has anyone used pst's polygraphite front end kit they are advertised in CAR CRAFT on the back page all the time i was wondering if any one has and how good they are

 

yeah! Id like to know too. I was going to get the kit. I thind for around $159.00. What does the kit include.


MY car has about 180,000 miles on the suspension, I need a rebuild.

 

The kit includes all bushings (a-arm bushings, sway bar end-links, sway bar bushings, ball joints, etc). The only thing you will have to re-use are the sway bar bushing brackets. These are not included in the 82-92 package. Be sure to measure the diameter of your front sway bar before ordering. I like mine so far. No complaints.

 

The $159 is not for a complete front end. It does not have the idler arm, center link or inner tie rod ends. They are available sepertly. I have all of it and installed at the same time. Recommended.

 

I also did my whole front setup this summer by myself and it made a HUGE difference. I got the PST front end kit and also changed the idler arm and center link and tie rod sleeves (inner rods were fine just dirty). This mod was well worth the money but I wouldent have had someone else do it when the parts are only around 220 and it took a week. I also learned alot and got a chance to clean up everything under there.

I love getting all the compliments when I go for tires or alingnments the techs always say "Damn that front end is clean!"

 

I'm interested in the front control arm kit. Is anyone experiencing squeaks and/or moans?

JamesC

 

PST components are made in Taiwan, and I'd call them inferior. Try Performance Suspension Components instead, at http://www.performancesuspension.com/

 

have you used them? or are you just trying to support US companies?

 

We have local club members that have used PST components (specifically tie rod ends and idler arm) and were sorry. I recommend MOOG tie rod ends, center link, idler arm. Also recommend Poly-Graphite Energy Suspension bushings. I bought the bushings from PSC in AZ. Use the link Kevin supplied or call 800-572-3768. Lon

 

well thats good at least you gave an example of personal experience lon. I did use moog steering components (idler and center link) but everything else is PST.

 

Hey, Lon and Kevin,

I'm very interested in replacing my front control arm bushings, but I want to avoid squeaks and moans. Any problems in that regard with the poly-graphite you mention?

JamesC

 

No problems with either. But I took special steps to avoid them. There is a special grease available for the bushings that is rather sticky. The purpose of it being sticky is to prevent it from being washed out or oozing out as easily as the less viscous greases. Check out Steve Spohn's web site, he sells the grease. I took a different route. My rear sway bar bushings came with a grease fitting mounted to the bushing retainer shell. There isn't a greasable version available for the 34mm front sway bar I'm using. So I modified the stock bushing retainer shells to be greasable. It isn't that difficult. You need a Dremel tool, drill & tap. I drilled and tapped the retainer shell for a zerk fitting I picked up at the auto parts store. Then I drilled through the ES polygraphite bushing in the same location all the way to the center. Then I used a thin abrasive metal cutting blade in the Dremel and cut 3 lines all the way around the bushing both on the outside and the inside of it. I unfolded it and mounted it in my bench vise to cut the inside lines. Then I cut an "X" from the hole so grease would flow from the hole to each of the channels I'd cut. Now when it's oil change time I include lubricating these along with the other 18 or so grease fittings (stock was 9 fittings, I've added more than a few). I also installed grease-fitting covers that have a tether onto each fitting to keep the fitting clean from road debris between lube jobs. FYI, I now sell packs of 10 of these grease-fitting covers. E-mail me in interested. If you take the correct steps as I have they won't squeak. I hadn't thought of it before, but I wonder if there would be a market for this modification to the bushing & bushing retainer? Good luck, Lon.

 

just a while back, i decided that it was time for a suspension rebuild and completed the rebuild using PST's bushings. i did just about everything that was bolt on except for the torque arm and SFC's.

i purchased the bushings, swaybar (front and rear), and front end kit (center link, idler arm, tie rods, etc.). i also replaced LCA (edelbrock) and panhard rod (lakewood). the only part of the rebuild that i was not able to complete on my own was the front end bushings on the lower a-arm. i had to take those to a machine shop and pressed in. other than that, i am happy to report a dramatic change and feel in the car.

switching lanes at high speeds is utterly addicting and so it taking turns like C5 corvettes doing 55+mph. response is excellent.

**keep in mind that i lowered my car, as well as taken driving lessons at a controlled environment; be careful and safe!**

 

I too bought the PSC kit..make sure you specify the correct size sway bar bushings. They sent me 32mm, even though I specified 1988 formula WS6 which I later found out is 36mm. Tech at PSC informed me they don't make a 36mm and I should try to sand out the 32mm. Might give it a shot. Also the lower stops, the ones that are supposed to stop you from bottoming out are alot smaller than the ones on my car. Tech said that should not be a problem.

Aside from them also sending me the wrong tie rod ends initially...the improvement sounds worthwhile. I'll find out after I get my car back together.

 

I have the Firebird WS6 front sway bar and used the 32 mm bushing with no modification whatsoever. Just peel it open, slip it on and put the bushing retainer back over it.

 

I tried slipping the 32mm bushing over the 36mm swaybar and found quite a gap where the slit is. I know the WS6 also had a 34mm sway bar prior to 88. Wish I could get it to fit without modifying it.

 

Hey Martyr, I purchased a P-S-T kit and got all the right parts the first time. As far as the durability concerns I autocross my Z and drive it hard on the street the car has at least 10 autocroses on it since installation. Three of which were at lots that resembled washboards, and one lot had hills that turned into jumps when at speed. All this and no failures. So I will say I disagree with breaking problems.

 

I'm rebuilding my front with stock, rubber parts because of squeaking. I rebuilt my '74 El Camino with PST's poly kit and do regret it.

They sent some of the wrong bushings and were none to helpful in correcting that. The "Taiwan factor" is there, too. The quality of the rod ends and ball joints was suspect. And after all was said and done, even with liberal application of the "special grease", the front end now creaks. It won't at first, but eventually, I suspect it will.

Even if you decide to go the urethane route, use PSC, instead. You'll get competitive prices and domestic, name-brand parts. I used them for my tie rod ends, center link, and idler arm on the IROC.

 

I did whole front end/rear sway. It was closer to $300 for the set up. The goo they send helps for squeaking and a little white lithim grease does the rest. As for the sway mounts 5 min with a barrel sander on a Dremal and they where 37(?)mm whatever they fit. I had them on for over a year now and the car is as tight as a date prom night! I did have to call them 3 times to get a catalog to order from.

 

which would be better moog or pst.

 

Just another good reason for me to buy a Dremal. Thanks for the solution.

 

i went with performance suspension instead. paid roound 250 for the whole front end rebuild- tie rods, sleeves, etc...blah blah...i HIGHLY recommend it.

out with the old

YUCK

in with the new...

NICE



the steering feels alot tighter and i enjoy quick lane changes. now that theres a coniderable difference it handles close to a C5. turning feels like a dream.