn't torn away the tranny tunnel yet.

Plus you can put whatever tranny you want in with a jegs arm, since it doesn't have to mount to the case, or have to change the crossmember like the spohn piece.

Snapshot

For the life of me, I can't see how attaching the torque arm to the sheetmetal in the tunnel would work. It just seems too flimsy. But after reading people like Rogue86 post how they're running big horsepower numbers using the Jegs kit, I just don't know anymore. Maybe if I welded the plate to the tunnel for extra strength....

Damn, and I had just decided to buy the Spohn unit. I just don't know now. Maybe I'll save some money and get the Jegs instead.
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Rogue86, is your car a strip only car, or is it street driven?
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Sleeper_Z

iTrader: (1)

The Jegs t-arm attaches to the floor with 6 or 8 bolts and a very large plate that is a foot long and goes all the way around the trans tunnel also, and its not like the trans tunnel is made out of tin. The Spohn t-arm for the 4th gen cars mounts to basically the trans tunnel where the stock tunnel brace goes.

Jeremy

wesilva

iTrader: (35)

If I'm not mistaken, the Jegs unit is shorter than Spohn, Edelbrock, and others. The short units are supposed to be more effective. I am happy with my Spohn...a combination of transmission crossmember, driveshaft loop and torque arm but if I would do it again, IMHO the Global West Unit is superior. Shorter with a better control. Unfortunetly, it's the priceyest.

The Jegs part I definetly am considering is the panrod bar. It's adjustable, not only in length but has a multipoint attachment feature. Great for lowered vehicles like mine.

Shagwell

-shorter can be better depending on hp level. Lesser power levels work better with a shorter arm because the "instant center"(point of lift) is quicker, meaning it reacts faster to plant the tires. Also, a shorter arm is trying to pick up less of the car, therefore with lower power it hooks better.
- That said, with higher hp levels and equal traction, longer arms work better. You have to remember, you want to go forward, not up. If you have enough power to keep the tires planted with a longer arm, you'll be transferring more weight, but at a slower rate.

Different combinations call for different set-ups. Why do you think most drag cars go to 4-link? Inffinite adjustability of 'instant center".
There are many other factors involved, this is just some of the general.

also, I go 1.6X 60fts on 17" wheels with a tq arm about 4" shorter than factory.

Free Bird

iTrader: (1)

I'm using one. 1.57 60' and that was spinning launching on the 2 step at 5900rpm. For real big numbers, the short tq arm may hurt you. But I'm talking about single digit 1/4s. If I backed off the launch rpm a 1.50-1.4X 60' isn't out of the question. Not bad for a 6 spd.

ckeene502

i went with the gw arm....love it.

wdigitog

what torque numbers are you guys reaching? when does the aftermarket arm "kick-in"?......ie, at what torque would i benifit from using a non-stock arm?

primo

Any Pics?

Shagwell

any level. An aftermarket tq arm won't flex like the factory arm. An otherwise stock car will benefit from sub-frames, control arms, and torque arm.

ssean92

iTrader: (10)

i would like to see pics also i am looking for new ones for the camaro and ta.