I completely forgot to write this. I'm finishing up my 3rd 383 build right now. Previously I've always bought a GM 4bolt block for around 100 bux, brought it to a machinist and paid for it to be align honed, align bored, decked, clearanced, bored, etc, etc. This machine work usually is between 1000-1500 bux. So to have a read to assemble block costs me around 1100-1600.

For the build I'm doing now I bought a fully prepped GM 4 bolt 1piece RMS delivered to my door for 715.00 !! I've gone through, inspected all bores, deck heights, stroker clearancing and overall quality of work. The blocks are apparently coming out of Mexico but are geniune GM blocks and the workmanship is GREAT!! Truely a take delivery, wash it and start assembling. I'll post some pictures if needed but I really can't say enough good things.

 

mmmm out of Mexico

 

I was skeptical of it at first sight, BUT I've gone through with dial bore indicators, mic's, verniers, feeler gauges. This is as good as you can get from what I see out of a catalog. Yes, the workmanship IMO equals Dart, WorldProducts, etc, difference being its a GM block from Summit. Believe me, I'm from a machinist background and I HATE, HATE when I see good products come from Mexico or China because I know that was a product that could have been made equally as good here but at a higher price, hence the choice to outsource rather than go domestic. BUT, its a good quality piece from what I can see.

To clarify my mentioning of Dart and World. Their products are on a higher echelon than this Summit block, I'm just saying the machining quality seems to be match on. Also, the maching no doubt is out of Mexico, the blocks are being gathered from all of North America I'd assume. The machinist who just did my heads said he was trying his damndist to buy GM 4 bolt blocks because their getting harder and harder to find. He's buying almost any condition, as long as its able to be ressurected to a good useable block.

 

MM well then you may have just sold me on a GM block made in Mexico.
but i feel what your saying, why can't they make good American products at "Mexico / China made " Prices in the US tell me how every thing goes and if you don't mind i would like to know where u purchased the block from.

 

We have a problem with charging a fair price. We charge what people think they will pay for "Made in the USA" to be stamped on something. Problem is that most people wont pay for that stamp if an identical quality item is being made for less.

 

I'd pay some what more for that same quality if it was "made in the USA"

 

The Summit website shows the cheapest 383 for $1799......And only 2 383s at all!

 

I would too, but double price

http://www.summitracing.com/search/D.../?Ns=Price|Asc

350sbc, oem deck, cast iron, is the standard for my example.

The cheapest block from GMPP $729.50, the next least expensive from another brand, which was World, was $1859.95.

 

a lot if gm parts are made there

 

When I lived in El Paso, some of the guys said they would try to get Mexico blocks because they had more nickel (?) in them??? Unless they were f***ing with me, which is all too possible!

 

Im convinced the high nickel thing is a myth. I've never seen any proof at all. It's just always what someone heard from someone. Smokey Yunick probably farted somethign to that nature out of his armpit and it became gospel... Even if it is high in nickel, I see no scientific evidence that that is a good thing.

 

http://www.summitracing.com/search/P...k&autoview=SKU


List price is 649.99 before delivery

 

The 010 blocks were high nickel 350 blocks. People say that they are just regular blocks and one of the most common to be found, and that may be true.
But if you look at any Chris Craft or other good, quality marine conversion engine from a boat with a 350, they are almost always the 010 block.

I recently helped a freind of mine pickup a Chris Craft/Chevy 350 off of Craigslist and take it to his shop where we disassembled itbecause it had a blown head gasket. It was left sitting and the cylinder wall was rusting in the bad cylinder. It was fairly light rust and a little sanding with a light paper took it right out. If it had been a regular block I'm pretty sure the rust damage would have been worse.

I've also seen Volvo and Mercruiser 010 350's. Marine engines usually have heavy duty components since they run prety much "constant duty" although they aren't usually run at extremely high RPM's in normal production family boats.

 

OK...I was looking at assembled 383 shortblocks, not bare blocks, which explains why I couldn't find it.

 

I've had that 383 block in my summit wish list for awhile now.....you just made up my mind.

 

To my door:

Order Charges
Delivery and Handling Charge $11.95
(Truck Freight Policy) Truck Fee $99.00
Estimated Total $760.90

Not too bad, but I have a 500 Caddy in the shop looking for a home. No substitute for cubic inches.

 

WOw what a deal. I have a 92 Z28 and thought about converting it to a 383. What kind of power do you think could be made with a 383 roller with Trick Flow heads?

 

Speed costs money, how fast do you want to go?

 

I'd like to get 450-500 to the crank. I just sold my Saleen that had 585 RWHP so I know I won't be anywhere close.

I think with a 383 forged pistons, roller motor and the trickflow aluminum heads that should be possible.

 

Do a search on the 100's of 383 combos here. You'll find numerous examples .My setup last season was COMPLETELY F'd up timing wise. I mistakenly had the entire timing table 12 degrees off (timing retarded). I still made 327rwhp and 480ft-lbs of torque. When my timing is corrected and I put the blower back in I'm confident I'll be above 500 rwhp and close to 600 ft-lbs @ around 9psi.

 

The block I am running is a fourbolt made in Mexico, and machined there. I have had no problems and found it to be of good quality. My engine now has over 10,000 hard miles on it and is running better than ever...

 

Do these blocks come with the entire 1 piece rear main seal already installed on the block?

 

Comes with the rear seal housing, but no seal. Basically, bearings and seals are left out. Comes with mains and main bolts. My engine fired up just fine and I'm getting ready to take her out and break the new engine in soon, weather permitting.

 

Alright, the cam bearings are installed though, correct?

 

Tomorrow is suppose to be in the 50's adam. Im taking the Iroc out tomorrow to try out my new chip!

Anyway, that block looks good for 700. its good to know its a quality block.

 

Just bought one of these 4 bolt 383 roller block with 1pc RMS the other day....went on sale for $589..95!!!! I just had to have it

There is "NO WAY" I could ever get a prepped block for that kind of $$$ from any machine shop around here!!!! Even if I brought my own block in I wouldn't get it out the door for that much money!!!

Thank you Summit Racing Equipment.....!!!!!!!!!!

I'm gonna have have the block decked because the tech line said that they just skim the deck surface... "that'll probably cost 1/2 what I paid for the block"

 

Now don't go racing over to Summit. It's only $60 off the regular price

 

I ordered the block because it was going to cost me more to buy a standard block and have the work done to it. Not to mention having to take it to the shop go back and pick it up. Here is a couple pictures of the block. Just remember when they deliver it by UPS it's brought to you in a semi-trailer not the little brown truck.

 

I've been considering this block for some time, is it as good as it looks?

 

I'm wondering too. I'd like to see some bore measurements. Who's the reman company?

 

I haven't put the engine together yet. I'm still getting the parts in. It has all the grinding for H beam rods and coated in a very heavy oil.

They are factory roller cam engines too.

 

Damn. If these things are still in stock and on sale next week I'm going to have to order one.

 

"AC" says at the top of this thread that the workmanship is top notch, comparable to World or Dart...and that he's from a machinist background....

We'll see when it gets here!!!! But I have no doubts that it's gonna be as good as he says it is!!!!.........

 

Just out of curiosity, I looked at the machining receipts for my last small block rebuild. The block totaled at $575 for a 2 bolt main that I supplied, 2 piece rear main, and no roller cam castings. The Summit block is way ahead of mine. Time to sell some things on eBay and buy the block.
Craig

 

can i borrow some money?

 

When I asked that the information I was looking for was not for it's appearance but it's actual machining. I was asking in an abbreviated way, how the machining was...IE...squareness of block deck, main saddle straightness, if the sizes of the cylinders are equal....and things like that. I can already see one thing by your reply, if the tech said "we only skim the deck surface" I doubt if the block is square, although for a street build it would not be necessary. How does this one thing (squareness) compare with some of the prementioned "BIG GUYS" blocks?

 

I didn't check for squarness of the block because for what it is (street motor). What I was checking in bore dia's, ID's and the like was consistency in dimensions which is exactly what I found. Machining was in spec and very consistent to like dimensions. For the price I still have to say you can't beat it.

 

I also just bought one of these blocks about a week ago. I haven't measured anything yet, but the machine work appears to be right on. I'm curious to see some of the components you guys are choosing when building based off of this block and what kind of results you guys are achieving. This is going to be my first engine build, so i'm always open for ideas as to which way to go. Thanks!

 

Same here. I'm pretty much set on forged parts and AFR heads. I think I'll probably use the Comp XE280 cam with it too. (Not 100% on anything though.)

 

I have a forged Scat H-beam rotating assembly, Comp Cams 292XFI, and a Hays Aluminum 13 lb flywheel ready to go in. Saving up for a set of AFR 195 heads, miniram and a T-56.

 

Sounds good. About the only thing I have decided on so far is an Eagle or Scat forged H-beam rotating assembly, but haven't picked out which one yet. I can't decide if I want to put a carb on it or go fuel injected either.

 

I am doing a 383 tpi build with mine. TPIS Bigmouth intake and runners, afr 195cc heads, XFI 276 cam, and an eagle forged stroker kit.

 

Does anyone know what the cylinder bore is on the summit 383 bare blocks? Thanks.

 

4.030

 

has anyone checked the deck height? I wonder how much they deck them!

 

On the website they say standard deck height.

 

That just means they're a standard more-or-less 9" deck, not a tall deck. It doesn't mean they haven't been machined.

And the high-nickel thing is a myth, by the way.

 

Standard deck height is 9.025"
This block has had it's deck re-surfaced, but I'm sure it's minimal.

I'll throw a rod and piston in and see what it measures in at.... (soon)

(I haven't assembled my 383 yet because my basement flooded this spring and rebuilding it has taken priority...)

sh*tty eh?....

 

I was always told that a block should be bored to the piston! with this block already bored I wonder how the clearance will be for with a forged piston? any thoughts?

 

The piston should be sized for the bore too, so...