Mallory Unilite Question
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Aiken, SC
Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
Mallory Unilite Question
I have a Mallory Unilite part #3748201 I got it used with no cam gear on the bottom.
I bought a bronze gear part # 29426 and went to install.
Now the questions.
1. The gear is not drilled all the way through for the roll pin to go through the gear through the shaft and through the gear again. Is this a defect and should I drill a hole all the way through the gear for more positive retention and for the option of removing it later?
2. I do not see a washer on the mallory site that would go between the gear and the housing. Without a washer or bearing the gear could run against the housing. I see no such part on the web site. The distributor should have one if not its a design flaw. Input and possible part number please.
The whole unit looks to be a bad design
thanks
I bought a bronze gear part # 29426 and went to install.
Now the questions.
1. The gear is not drilled all the way through for the roll pin to go through the gear through the shaft and through the gear again. Is this a defect and should I drill a hole all the way through the gear for more positive retention and for the option of removing it later?
2. I do not see a washer on the mallory site that would go between the gear and the housing. Without a washer or bearing the gear could run against the housing. I see no such part on the web site. The distributor should have one if not its a design flaw. Input and possible part number please.
The whole unit looks to be a bad design
thanks
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: in a house
Car: 71 chevelle, 73 camaro, 94 probe
Engine: 408 bbc, 360 sbc, 2.5l v-6
Transmission: 4spd, 3spd, 5spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 4:10, 10 bolt 3:42, stock
1. That is not a defect in the gear. They do not drill it all the way through. Yes you need to drill it.
2. Moroso makes a kit that has the washers you need. Use enough to remove all but about .005" to .010" end play. Tight enough to remove the slop but not so tight that it has friction when you turn it. I think Mr. Gasket also has a kit for this.
3. You do not need the bronze gear unless you have a cam that is made from billet steel. Usually that is a solid roller not a flat tappet design. You can use it on all cams but it will wear out. You just have to check it and replace when needed.
4. Be carefull with voltage to the Unilite. They do not like voltage spikes. I think they want 7 - 9 volts going to the module at idle. Mallory makes an Active Power Filter that dampens voltage spikes to the unit. I think the part number is 29351. And make sure you have good grounds.
2. Moroso makes a kit that has the washers you need. Use enough to remove all but about .005" to .010" end play. Tight enough to remove the slop but not so tight that it has friction when you turn it. I think Mr. Gasket also has a kit for this.
3. You do not need the bronze gear unless you have a cam that is made from billet steel. Usually that is a solid roller not a flat tappet design. You can use it on all cams but it will wear out. You just have to check it and replace when needed.
4. Be carefull with voltage to the Unilite. They do not like voltage spikes. I think they want 7 - 9 volts going to the module at idle. Mallory makes an Active Power Filter that dampens voltage spikes to the unit. I think the part number is 29351. And make sure you have good grounds.
Thread Starter
Senior Member
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 544
Likes: 2
From: Aiken, SC
Car: 91 Z/28, 89 RS Race Car
Engine: 305 stock / ZZ4 AFR 195 9.7:1
Transmission: T5 / t10 / Jerico
Axle/Gears: 10blt w 3.42, 9 in w /3.80 DL
Thanks potato man!!
I called mallory today they are to send me the washer. Like you said the stated that I need to drill the gear all the way through.
I am running a solid roller that need this gear. (thanks for asking)
Running the unilite with an msd 6al. Do I still need some type of resister? I was planning on grounding the dist to the block or intake. Do you suggest that I run a wire to battery?
I called mallory today they are to send me the washer. Like you said the stated that I need to drill the gear all the way through.
I am running a solid roller that need this gear. (thanks for asking)
Running the unilite with an msd 6al. Do I still need some type of resister? I was planning on grounding the dist to the block or intake. Do you suggest that I run a wire to battery?
Junior Member
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 61
Likes: 0
From: in a house
Car: 71 chevelle, 73 camaro, 94 probe
Engine: 408 bbc, 360 sbc, 2.5l v-6
Transmission: 4spd, 3spd, 5spd
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt 4:10, 10 bolt 3:42, stock
No problem.
Check the end play before you install it. You may want to get the shim kit also. The Mallory washer usually is still a little loose to me.
You should still use a resistor even with the box. Hook the little red "MSD on" wire and the "key on" wire to one end and the Unilite red wire to the other.
The Unilite was designed to replace points, so they run off voltage that was ment for points. Thats why so many 75 and up HEI cars kill them. Too much voltage. They run for awhile then die.
Grounding to the intake is fine. I usually use one of the coil mounting bosses. Make sure to hook up the origonal GM grounds - the little braided ones - also.
Check the end play before you install it. You may want to get the shim kit also. The Mallory washer usually is still a little loose to me.
You should still use a resistor even with the box. Hook the little red "MSD on" wire and the "key on" wire to one end and the Unilite red wire to the other.
The Unilite was designed to replace points, so they run off voltage that was ment for points. Thats why so many 75 and up HEI cars kill them. Too much voltage. They run for awhile then die.
Grounding to the intake is fine. I usually use one of the coil mounting bosses. Make sure to hook up the origonal GM grounds - the little braided ones - also.
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