arley

i just got my first 91 rs l03 tbi. the people i got it from, bolted all stock parts back on, but the body alone and the under carrage is a perfect florida car, no rust, im in upper michigan so this is rare. it did come with 3'' flowmaster and hooker headers underneith, but it STARVING. i want to get

1. heads rebuilt pair of Small Block Chevrolet cylinder heads. 76 cc combustion chambers. Casting number is 193. Heads have the center bolt through valve cover

2. a comp 305 350 chevy scs tbi fuel inj hyd 252 camshaft cam

3. cfm power flate and shave down my tbi walls around the ports.
in your opinion till i can affor more will this set up work?


then do the gears , maybe a new tranny, but thats in the spring, im lookin to build a little under a grand till i put it away in nov.

Ron U.S.M.C.

When you start to do heads and cam that usually means its time to tune the car or it will not run properly.Thats one of the reasons why I did some of the basics with my 5.0 and 700r4 trans. then went straight to the rear gearing and posi. upgrade from 2.73 open to 3.42 and Eaton posi. Happy,yes I am.

Ron U.S.M.C.

Also I would cancel your other double post so you only have one running.

Dakota W.

I'd say just get your heads port and polished, edelbrock intake, new rear gears, and maybe an underdrive pulley kit. You're going to be spending some serious cash if you want to make those heads and cam work. You might also consider shaving some weight off your car.

arley

yea i plan on new gears very soon, good to here that u are happy with 3.42. thank you for your input.

arley

yea im ganna check into the heads port and polished intead of of new heads, do u have an average hp growth from doing this? sounds much better then the new heads, and much cheeper, if i can get the same hp, and if its much cheeper to do then thats defently the way im ganna go. The cam i already got, just have to get it in, so instead of the new heads ill do the gears right away, thank you

blackbmagic

New cam is going to = New tune.

Depending on how extensive the porting is on the head you can expect anywhere from a 10-20hp gain if done correctly.

The larger cam and head work over stock will not generally increase low end grunt or umph but it will increase your mid to upper RPM power and torque.

Because of the shift and boost in the power band you are going to want to change your rear end gear ratio and probably your converter stall to take full advantage of the modifications.

That is if the current tune allows for the increase in air and fuel. Otherwise your mods will mean absolutely nothing.

arley

thank you blackbmagic, by tuning, are u refering to the chip?

arley

ok found all that u ment on tbi section talking about tuning the ecm. Thank u again guys, im new at this but want to learn from reading and getting my hands on this and every little direction pointer counts.

Mystyk_Wynds

Rpm air gap intake
Injector pod spacer
Adjustable fuel pressure regulator
free flowing air cleaner
Junkyard, find a 454 tbi 2" throttle bores
Good plugs wires Ie granetelli 0 ohms/ft or msd 50ohms/ft
Voltage stabilizer
Grounding strap upgrades (Upgrade alternator to battery wire)

Ron U.S.M.C.

Well there are some that would tell you not to through internal parts at a 5.0 engine.
I'm not going to say don't do it but that TBI needs air now.The first thing I did with mine was opened up the airway with a Open air element.There are better ways but this fit me fine.Second for most would be full exhaust but it sounds like that's covered. Now that your car is breathing better I would take a look at installing a $25.00 Corvette servo. into the 700r4 to sharpen up the shifts(I did mine in about 2hrs because it was my first time)and that did exactly what I wanted it to do.A shift kit was not necessary after that but you will have to be the judge.Bump the timing a bit for better throttle response off the line. Now I would drop the rear end cover and take a look at whats in there. I say if it has the 2.73 gears and open carrier than I would do that first.Do what ever it is that you want to do with the engine on paper and then build a rear to compliment that.Mine is a DD,auto. so I went from the 2.73 open to a 3.42 posi. and it took what power the 5.0 has and put it to the ground in a very nice way. It will change the way you look at your car.It makes that much of a difference.A 2.73 open is killing that 5.0 to death.Everything that has been mentioned so far needs to be done anyway , I just put the rear before the engine build.You will love it and may even find that your plans for the engine have changed.
Here's a link to the servo.install =
Http://sethirdgen.org/servo.htm

Mystyk_Wynds

As far as internals, you have to balance durability vs weight vs cost. And that is all personal preference.
For example, if you want a more durable bottom end, firs thing everyone says is forged cranks. Now if you do your homework, you'll find one for as little as $200. But now weight and reciprocating mass become a factor. This factor is the same with forged rods and pistons.
so its personal preference.

Dakota W.

Unless the L03's are 4 bolt mains, I wouldn't even worry about forged internals, you wouldn't even be making enough power to need forged with 2 bolt mains.

Ivos

I'll throw it out there too, going from a 2.73 open diff to a 3.23 posi made a world of a difference in my 305 tbi car too.

watajob

iTrader: (29)

https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/afte...rst-round.html

ringo234

If it was my car I would only do mods that will still work with an eventual engine swap. A 305 will only improve so much (not worth going into the motor IMO)

ie: Headers (Dyno Don's), free flowing cat (Magnaflow), 3" cat-back free flowing muffler (Magnaflow).
3.42Posi rear end. Possibly a shifter kit with corvette servo.
Subframe connectors.
Wonder bar (if needed)
brake upgrade. I went with LS1 front and back (huge improvement over stock).

After that should be go to go for real horsepower with a motor swap.
Good Luck

Ron U.S.M.C.

I agree with this statement because its not just the time and money rebuilding a engine but what it takes to get it done.I would not pull a 5.0 motor out then put it back with new mods.No way if I ever pull my engine at least a 350 "WILL" be going in.

arley

Thanks for all the replies, alot of good stuff! yea i just orderd a cfm power plate and injector spacers, new cam is coming but that will probly be this january when its parked for the winter, along with outher major engine mods. Also i wnt to do the 3.42 posi and the vete servo. I like that idea of keeping the parts i buy 350 compatable, becouse i know in a few years one will be going in. but between the paint job, haks hood and engine parts im ganna spend this winter im about taped out for cash. ill keep ya'll posted on the progress.

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Umm...I'm not 100% on this by WHY would you go with 76cc heads? Isn't the typical 305 head about 52cc, and the typical 350 head 64cc?

76cc heads would just drop your compression like a rock.

I say if its running DRIVE it as. The only reason to have any thirdgen head redone is because you want to keep it stock when its broke. When it comes to mods its much cheaper to move to a better head than have the stock ported.

Camshaft? Yeah stock TBI cam is crap.


____________________

Its sounds to me like you just got this car, and don't have much experience with these cars at all and the available mods and costs associated with those mods. I say if the car runs drive it, don't mod it until you have some experience and time under your belt with the car, and can work up a solid plan with goals. The whole thing has to work together.

Ron U.S.M.C.

I did some research and the Cam you have picked sounds kind of mild,and am curious, will give you a nice "lumpy"sound at idle and how many horses can be gained with just that install.

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

First what are your goals for the car? That is very important as it will dictate the parts and direction your car is going in.

For example if you are going to stay with a more mild mannered car there is no need to go out and by a 9 inch Ford rear end for your car.

Keep in mind that a series of total system changes (that are matched to your goals and the car) will give you the best all around performance.

Yes you will make more power with a 350 if you decide to swap that in to your car in the future. There are ways to get the 305 to perform better as well.

The TBI cars have heads that don't flow very well and a camshaft that is not at all geared towards performance. Having said that though a stock 305 TBI car is very reliable, easy on gas, and as long as you take care of it will last you for years.

The exhaust system is also another point of contention on the TBI cars and it sounds like the previous owner may have addressed that issue. With the exhaust you are going to want to look in to parts that were designed for TPI 3 inch single cat systems. These will flow more than the aftermarket exhaust parts that are designed for the TBI 305 cars which are much smaller.

Also keep in mind that GM has already hopped up the 305 engine before - the L69. It is easy to get more performance than the stock L69 but follow along with GM's methodology for increasing the 305's performance. The L69 is a hopped up version of the LG4.

GM increased the compression ratio (9.5:1 vs 8.6:1). They gave the L69 engines that dual snorkel air intake, and aluminum intake manifold, larger exhaust system from the manifolds on back to the muffler. They also installed deeper gears (3.42's for automatics and 3.73's for 5-speeds). They also gave the L69 more ignition timing and a different tune for better performance. The L69 also had a camshaft that was very simular to the L82 Corvette 350 motor at the time. Also the L69 and LG4 engines also used the same cylinder heads.

The L69 305 was rated at 190hp and 240 foot pounds of torque.

The LG4 305 was rated at 150hp and 240 foot pounds of torque if I'm not mistaken.

Those cylinder heads are too large for your motor. The L98 TPI and LB9 TPI cars should have the '081' cylinder heads and they have 64cc's.

The L03, LG4, L69 305 heads should have 58cc's if I'm not mistaken.

There are some articles on hopping up 305 TBI cars. I'll post them so that you can see. In particular this article deals with hopping up the performance of a 1989 Camaro RS that has the L03/T-5/3.08 10bolt rear end. It should help answer some TBI performance questions that are being addressed here.

This is the link to the articles: http://thirdgenfbody.wordpress.com/2011/03/

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

arley

Thirdgen89GTA, and Yaj15, thanks for the info. Yaj yea thank you, my goal with this car is to have a summer driver that performs as good as the paint job. with the engine i want have about a grand im a first semester industrial technology major with a minor in automotive, so i cant afford alot but to do this dream work is my home work right now. and like i said this car is mint for 21 years. So any info is great my instructors know alot, but this sight knows my car.

so yeah i wnt to start with the power plate and injector spacers, the cam and rear end. So the cam is to mild, i really agree, it was only 140 so yea can get another in a few days. what comp am u guys thinking?

arley

But the engine was rebulit 40.000 miles ago, when i get into it im ganna see the lifters spings rocker arms pushrods ect, i got bearings already.

arley

also if any one wants to talk about tuning, id like to hear about it, i seen programs for 600 ish that seem to be pretty on, also i see to get it tuned is like 400 to 600? is that right i cant find any one in my town that does tuning anyways. also with my mods are not that drastic, what do u guys think of this chip?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/390267981794...84.m1497.l2649

JET Performance Chips are for 1981-1995 cars, trucks and SUV's (see vehicle compatibility and item specific description for specific applications). These chips offer the most horsepower available - instantly adding up to 23 horsepower! Only JET provides exclusive, full range Dynamic Spectrum Tuning of the air/fuel ratio, ignition advance, transmission and many other parameters. Each is track and dyno tested to ensure top horsepower without effecting drivability or fuel economy. JET Performance Chips are simple to install, smog legal in 50 states and available in Stage 1 and 2.Stage 1 - This stage is for stock or mildly modified GM vehicles. Fuel and timing curves are modified using less expensive, lower octane fuels and programming is designed to burn fuel at peak efficiency, resulting in improved performance and optimal mileage. Daily drivers can use low-cost regular octane fuel for potential mileage gains, or mid-grade and better for optimal performance gains.

Stage 2 - Designed for GM performance enthusiasts, Stage 2 features more aggressive programming to ensure the most horsepower and torque available. Fuel and timing curves are extensively modified for peak performance and drivability. This stage requires the use of 91 octane fuel, a 180 degree thermostat and free flow exhaust. It will also work well with aftermarket intake systems, mass air sensors, TBI spacers, etc.
Any vehicle compatibility listed is for reference for OEM applications only, unless otherwise noted. If you have modified your vehicle in any way, compatibility may or may not work for your specific application. Specific item application(s) may or may not be limited to, or include all compatibilities listed. If you have any questions on fitment for your specific application, please contact us or the product manufacturer.

arley

http://www.ebay.com/itm/350589823655...84.m1423.l2649 these heads?

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

Focus on external mods like headers, exhaust, intake. These will make the largest difference without affecting the tune. As soon as you touch heads or cam the tune is going to become a problem.

The best budget heads seem to be the vortec heads. Though I don't know if they make a set that would keep your compression where it currently is.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

These heads are exactly what you already have. Be careful with this head buying business. You cant just go buy heads off a shelf and expect them to be an improvement because they're clean. 98 percent of smallblock chevy heads are meant for grocery vans and station wagons and work trucks, they are NOT performance oriented.

People will scam you over and over by taking junk heads, putting 2.02 intake valves in them ("202 heads") and cleaning them up and reselling them to you for massive profit. Those heads are generally melted down for scrap because tehy're so undesirable otherwise. Also, they throw terms like "pre-vortec" around a lot, this is horse excrement. The only heads worth bothering with on a 4 inch bore block are 113's, 083's, 906, and 062 heads. There are a few very rare heads mixed around that are arguably close to these, but you'll pay a lot more for those and the performance gains arent really there. In order from worst to best: 083, 113, 906 or 062. Since you have a 305 those will lower your compression ratio a lot. So you may want to stick with 081, 416 or 113 heads, but the problem is a 305 with a TBI on it is probably never gonig to hit even 300hp. Its just kindof a waste of money.



Dont port and polish 193's or the 187's you have. They flow TERRIBLE on the intake side, and the 193's will have largely identical flowrates but a lower compression ratio.

You need to look for some 113, 416, or 081 heads, make sure they pressure test okay, make sure valves are good and the valve seats are good and bolt them on if you really want to go through the trouble of a head swap. Anything short of the 113's is going to leave you disappointed. That's a lot of work for very little gain.

My advice to you, skip the heads and cam. Build another engine on the side. Build a 383 from a roller 350 block (Get an L31 core to save a bunch of cash, reuse the rods, get ARP bolts for them), put some 15cc dished hypereutectic pistons in it, throw the vortecs on it, and an XR282 camshaft. It will have 400hp and be relatively affordable and definitely streetable. It will be enough to blow up your transmission and rear differential.

In the meantime do the proven winner mods. Get some nice shorty headers (Hooker 2055 are decent), a 3 inch catback, and some 3.23 or 3.42 gears. Gears are everything. They iwll totally change the personality of the car.

Mystyk_Wynds

We'll I went through this on an another thread. No matter what he invests in, most of those parts are compatable with 350's. this includes, never mind here is the damn link.
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/engi...305-build.html

You'll notice I ranted, to make a point. READ IT!!!!

The purpose of forged internals is two fold. More durable sometimes lighter parts, and rpm capability. its basically insurance.

This whole 300hp. Even without touching the bottom end, you can get 300hp easily with descent heads, intake, cam, rockers, and valves. Now you combine these with what I said above (He asked for inexpensive bolt ons) I'll bet he'll lay down well over 300.

Now granted I dropped about $3500, but I had a 4.3 v6 Laying out 305hp 402ft/lbs Flywheel. One the benefits that helped was the fact that it has a 350 bore, so its easy to use large valves.

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

Sure thats no problem. I agree with the what some other members have posted. For right now on the budget do the intake and exhaust work first.

With a L69 style intake snorkle, high flow air filter, and TBI aftermarket intake manifold your car will really wake up then.

Also look in to some aftermarket headers for a single cat TPI car. These headers will have a 3 inch outlet y-pipe that will connect to a 3 inch cat and a 3 inch midpipe and the muffler of your choice depending upon what sound that you like. At the power level that you are at don't worry about mufflers that have 3 inch inlets and 2.5 inch outlets. I've got an L98 and that set up flows very well. The main point is that the muffler has a 3 inch inlet pipe and that will flow very well since there are 2 outlet pipes on most of mufflers produced for thirdgens.

Those minor intake and exhaust mods will really wake up your L03.

The next move would be to install 3.23 or 3.42 gears and a positraction unit in the rear end. That will really change the performance level from your stock 2.73's. They also won't affect your gas milieage that much either. If you went with 3.73's those would affect your gas milieage especially on the high way. Those kinds of steep gears (3.73's and up) are better suited to cars that have high-rpm-operation bands. Such as cars that have the short runner TPIS mini-ram intake on a small block motor. Those intakes perform very well on cars that want the powerband to extend to around the 6,500-7,000rpm mark. For a stock cast rotating assembly L03 you don't need to rev the motor that high. Even if you did it would be point less (thats out of your cars power band) and you would run the risk of breaking parts.

After that I would recommend getting the transmission rebuilt to perform better. I've got a Bowtie Overdrives transmission and I am very satisfied with it. High friction clutch materials, raised wide open throttle shift points, servos etc.

I would also get another torque converter as well. The stock converter really sucks at getting the motor in to the power band and letting the motor spin up faster as you accelerate. The stock converter for our cars is rated somewhere around 1600rpm stall speed I think. Something in the 2,200rpm-2,500rpm stall speed range would be a good match for the motor that you have and would really help the car perform better. I have a 2,400rpm stall in my car and I love it. My car really jumps of the line and goes right in to the power band and stays there while you accelerate even at moderate speeds.

You could also look in to getting an aluminum driveshaft. It will free up some horse power and they don't cost that much if you get a used on from a 3rd or 4th gen car.

All of those mods together will give you a really nice performing L03 and then you can decide what you want to do with the motor so far as the internal components. With the mods that I have mentioned here your motor should work well from off idle to around 5,500rpm.

Ron U.S.M.C.

yaj15 and I have close to the same advise as far as the order in which to do the mods.
"IMO" With a automatic 700r4 I would not go with any other gear ratio than 3.42. 3.73 is a little to much gear because of the short 1st gear in the auto.and anything less than the 3.42 is not enough.With all the work and money involved in the upgrade you want to use the next one down from the 3.73. You want to "feel" the change as much as possible with out going overboard.
As far as the transmission is concerned if the one you have is running fine don't replace it until in needs it. As I said earlier in stall the Corvette servo. and be done with it.Every time I drive my car it has nice sharp/hard shifts.You can definitely "feel" the gear changes grab. For street/strip I run the Eaton posi.,love it.
= http://www.jegs.com/i/Eaton/362/19599-010/10002/-1
I really like the way the stall converter is described by yaj15.
"When" its time to replace/rebuild my trans. I will definitely be installing a new/better one.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

I want to point out a few things.

1. They spent $5500 in 1990s money to get roughly 250-275fwhp. A roller cam vortec L31 350 long block with 250hp will cost you $1750 on jegs right now. Brand new. Probably with a warranty if you dont put a real cam in it. An LT4 hotcam will put you at 350ish and be way more streetable than the article's 305.

2. mw66nova built a 305 and the meat of it was the following:

shaved, pocket ported 416 heads for 10.2ish compression
big dual plane intake
280H cam (230/230, .480/.480)
Loose converter
4.10 gears

This 305 sounded wicked and did 12's.

3. They added a bunch of fancy badged air filters and motor oils and then did a lot of supporting mods. They did intake and exhaust from the headers back. THAT is what you need to focus on.

4. If you want a 300+ fwhp 305 that's easy to do, follow mw66nova's build with either 416's or 113's. It will require having the whole car built to support it (such as what they did in the article) and driving around something that most people probably wouldnt consider streetable.

5. If you want a streetable quick 305, get an LT4 hotcam and some 113 heads. That will get you where you need to be and both of those will be good on a 350 too if you want to go that route later. You still need to do exhaust and intake and headers etc if you bother with head and cam swaps. So do the basics first. Good luck trying to get the computer to run it though.

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

Ha ha I sure hope we havent confused arley with all the information we have given him the past few days.

The point is that with the 305, it still can be made to perform well. And yes I know that I have a 350 in my car but, I'm not going to bad mouth a GM small block V8. There are positives and negatives about each motor we are dealing with here (305's and 350's) in stock form.

The good news is that with a smart, well thought out plan the 305 can be made to perform very well. As others have said, many of the speed parts that you would install in a 305 can be transfered to a 350 motor at a later date if thats the path that you choose to take.

Your car already is set up for a V8 and you have a working 305 motor that is in good shape provided the rebuilt was performed well. Nothing wrong with working with what you already have and learning from that. That's really what is important here. Once you learn how to pick parts and find out what works to your satisfaction the sky (and your budget) become the real the limiting factors.

I'm just glad that you have a Camaro to start with and not an import! I see so many folks that are younger than me (I'm almost 30) and they drool over imports! Nothing wrong with that but most small block chevys with minimal mods in a chassis that is well set up for road handling like our thirdgens can easily embarass those kinds of cars while not breaking a sweat.

Believe me its a lot of fun to have a 20+ year old American car that can embarass newer cars. Your's would be more of a sleeaper with your modified L03 305 especially if you kept your stock 16 inch wheels and stock body parts for your Camaro RS.

Ha ha and besides nobody (even us thirdgen fans) would expect a stock looking L03 Camaro RS to have a lot of speed parts installed that would really wake it up if we just took a casual non-detailed look at the car. That would be a lot of fun!

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

Yes a converter for our cars will really wake them up. I'm in the process of getting parts together to rebuilt my Borg Warner 9bolt rear. I'm going to change my rear end gears from the current 2.77 ratio to 3.27's. With my car the best mods were when I got the motor rebuilt, the headers, and the aftermarket trans and converter.

The fresh motor was very nice and performed much better with my Hooker headers. The converter was the best drivetrain mod that I have performed yet even though I'm still running the 2.77 rear end gears. It drives stock (a little smoother at low speeds like in traffic or in a parking lot) but when you go say 50%-75% of throttle the motor really wakes up and jumps in the torque band the entire time that your foot is down. With my TPI motor the car is in the fattest part of the torque band between 3,000rpm-3,500rpm. When I want to get off the line quick I just leave at idle. When the light changes I drop the throttle enough to get the car to start moving and avoid wheel spin then I press the throttle enough to get the motor spun up to around 3,500rpm while accelerating in first gear and just leave my foot down until I want to slow the rate of acceleration and the transmission takes care of the rest. Ha ha no mess, no fuss, just good strong acceleration.

When you floor it and do red-line shifts (I've got my car set up to do full throttle upshifts at 5,500rpm) the motor spools up in the power band faster and there is less gear drop off after each shift. So the motor stays in the power band even with the wide gear ratio differences between the gears in the 700r4 trans. (first gear = 3.06, second gear = 1.62, third gear = 1.00, fourth gear = 0.70)


Ronusmc I saw the rear end build that you posted as well. That was a very good build and it sounds like you are very pleased with your results. I'm glad you mentioned that too, some of the 1988-1989 IROC's got the L03 motor as well so its good that you can tell us some real world performance gains that you got on your car as well. I agree with what you said to. For most of our cars 3.23's or 3.42's are as deep as you need to go. Even with the TPI cars the steepest factory gear ratio that was offered was 3.42. From the factory you had to get an L69 or LG4 car to have the chance to get 3.73's as an option from the factory.

The good news for arley is that he has the GM 10bolt rear. It's not a strong as the Borg Warner rear but it can be built up to take a good amount of power as well. At least GM made so many of them that so long as the housing is straight and can be re-used all the internal parts for the rear end can easily by obtained from the aftermarket. Also with the modified L03 305 we are dealing with here breaking the 10bolt rear shouldn't be an issue.

arley

i am caling a guy tomarro to set up the 3.42 with my 2.72 carier, also i ordered the servo, what do u think about the

Thirdgen89GTA

iTrader: (5)

NOOOOOO No B&M shiftkits!

TransGo or NOTHING. Nothing else is worth the effort. The B&M kit only raises line pressure, it doesn't fix the sloppy stock programming in the valve body.

You want to contact sales support here and be honest about your goals. https://www.700r4l60e.com/store/home.php?cat=65

______________________

Your Grand is rapidly disappearing, you are branching out in too many directions for only $1000. You need to focus on an area you want to better.

Honestly. Do a solid tune-up on the car, do the Free Mods, headers, exhaust, and basic intake mods. This will make you happier overall. It will also consume MOST of your $1000.

arley

LOL yea thats my goal there is a picture of a camaro on hawks that id darler red and has the double cowl hood, that is what i told my body gy i want tis january, but yea i like my 16 wheel i want to keep it original with a few modern external parts like the double cowl hood, and some hid headlights but besides that i want that car i dreamed of sence i was 5 years old, im 33 and i cant stand that lil civic that squaks every frigin gear going down my street. i want to humble that guy next spring. lol. also i desided to go the 383 rought and be rausch EATER! so i gatta get to 450 hp lol but that wont be till two winters. this winter the the 305 upgrades under a grand, a paint job and the hood. next winter the suspension and the new 383 . defently ganna be fun to do. as far as confusing yes, but i look everything up and i am learning, sadly more then i do in my university classes lol. so once again i thabk u guys all of u and keep it comming, im ganna post my parts before i get them and tht is an invite for all opinions, Brian (arley)

arley

Also can u manually tune the 91 timing ect? i read in my book with a timing light and a srewdriver u can set stuff, but the book cover 82-92. so any back yard tuners please let me know what u use. I found a bdm 100 tuner , i looked at tuning prises and it alot! 300-1000, so yea i want to be a back yard tuner. but that info is not easy to find. any good treads on here?

arley

yea the car came with hooker shortes and a 3 inch exaust system , pretty new looking, sounds GREAT! so i got that covered. but yea im ganna take your advice and do the 383, but i want parts that will switch over, so thank u for the parts, but i wont be able to get the engine done till next year this year is a paint job , we know what them cost, and the heads. but till then i want to do the 3.42 rear end tbi plate and spacers, the vette servo, a b&m shifter kit, and the jet stage two chip, then i park it in november and then i want to do the cam heads ect, when i can pull the engine and and get in there and take my time knowing we have snow here from december till march. again i thank u Brian

arley

well im glad i asked! ok let me check out that sight, i love driving the car using 1st 2nd then d, but my first is ruff so i usually just go in 2nd, so i want to find something that makes it smoth. u think i should stick with the servo, and the 3.42 then the intake mods. i gatta remind myself i will only be driving this for 2 more months then its off the raod till mid march.

arley

wow nice sight ! (pro built auto) thanks for sharing!

Marine_Marauder

An edelbrock intake is no way to shave weight off your car. It's heavy as a brick s**thouse. I did a custom ram air box, K&N's, the 58mm throttle body, ported plenum, SLP runners and high flow base on my 90 vette and didn't get much in return. It had a little more pull for a few hundred extra RPM's, but overall it wasn't worth the $1000 or so for the parts (Installation is hundreds more if you don't do it yourself)

Corrected the rest of my post- Should have paid attention, he's got a 305

Buy a crate motor.

Dakota W.

Might as well go buy a wrecked 93-2002 camaro as a donor car, a few grand for A LOT more goodies.

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

Ha ha yeah I understand. Don't use B&M. One of the other members was correct when they said that all the B&M kit does is raise the line pressure of the trans to really high levels. The problem is the rest of the components in the trans are not meant to take that kind of abuse (as they were not designed for that much line pressure to start with), espeically if your 700r4 is stock. The bands, clutches, and servo will be screaming and so will you.

The shift firmness should increase the further you press the throttle down. Some companies call it linearly progressive. I had a Hughes Performance Transmission and they are about the same as B&M. The full thorottle shifts are firm, and thats ok. At at regular driving speeds though the shifts are bone cracking harsh. Driving around in the parking lot or even at regular street speeds (below 40mph) and very light throttle the trans shifted like the one I have now does at full throttle. That gets old quick and tears up other parts in the driveline.

Also stay away from TCI. They are another company that has a lot of unsatisfied customers.

I like Bowtie Overdrives. Another member posted a link on here to Pro-built automatics. Those are both very good companies with good reputations and well made products.

yaj15

iTrader: (3)

Stay away from B&M. Look at the other post I made in this thread as well as what Thirdgen89GTA said about B&M.

All that kit does is raise the line pressure in the transmission to high levels that the stock trans was not designed for. The result is bone cracking shifts at all speeds and all throttle positions. This gets old fast and you will also tear up parts in the rest of your drivetrain before too long.

I know that you said that the motor had been rebuilt about 40,000 miles ago so it's still relatively "new". What about the transmission - how many miles does it have one it? Do you know the service history of that transmission?

With the age of our cars now the newest original 700r4 is now 20 years old. Even with a low mileage original car seals are going to be hardened up as well as other things due to the effects of time. If the your trans is in good working order do some minor mods but you may want to really consider getting it rebuilt at some point to your specs for your specific goals. A fresh trans will also help you get the most out of the other performance mods that you are going to make.

Trans-go is a very good company to deal with in terms of minor mods like shift kits and servos. I think that Pro-Built Automatics uses some of there products in their transmissions as well but, I'm not 100% sure on that. Trans-go makes good kits that are linearly progressive in terms of the throttle (the deeper you get in to the throttle and the higher the engine speed the trans firms up the line pressure and firms up the shifts accordingly) and they don't stress the stock trans too much. Check out the link.

http://transgoonline.com/products.ph...6&parent_id=96

Mystyk_Wynds

I will agree with the whole $1000 on a tpi and not gain much.You won't. Tpis' rely on to many factors. Primarily pressure. The main problem is that all the ppl trying to tune them, are applying conventional means to an unconventional motor and doing so without full understanding of the science and math involved.
I had said before in one of my posts, that you will almost always get more power and torque out of a car or tbi set up than a tpi. So its best to stick with a carb or tbi if that is what you have. I mean I built a tbi 4.3L v6 putting out 305 hp and 410ft/lbs for $3500. Gm goodwrench got with Nascar and built one with around 450hp.
What does baffle me, is how these imports without turbos, are making the kind of power they are with TPI AT the rpm ranges they are???? Of course I have figured it out to some degree, but even I keep that a secret.

InfernalVortex

iTrader: (4)

Variable valve timing, tuned runner length, tuned exhaust, less friction. They're just more efficient. Modern v8s are way more efficient too, but ours are not...


And I agree that the TBI is a better system than the TPI in theory, but the problem is theres ZERO aftermarket support for them. Ive NEVER heard of a GM v8 TBI car hitting more than about 300hp.

robertfrank

iTrader: (27)

Well being as I have built one of these cars and it has performed pretty well my advice is to just get the car in tip top running condition and start from there. I have alot of good info on my cardomain but I do need to update it. It should help to get you started. In a nutshell start from the REAR of the car and work your way FORWARD. Do it in this order....

Gears w/ a GOOD posi
Transgo shift kit with a good stall,just remember to match the stall to your cam and gears
Exhaust, Good set of headers with a MANDREL bent 3 inch single exhaust. I recommend the Hooker aerochamber
Do your chassis/suspension!! power means NOTHING if it doesn't touch the ground
Tuning, get a handle on it now before you touch anything in the engine. It will make it much easier in the long run.

then start diggin into the engine. Like IV said go with a better set of heads. In stock form the 187's are garbage but with a little port work they're not terrible but you'll be better off just switching them out.